Scottish distillery Port Ellen is making it easier for whiskey lovers to understand the chemical composition of their favorite drink.
As visitors to a legendary distillery in Scotland savor whiskey samples at the end of their tour, they’ll not only taste and whiff the spirits. They’ll see what’s inside of them, thanks to a wall-size projection of machine-generated digital art based on the drinks’ complex chemical signatures.
The art, called “Out of the Ether,” looks like a hypnotic puff of gold, white and gray smoke and clouds swirling and bubbling inside a giant glass marble. In fact, it’s a visualization of two rare whiskies based on their flavor and aroma profiles.
This spirited creation celebrates whiskey’s chemical complexity.
Whiskey producers often resort to scientific techniques such as gas chromatography and high-speed liquid chromatography to analyze their products. These processes separate and analyze various compounds present in the whiskey. However, the data representation in the form of peaks and dips on a graph is not exactly decipherable for the average whiskey drinker.
This is where “Out of the Ether” comes into play.
“Our goal was to simplify what was previously understood only by an organic chemist or a whiskey enthusiast,” explains Ewan Morgan, national luxury ambassador and head of whiskey outreach at Diageo. “With just a look, you can understand the unique character of the distillery and the whiskey.”
The distillery in question is Port Ellen, situated on the rugged isle of Islay off the West Coast of Scotland. Islay, famous as “Whisky Island,” has the highest number of distilleries per head in the UK. It is renowned for its whiskeys laced with a smoky flavor that stems from peat.
Diageo’s machine-generated visualization is based on data points on the chemical profiles of two Port Ellen whiskeys.
Port Ellen Distillery opened in 1825 and exported whiskey to North America as early as 1848. It closed down 40 years ago, one of a slew of Scottish “ghost” distilleries forced to shutter in the late 1970s and early 1980s as production of single malt Scotch whiskey outstripped demand.
Port Ellen reopened last week, remodeled and now owned by Diageo, the company behind brands including Johnnie Walker, Guinness, Smirnoff and Tanqueray that has invested $236 million to invigorate Scotch whiskey distilleries and tourism. Aimée Robinson, Port Ellen’s master blender, says the kinetic “Out of the Ether” art is part of the distillery’s long-term mission to chart the “atlas of smoke” in hopes of better understanding its nuances and mysteries.
To mark Port Ellen’s rebirth, the distillery is releasing two limited-edition whiskies, Port Ellen Gemini Original and Port Ellen Gemini Remnant, both of which come from 1978 European oak casks. One is a “remnant cask” that was saved by a Port Ellen employee when the distillery closed in 1983. He stored it at the Lagavulin Distillery where he went on to work.
The type of wood from which a cask is crafted, its seasoning process, and even its size and shape can significantly influence the flavor of whiskey. A leftover cask might still contain the remnants of some of the most historic whiskies from Port Ellen.
Over the last couple of years, Diageo has been employing a bespoke algorithm called SmokeDNAi. This innovative piece of tech has been used to supervise the concurrent maturation journeys of the Gemini whiskeys. It helps to demystify the intricate chemical evolution of spirits that originated similarly but matured in varying casks.
Morgan notes that both whiskies are Port Ellen, yet they resemble two significantly different whiskies.
The algorithm handled thousands of data points from both spirits. It compiled and structured information on their primary 10 compounds. Some of these include vanillin, which imparts a vanilla aroma, phenol, which gives a medicinal scent, tannins that induce astringency and bitterness, and translactone, known for releasing a creamy coconut flavor. Following this, the data was used to produce a visualization based on parameters provided by human input.
A graphic overlaying the art shows the percentile breakdown of the whiskeys’ primary compounds, and details how each one influences their character.
Aimée Robinson, Port Ellen’s master blender, looks at data on the whiskeys’ chemical makeup alongside an artistic interpretation of it.
The SmokeDNAi algorithm, developed in collaboration with data and design studio Bose Collins, could help Port Ellen predict the outcome of blending whiskies and the best release dates for them. It could also produce more visual representations for liquor lovers from novices to connoisseurs—comparing and contrasting the smokiness of whiskies from different-aged barrels, such as an 8-year-old cask versus a 16-year-old one, for example.
“That will make it much easier for people to learn about these whiskeys,” Morgan said from Scotland, where he was visiting the newly opened Port Ellen Distillery. “They will know what they’re looking for and have a much better understanding and hopefully enjoy them a little bit more.”
Morgan, a third-generation whiskey maker, has enjoyed many a fine whiskey in his day. He said he appreciates too many things about the drink to enumerate, but among them are the way it brings people together.
“It’s a very social drink. It creates these wonderful life moments,” he said. Plus, “it’s evocative. It creates memories. It also brings you back to memories.”
The Port Ellen Distillery on the Scottish island of Islay has reopened 40 years after it closed.
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