As the whiskey industry in Ireland continues to grow and diversify, so too does the interest in its potential culinary applications. With over 40 distilleries currently experimenting with different methods of distillation, blending, and cask styles, whiskey’s role in food pairing has become even more intriguing. The American market is also seeing a surge in demand for high-quality sipping whiskies, aside from the ever-popular Jameson’s. It has been said that the triple distillation process used in many of Ireland’s whiskies produces a smooth, easily palatable style that lends itself well to the culinary arts. Below are the insights and anecdotal experiences of some of the country’s leading chefs and distillers on this topic.
Damien Grey, who is the head chef at The Liath in Dublin, says
Grey and the team at the two-Michelin-starred The Liath have fully embraced the potential of Irish whiskey, viewing it not just an important aspect of Ireland’s history, but also as a crucial ingredient in what Grey calls “a new expression of Irish cuisine.” This new cuisine showcases unique ingredients sourced from all over Ireland. At The Liath, the dining experience often starts with their own spin on a whiskey sour, which is served as part of a dish called Tuś. In Gaelic, Tuś means “beginning” or “start,” and the dish aims to introduce diners to the five key taste characteristics: bitter, sour, salty, umami, and sweet. It’s not your typical whiskey sour, though. “We use a 10-year-old cask-strength Irish whiskey from Egan’s, which has been aged in American oak. The whiskey is then served as a jello shot,” explains Grey.
Grey, who spent his early years in Australia, insists that when incorporating Irish whiskey into dishes, it’s important to pay more attention to the secondary and tertiary flavors instead of the primary ones. Using this approach, various subtle flavors can be captured and paired. For instance, Grey finds that peated whiskey pairs well with chocolate, cheese, and cured meats; while lighter whiskey styles tend to go well with fish and white meats dishes. One of his favorite combinations is L’Etivaz cheese with smoked beer onions, kale, olive oil, dried leeks, paired with a 23-year-old single malt that has been aged in a Brunello di Montalcino 2014 barrel. “This pairing is truly special. To fully appreciate it, one must first understand the intricacies of the whiskey. But once that bond is made, the resulting experience is nothing short of breathtaking,” Grey affirms.
One of the delightful offerings at The Liath, which underwent a transformation during the Covid lockdown, sealing a contemporary look and winning a second star in 2022, is an authentic pairing of a peaty Irish whiskey with chocolate. “We conclude the menu with five confections profiled into the five basic tastes. The Umami taste is embodied by chocolate truffles, for which we use the Egan’s Endeavour, a triple distilled single malt of cask strength.” This whiskey seized Double Gold at the 2023 San Francisco Wine and Spirits Awards and is employed to enrich the dessert with the stark and earthy savoury tones; capturing the real essence of Ireland and its modern cuisine that is deeply rooted in its history.
Pattrick Guilbaud
Over the last 40 years at the helm of Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud, Patrick Guilbaud has witnessed a significant evolution in Ireland’s dining scene. He brought the classic French culinary art to Dublin in 1981, earned a star in 1989, and another in 1996. He recalls the initial struggle when many couldn’t comprehend their unique approach, but over the years, through changing gastronomic trends, the restaurant persists in upholding its two stars in its majestic Georgian townhouse adjacent to the five-star Merrion Hotel.
Today, the restaurant takes pride in its product-led approach, celebrating local ingredients, including whiskey. As a Frenchman, Patrick has a special liking for farmyard cheeses and considers them as an integral part of the escalating whiskey choices. Patrick recommends, ‘a delicious way to conclude your meal could be a flavorful pairing of a creamy blue cheese like Cashel Blue or Young Buck, with a gentle whiskey finished in a sherry cask, such as Yellow Spot 12 Year Old or Bushmills 10 Year Old.’
Another Guilbaud favourite is richly flavoured barbecue alongside rich sauces. For this, a lightly pleated Connamaragh whiskey ticks the boxes. “Its full flavours enhance the smoky aspects of the savoury, barbecued meats”. Deserts provide a strong opportunity to play with a whiskey pairing (you’ll note the recurring theme throughout) and he “loves pairing the restaurant’s contemporary dark chocolate tart with bourbon vanilla ice cream and a Teeling Brabazon whiskey, “which really accentuates the chocolate with nice oaky notes.”
John Kelly of the Lady Helen Restaurant at Mount Juliet Estate
The Mount Juliet Estate houses John Kelly at the Lady Helen where he has served outstanding modern Irish cuisine in a 260-year-old country manor since he joined in 2011. Kelly was raised in Kilkenny, and went on to train under Patrick Gilbaud in Dublin, before returning to his origins and earning a Michelin star in 2013.
He draws his inspiration for the menus from seasonality and the availability of quality local produce, preferring to focus on a small number of ingredients. “We source high end products and we add one or two items to the plate, and that’s it. If you use more than that you dilute the ingredient, and also create confusion for the chef and customer.” Kelly believes the essence and taste will be lost in over complication. “Our motto at the Lady Helen is ‘keep it simple and do it well’”. As such, he’s more cautious on the involvement of whiskey in his menus, but is happy to experiment and push the boundaries when it makes sense.
Despite the whiskey industry’s interest in experimenting with food pairings, Kelly shares that whiskey isn’t typically seen as a pairing beverage due to its nature. Nonetheless, whiskey’s unique flavor spectrum and aroma notes can result in strongly-flavored whiskeys that finely complement meat and game dishes. While whiskey traditionally acts as a digestif, Kelly suggests that the diversity and adaptability of Irish whiskey can be utilized to curate unique culinary creations.
With a focus on harmony and pureness in his creations, Kelly places immense importance on every ingredient chosen. A recent dish suggestion incorporated the delicate tones of Waterford Whiskey Sheestown Kilkenny Single Farm Edition, innovating a usual St. Patrick’s Day menu item. He shared, “Substituting the conventional lamb with Irish venison in a traditional Irish Stew and bolstering it with a rich berry like the blackcurrant creates an amazing match with the whiskey, adding depth and a subtle sweetness.”
Renowned Chef and Terre Founder Vincent Crepel,
Originating from the Pyrenees, Vincent Crepel moved to Spain’s Basque region, where he started his career as a chef de partie at the three-Michelin star Arzak in San Sebastián. He gained additional culinary expertise in Singapore under the guidance of André Chiang. His experiences abroad influenced his cooking style, and today, he is celebrated for his fusion of contemporary French cuisine with Asian influences in Ireland.
Crepel earned his inaugural Michelin star mere months post launching Terre, aligning his approach as ingredient-centric. Nestled within the Manor House of the Castlemartyr resort, the restaurant’s menu is deeply influenced by Crepel’s profound appreciation for locally sourced produce. “The emerald fields of Ireland and its majestic coastline captivated me from the outset, solidifying a bond with this land and its occupants.” Indeed, establishing in Cork almost necessitates the endorsement of Irish Whiskey, especially given its proximity to Middleton distillery, a world-renowned name.
He imparts a smoky undertone to the caviar with Red Breast Barrels handpicked from Midleton, amalgamating the strong, smoky essence of the barrel with the rich, unique notes of Kristal caviar, raising the taste to unprecedented peaks. “Caviar, owing to its supreme quality, is difficult to enhance. Consequently, instead of smoking it directly, which might impact its fine texture, we envelop our caviar in kelp that has previously been smoked in Red Breast whiskey barrels, imparting an additional flavour layer to the caviar, transforming it into an exclusive and extraordinary dish for us.”
Mickael Viljanen
Landing in Ireland in 2000, Mickael Viljanen first worked at the Tannery prior to a five-year tenure at Gregan’s Castle. Following his move to the Greenhouse in 2012, he bagged his maiden Michelin star in 2015, adding another star to his portfolio in 2019. His dream to venture on his own became a reality in the shape of a business collaboration with Ross Lewis, the veteran owner of Chapter One, who has since then withdrawn from culinary responsibilities, welcoming Viljanen to take his place.
The restaurant, situated on the northern bank of the River Liffey, features a private dining area known as the Middletown Room, paying homage to Jameson’s premier offering. This room contains the only collection in the world of every Midleton vintage for glass sampling. Fittingly, the restaurant, Chapter One, is in the former home of a Jameson’s distiller, imbuing it with a rich whiskey heritage.
While the tasting menu doesn’t emphasize pairings, Chef Viljanen acknowledges the frequent use of whiskey in their dishes. “Whiskey often features in our sweets and small pastries, particularly in various forms with strong caramel notes, often complemented with chocolate,” says Viljanen. The main dishes are no exception, with whiskey often paired with seasonal game, used in marinades and sauces, especially with hare and grouse. A notable whiskey moment at Chapter One is the arrival of the coffee cart. “The presentation of our Irish coffee trolley, where we flambe the drinks tableside using Jamesons, is a special highlight.
Sommelier Scott White, known for his work at Michelin-starred D’Olier Street, honed his skills at the respected Aimsir in County Kildare. According to White, Irish whiskey traditionally features delightful notes of orchard fruits, caramelized apple, and quince, topped off with the spice notes from American oak, which lends hints of toasty hay and toffee. His preferred pairing is Middleton Very Rare 2023 served with aged beef tartare, garnished with raw button mushrooms, sweet pickled onions, beef fat potato crisps, cep powder, and truffle. This combination enhances the earthy tones of both the food and the whiskey. “The pairing enhances and mellows the oak and the rich orchard fruits, matching the richness of the beef and potato,” shares White.
When discussing McConnell’s 5 year sherry finish, Barry Mageean from McConnell’s Distillery Operations in Belfast describes the whiskey as being filled with festive fruit flavors and a notably distinct vanilla musk. He suggests that it is the perfect drink for the colder months as it is both enjoyable and satisfying. He also enjoys combining this whiskey with desert and whiskey soaked pear on crushed meringue, stating that macerating pears in the sherry cask finish enhances the winter fruit notes in the whiskey, making the pair complementary, vibrant, and comforting.
Mark Newton, head of brand at the Waterford Distillery, suggests a classic chessboard paired with ‘The Cuvée’ as their favorite menu pairing. This drink is a blend of 25 Waterford single malts, with each originating from a separate farm, enhancing its complexity. This combination works incredibly well due to the whiskey’s barley-forward profile, the enticing aromas of an artisan bakery, and its exquisite mouthfeel. The distillery also recommends their organic whiskey, ‘Gaia’, which pairs nicely with smoked Gubbean from County Cork. This pairing is favorable as the whiskey offers delicious notes of roasted hazelnut that contrasts perfectly with the smoked cheese.
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