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The Black Manhattan is like a Manhattan, but more. It amplifies the vigor of a standard Manhattan cocktail—not exactly a timid creation—and supercharges it. If a regular Manhattan is a melody played on a piano, then a Black Manhattan is that melody but on a pipe organ—required for its ample, resonating chords of flavor that cover every available space.

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Most Manhattan variations follow a simple template: You take the standard recipe for the Manhattan (2 oz. whiskey, 1 oz. sweet vermouth, 2 dashes bitters), and reduce the vermouth by half and accent it with a small pour of some other liqueur. There are lots of these: Use Cynar and it’s a Little Italy; Maraschino and it’s a Red Hook; Benedictine for a Fort Point; you can go on and on. The Black Manhattan does not follow this rule, because when Todd Smith thought up the cocktail in 2005, the rule hadn’t been invented yet.

Well, 2005 wasn’t that long ago, but in mixology terms, it’s practically a lifetime. All the templates and cocktail families and best practices that everyone now knows and takes for granted were, at the beginning of George W. Bush’s second term, still being formed. What this means for the Black Manhattan is not only that it is a Manhattan in which the sweet vermouth is not reduced but fully supplanted with an ounce of the Italian bittersweet liqueur, Averna (the aforementioned rule-breaking) but also, it means that the online recipes are kinda all over the place, because the conception of a Manhattan in 2005 was different to what it is today.

Todd Smith is celebrated in the cocktail world for his creation, the Black Manhattan. Smith’s invention came while he was employed at a San Francisco restaurant, Cortez. The cocktail began gaining substantial attention when Smith paved his way in the hospitality business and launched the well-known Bourbon & Branch. During the time of its inception, rye whiskey was not a typical ingredient used, as Smith quipped, indicating the sheer popularity of bourbon over rye.

The appeal of the Black Manhattan recipe comes from the unique mix, which featured homemade bitters, an often overlooked part of cocktail making. The signature drink was a blend of bourbon, Averna, and a touch of cherry coffee bitters made in-house. As tastes evolved, and rye whiskey saw a resurgence in popularity, the Black Manhattan recipe adapted too. The constant between these versions is the inclusion of Averna, but online recipes vary from the original. Some include bourbon or rye, and variations of bitters such as Angostura, orange, or sometimes both.

The beauty of the Black Manhattan is each version could stake a claim for the best due to the cocktail’s naturally robust flavor. After taste-testing every recipe available, it was challenging to settle on a preferred choice. Similar to the Revolver cocktail, also credited to Bourbon & Branch, the Black Manhattan is flexible and can withstand variations. Its success and longevity can be attributed to the seamless blending of Averna, tasting richer and fuller than the sweet vermouth typically used in a Manhattan, yet still working harmoniously within the recipe. The Black Manhattan retains the beloved original flavors, but with an increased coffee, cocoa, and cola hint.

An example of a prominent recipe includes 2 oz. of rye whiskey.

1 oz. sweet vermouth

2 dashes Angostura Bitters

Add all ingredients to a mixing glass with ice and stir for 10 to 15 seconds (on small ice) or 20 to 30 seconds (on big ice). Strain up into a coupe or cocktail glass, and garnish with a cherry.

NOTES ON INGREDIENTS

Whiskey: This is a remarkable choice regardless of the kind. It works superbly with both Kentucky-style ryes and Canadian-style ryes. Moreover, it pairs exceptionally well with bourbon. My recent experience with Bulleit Whiskey’s new American Single Malt was splendid, featuring vibrant fruit undertones and enticing spice. However, I am still partial to a good rye. When it comes to choosing the style, I am at a deadlock. A higher proof Kentucky rye like Rittenhouse or Wild Turkey 101 results in a robust cocktail that can balance the depth of the Averna. If you opt for an all or mostly rye bottle like Dickel Rye or Redemption, the resulting herbaceousness and spice from the grains are charming. There is no right or wrong choice; just follow your preference.

Averna: This is a type of “amaro”, an Italian liqueur that is both bitter and sweet in taste. It is typically consumed either as an aperitivo, to stimulate the appetite, or a digestivo, for aiding in digestion, based on the alcohol volume. Among the many hundreds of amari brands, Averna remains a top-tier choice. This digestif, which has an alcohol volume of 29 percent, has been produced in Sicily since 1868 and is a requisite for a Black Manhattan.

Allow me to clarify: While some Black Manhattan recipes may suggest using other amari, this would alter the true nature of the cocktail. It’s feasible to partly replace the vermouth with a different amaro, but only Averna has proven successful as a complete substitute for vermouth in my experience.

The amount of Averna utilised depends on your choice of whiskey. For a potent rye whiskey, stick with the indicated full ounce. However, if you opt for a bourbon (which tends to have a sweeter profile than rye) or a rye with a proof of 90 or lower, you may want to reduce the Averna to 0.75 oz., or even down to a 0.5 oz. based on your taste preference.

Bitters: It’s a mystery to me how orange bitters found their place in this beverage. Not that its bad, but it doesn’t enhance the drink either. I believe a few dashes of Angostura is all you need.

In contrast, when Smith departed from Bourbon & Branch, the team substituted his unique cherry coffee bitters with Fee Brothers Barrel Aged Old Fashioned Bitters as soon as their stock depleted. This change accentuated the flavors of baking spice in the drink. I, personally, haven’t had the chance to verify this yet. However, an old Bourbon & Branch bartender swears by this method and claims it’s the ideal way to make this drink. Therefore, consider his opinion for its worth.

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