As I learned with my first sip, beer is an acquired taste. However, even among enthusiasts of lagers, stouts, pale ales, and IPAs, there’s a unique segment that can be rather perplexing: sour ales. These distinctive beverages, often aged in wooden barrels, rely on the intricate work of wild yeasts and bacteria.
Cameron Ball, the owner and brewer at La Mesa’s Helix Brewing, aptly describes sour ales: “These are not fast drinks like a beer you’d grab on your way home from work. I like to think of them as weekend beers that you’d take some time with.”
My journey into sour ales began about 20 years ago, thanks to "Dr." Bill Sysak. He was the beer ambassador at Stone Brewing and introduced me to sours during a tasting featuring selections from Oregon’s Cascade. My exploration deepened with trips to Belgium’s Cantillon, known for its fruit lambics, and Rodenbach, the home of acclaimed Flanders red ales.
Sour beers can be temperamental and challenging to create. Helix, which recently celebrated its 10th anniversary, has spent seven years honing its sour ale production under the "Sourworx" operation. On my latest visit, Ball had nine varieties on tap, showcasing the extensive range of flavors derived from the barrels that expand and contract with seasonal temperature changes. “It’s more of an art,” Ball noted, highlighting the need for creativity rather than merely following a recipe.
In addition to enjoying the sour beers, I indulged in some reading material that intersects faith and beer. "The Beer Drinker’s Guide to God" by William B. Miller, an Episcopal priest, reflects on the complexities of faith and alcohol, weaving humor and spirituality throughout its narrative. Another recommended read is "Pairing Beer & Chocolate" by David Nilsen, which offers delicious pairings, though it notably leaves out San Diego’s local breweries.
For those in the area, several upcoming beer-related events may appeal to sour ale fans. The Rosarito Beer Fest will take place on Saturday at Las Rocas Resort & Spa, and on Tuesday, Barley & Sword Brewing will host a cheese and beer pairing evening.
On the tasting front, here are a few quick reviews of sour ales to enjoy this summer:
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Bloodbuzz
- Brewery: Helix Brewing, La Mesa
- ABV: 6%
- Description: A blood orange sour ale aged in barrels, offering a citrusy aroma and tart juiciness. Definitely a drink to savor.
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Energetic Allure
- Brewery: Seek Beer, San Diego
- ABV: 6%
- Description: This gluten-free sour ale presented a unique visual separation in the glass, leaving me confused as to how to best enjoy it.
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One Way or Another (2017)
- Brewery: Cascade, Portland, Ore.
- ABV: 7.7%
- Description: A marionberry and Meyer lemon sour ale that’s unapologetically tart and refreshing, reminiscent of sparkling wine.
As summer heats up, sour ales are a refreshing choice that deserves attention.
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