February 2024 126
Laura Catena’s Approach to Addressing Sustainability Challenges in the Wine Industry
Dr. Laura Catena of Catena Wines
Being an environmental pioneer, you would think it’s easy to commit to international wine sustainability accords, isn’t that so? That’s not the case, says Dr. Laura Catena, a fourth-generation winegrower at Argentina’s Catena Wines. While the idea behind these agreements may appear straightforward, implementing them often involves challenges, ranging from technical issues to low uptake by consumers. Moreover, many international accords, though achievable — with some effort — for European and American wineries, can struggle when applied in developing nations like Argentina.
In a recent discussion, Dr. Catena highlighted the considerable obstacles that the wine industry confronts in bringing about lasting and quantifiable change in the area of environmental sustainability. Dr. Catena, who is also a doctor, author, and the founder of the Catena Institute of Wine, has made substantial progress in this field at her family’s winery, reducing the weight of bottles by 40% across the whole range since 2010. The company has just introduced a 380 gram bottle for its popular on-site wine in the U.S., Catena Appellation Malbec, lowering its weight from 700 grams per bottle (for reference, ultra-premium wine bottles range from 550 to 1,200 grams when empty).
Dr. Catena has also brought in an innovation with the Bodegas de Argentina Sustainability Code, which is based on Catena Wines’ own in-house sustainability code. Rolled out in 2010, the protocol look into all vineyard and winery inputs and outputs, providing guidance on everything from water conservation planning to best practices in human resources. Now it has been adopted by approximately 215 wineries in Argentina. The success of this code demonstrates the importance of adapting sustainability initiatives to local conditions, rather than strictly adhering to international standards, such as solar power requirements, that may not be practical in certain countries.
Dr. Catena, in her interview, elucidates the difficulties faced in achieving sustainability universally and on a global scale. She emphasizes the crucial role of invention, partnerships, and learning in addressing these problems, and provides a model for others to emulate.
Erica Duecy: Catena has an extensive record of supporting sustainability. Would you elaborate on the Bodegas de Argentina Sustainability Code and the current status of this project?
Dr. Laura Catena: Let’s start by reviewing the backdrop of participation in global wine sustainability agreements. Operating in non-first world countries presents distinct challenges that have not been addressed by several international wine sustainability groups. They fail to comprehend the scenario of working in Argentina. For instance, one of these groups required that you commit to transitioning to solar power within a specific timeframe. That’s simply not feasible in Argentina, given the scarcity of solar technology or infrastructure. Moreover, there’s no government support for such an endeavor, and solar energy is significantly more expensive than gas. Whereas Europe has access to electric tractors, these are not even available in Argentina. Furthermore, there’s the harsh reality of poverty in Argentina – a rural inhabitant’s carbon footprint is only a quarter the size of an American’s. So, this is a completely different situation.
This led us to the understanding that carbon emission reduction strategies need to be adapted to local conditions. This was the genesis of the Bodegas de Argentina Sustainability Code, a program initiated by Catena in 2008 and officially launched in 2010. Currently, 215 wineries have earned certification in accord with the sustainability code, and it enjoys international recognition.
The latest development is a commitment to carbon footprint measurement, based on a carbon calculator developed for wineries in Argentina by the certification consultancy LSQA. We partnered with LSQA with the intention that once it was developed, we could allow other companies access to its design, so it could be adopted widespread, beyond just Catena wines. We then contacted Wines of Argentina to assist us in promoting this service, which is happening presently.
Catena is on schedule to be the first winery with audited carbon emissions measurement. The new version of the code includes the following measures. First, the organization has a climate action plan, approved by its management. Second, the organization has set objectives for emission reduction. Third, the organization has computed its greenhouse gas emissions and established an action plan for reduction in line with its reduction goals. Fourth, the organization openly shares its objectives and communicates its advances toward mitigating climate change.
Question: How much of a wine’s carbon footprint is due to glass weight?
Answer: Some estimates suggest the glass weight can account for up to 60% of a wine’s carbon footprint. This includes manufacturing, hauling from a production facility to a winery, and transport once filled with wine to the end consumer. The highest emissions result from land transportation, not sea transportation.
The contribution of glass to the carbon footprint of a bottle of wine has been found to be even higher in Argentina, according to a study sponsored by the United Nations Environment Programme. The group, based at a university, found that the bottle alone, without considering other packaging, accounted for 58% of the carbon footprint of a locally-sold wine bottle in Argentina.
In their findings, the manufacturing and packaging stages were the most emission-intensive, contributing 63% of emissions, with 58% being due to the creation of the glass bottle. The agricultural stage gave rise to 30% of emissions, while 7% were due to winery processes, including electricity used in vinification. The last 1% of emissions were due to local distribution within Argentina. Thus, this distribution varies based on where the final buyer resides.
Duecy: Could you elucidate why the project to reduce the weight of glass bottles is so critical to you?
Dr. Catena: Our aim is to enhance the profile of Argentine wine for the next 200 years. Achieving this necessitates taking climate change seriously and contributing to efforts aimed at reducing climate emissions, both at home in Argentina and globally. This effort to reduce bottle weight is part and parcel of this commitment and has been an ongoing project for us at Catena for over ten years. We’ve made significant strides in reducing the weights of our volume wines. Over the last decade, we’ve recorded a 40% reduction in bottle weights across our Catena Family Wineries.
The average weight of high-end wine bottles typically ranges from 550 to 1,200 grams when they are empty. Catena is planning on reducing the weight of their Catena Appellation Malbec bottles from the original 700 grams down to 380 grams. Additionally, the company plans to decrease the weight of their Catena High Mountain Vines Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon bottles for export markets from 700 to 480 grams. These are significant changes and have the potential to save around 1,200 metric tons of glass annually.
There has been increased attention to this issue, most notably from European wine buyers. A retail chain has requested a commitment from us to reduce our carbon emissions by 45% by the year 2026. The only feasible way I can achieve is by harnessing solar power, but the current lack of an effective electrical grid in my country for solar power makes this an unlikely feat. Nevertheless, the requests come as they are required by their respective governments to reduce emissions. We have been continually communicating with the retailer in regards to what we can realistically achieve. Thankfully, some are willing to cooperate and understand our limitations. We are doing everything we can, but often the results are not as substantial as wineries situated in countries with more developed infrastructure.
Duecy: Could you tell us about the challenges you faced when you decided to switch to lighter bottles?
Dr. Catena: The transition to lighter bottles is rather challenging. Thankfully, we work with Verallia, a French glass manufacture that prioritizes mitigating climate change and has a factory based in Argentina. This allows us to make use of the advanced technology from France in Argentina. Creating lighter bottles requires a robust understanding of the process and the technology. For instance, there are areas on the bottles that are prone to fracturing. Furthermore, the shift to significantly lighter bottles, those weighing less than 400 grams, creates additional challenges on the bottling line. They are more susceptible to breakage and thus cannot be transported at the same speed along the line.
We certainly don’t want to rely on a single supplier, hence our need for additional manufacturers for the lighter bottles. We maintain collaborations with numerous glass manufacturers, which aids in keeping our glass costs low. Therefore, we need other producers to also transition to lighter glass bottles.
From a consumer awareness standpoint, there is also a hurdle to overcome. Currently, for wines priced between $12 and $15 that are in lighter bottles, the bottle quality is satisfactory. For sub-$15 wines, the brand and reviews predominantly influence consumer decision making, rather than the bottle itself. But for a $100 wine, akin to buying luxury fragrance, customers expect an attractive bottle, a stylish stopper, and a chic bag as they leave the shop. It’s premature to assume that consumers have moved past the desire for these elaborate additions. So, in my view, it is unreasonable to place the responsibility of resolving a worldly issue solely on a wine producer.
Duecy: Is there a significant price fluctuation between lighter and heavier bottles?
Dr. Catena: Typically, pricier bottles cost around $1 to $2. Cheaper bottles can be half that price, although this can differ between countries. It may seem that lighter bottles are less expensive, but in reality, that’s not the case.
Working with lighter bottles can actually be more expensive than heavier bottles. You have more breakage and you need additional quality control for bottle breakage, which is costly. There is absolutely no acceptance of glass in bottles. Hence, both a machine and an individual are required to oversee the process – a significant investment is made to ensure that there is no glass in the bottles. This is a more complex quality control process.
We are yet to reach there, but it’s my belief that we need to get to a point where the consumer should be willing to say, ‘I am ready to pay more or the same to get a lighter bottle, even if its cost is a bit less.’ This is because they understand that the environmental cost is reduced, and it’s worth opting for the change.
Duecy: The first wine that you’re unveiling with the 45% lighter bottle is Catena Appellation Vista Flores Malbec. Why this wine, and what’ll be its rollout strategy?
Dr. Catena: On-premise, there’s a higher chance for an educational campaign – we can lay emphasis on the lighter weight and turn it into a positive factor. This is as opposed to the negative potential of appearing less premium on the shelf, but without an explanation.
We have initiated an educational campaign specifically for the staff of the restaurant floors. The aim is to communicate to the end customer the benefits of utilizing lighter bottles. As part of this initiative, we will design an infographic to train on-campus teams in the U.S, and closely supervise the rollout. By conducting a survey, both pre and post-training session, we will measure the knowledge gained.
In addition, one of our retail partners, Gall & Gall, located in the Netherlands and boasting of more than 300 locations, will also see the launch of our educational campaign. The training of the floor staff will be facilitated through illustrations, and sales and surveys conducted both before and after the training will manage penetration.
Our wines are also set to launch at Angelica, our very own restaurant recognized by Michelin, located at Catena Zapata in Mendoza, Argentina. It is in our plan that the servers at this restaurant receive training and help us gather data on the queries posed by consumers.
Duecy: Could you please let us know about the other products that you plan to launch with lighter bottles and the expected timeline for these launches?
Dr. Catena: All Catena brand wines will transition from 700 gram to 500 gram bottles globally. Many will go even lower, to 480 grams or 380 grams, based on the line. For our Mountain Vines wines, we’re reducing from 700 grams to 480 grams, and have switched to a taller, more slender bottle that is both stylish and lighter. We’ve also updated the labels to better fit this bottle size.
Duecy: Will the bottle designs you’ve created in collaboration with manufacturers be accessible to other wineries?
Dr. Catena: Absolutely, we actually encourage other wine producers to use the same bottles. This ensures a greater supply and more production runs. We make all information about our glass and bottle changes available to other local producers at the Sustainability Code meetings.
Duecy: Many large retailers have signed the SWR Bottle Weight Accord with the intent to lower the average weight of bottles in their stocks to less than 420 grams by the close of 2026. Seemingly, this will necessitate a significant shift in bottle weights from hundreds, if not thousands, of producers. What’s your perspective on engaging producers around this initiative to achieve this goal?
Dr. Catena: Many retailers are expected to endorse this initiative. However, they must also resolve to enlighten their customers and collaborate with brands like ours to launch educational campaigns, equip their staff with the requisite knowledge, and designate signage that communicates, ‘Did you know that bottle weight contributes 60% of wine’s carbon footprint?’ Perhaps there should be a specified shelf section for lighter bottles.
They carry an obligation to enlighten their customers. Without this enlightenment, it becomes too easy for a customer to weigh two bottles in their hands and deem the heavier one as more superior and, consequently, worth the price — they don’t know any better.
So, retailers need to construct a strategy or formulate a plan that educates customers about bottle weight and the environmental benefits of opting for lighter bottles — without it, that’s quite a load to leave to producers. We, producers, don’t possess the same magnitude of scope to educate customers as retailers do in their stores.
Moreover, the wider trade community will need education and investment will be required for advertising and PR to aid in disseminating this message. Dr. Liz Thach has conducted research indicating that consumers are not informed about the carbon issues related to bottle weight, and they don’t particularly worry about it — their main concern is the quality of the wine.
This initiative has the potential to backfire. Suppose only the larger retailers adopt it, but don’t run any impactful promotional initiatives. It could then lead to smaller retailers or eateries to distinguish themselves by retaining the weightier, higher-end looking bottles. This could resonate with customers who aren’t aware of the specifics of bottle weight, leading to a regression. Hence, meticulous planning and thought should be given to ensure the success of this initiative.
Exploring Louisville, Kentucky: A Guide for Non-Whiskey Drinkers
Louisville was founded in 1778 and earned its name from the French king Louis XVI.
The city of Louisville is equipped with a world-class roster of whiskey distilleries—Old Forester, Angel’s Envy and Michter’s, to name a few—but there’s a world of opportunity awaiting even those who have never acquired a taste for the spirit. The charm of Louisville spans far beyond the scope of just barrel-aged distillate, with no shortage of incredible museums, restaurants and animal parks to explore all throughout the region. Whether you’re a hardcore craft beer fan, a cocktail aficionado or totally spirit-free, Louisville has the perfect place in store for you.
The first Kentucky Derby took place on May 17th, 1875.
While Kentucky is home to verdant pastures and a whole lot of livestock, one of Louisville’s most robust dining scenes involves a somewhat unexpected type of meat: namely, seafood. Due to the city’s status as a UPS hub, ultra-fresh oysters, mussels, lobster and a wealth of other marine proteins arrive on the daily—and to discover the city’s seafood prowess firsthand, River House is a top spot. Guests can spring for hearty entrees like char-grilled octopus and blackened Hawaiian ahi tuna, both of which pair perfectly with the restaurant’s sweet, butter-drenched cornbread. And for those who prefer their seafood with a Mediterranean flair, the Highlands district’s Paseo is a top spot thanks to their crispy ricotta balls, hummus brulée and prawn-loaded paella.
And of course, there’s no shortage of land-based protein for visitors to enjoy as well. For those hoping to sample an iconic Louisville staple for lunch, head to the Brown Hotel, a dazzling institution that made its debut in 1923. Upon arrival at the on-property J. Graham’s Café, guests can snag an order of the hot brown, a Mornay sauce-slathered casserole that’s packed full of turkey, bacon and tomatoes—and once you’ve had your fill, the chocolate and walnut-loaded Derby Pie serves as the perfect dessert. If you’re in need of further sweets, Please & Thank You has earned abundant acclaim for their decadent chocolate chip cookies, but once dinner time rolls around, Repeal is a top spot for a hearty slab of steak. While options span from 22-ounce dry-aged ribeye to A5 Wagyu strip steak around here, there’s a lot more to the menu than just beef, with truffled bucatini, roasted organic chicken and golden beet and apple salad all appearing on the menu as well.
Louisville is the most populous city in all of Kentucky.
For those who can’t stand the taste of whiskey but still like to imbibe, Louisville is rife with top-notch breweries and cocktail bars scattered all throughout its limits. For sour beer fans in particular, Atrium Brewing is equipped with an all-star roster of options, with current offerings spanning from the tropical fruit-loaded Tangerine Tiki Boy to the citrus-heavy Bat Boy Pink Lemonade Sour. Further north in Butchertown, Ten20 Brewery provides guests with a diverse array of beers ranging from Dryden Providin’ German Pilsner to The Machine Russian Imperial Stout, while those hoping for some insight into the brewing prowess of Lexington can head to West Sixth, a Nulu venue that’s home to a wealth of incredible IPAs.
Given Louisville’s prowess for distillation, it comes as no surprise that the city has mastered the art of mixology as well. For visitors that don’t want to stray too far from the river’s edge, Wild Swann offers top-tier cocktails within The Grady Hotel, a polished new property that made its debut in 2021. While guests can snag a classic Old Fashioned during a visit, anyone with a sweet tooth should be sure to sample the Swann Song, a velvety white chocolate martini that’s perfect in lieu of dessert. Meanwhile, those who prefer a more rustic setting can make their way to Hell or High Water Bar, a cozy speakeasy that’s particularly popular thanks to its two-person Boudoir private room. While it’s a particularly aesthetically-pleasing space, the cocktail menu is highly impressive as well, boasting a rich tapestry of concoctions that span from the rum-forward Smoke & Mirrors to the Real Dirty, a martini that’s crafted with housemade olive brine for added salinity.
The Louisville Zoo is known for its exceptional black-footed ferret breeding program, which has significantly contributed to their population in the wild.
Aside from its culinary offerings, Louisville is also home to a number of esteemed institutions that showcase the rich history and culture of the Bluegrass State. One such institution is the Frazier History Museum, where visitors can find an extensive collection of toy soldiers among other historical exhibits. Just a few blocks away, the Roots 101 African American Museum offers a comprehensive look at the history and achievements of America’s Black diaspora, with displays ranging from Black music contributions to portrayals in media throughout history.
Churchill Downs is home to the Kentucky Derby Museum, providing deeper insights into the state’s horseracing history. Here, exhibits expand upon the lives of the Derby’s most famous jockeys and the legendary racehorse, Secretariat. Afterward, visitors can meet retired racehorses at the TRF Sanctuary Farm at Chestnut Hall, a sanctuary for older horses. Lastly, for visitors passionate about animals, a trip to the Louisville Zoo is a must. Housing over 1,100 different animals, visitors may see African lions, polar bears, and orangutans, among others.
Beer Nut: Discussing Tröeg’s Latest Brew, Little ‘Nator
Tröegs Brewing has a new beer out, Little ‘Nator. Photo courtesy Troegs Brewing
Tröegs Brewing’s Troegenator has long been a favorite of many craft beer fans.
I’m guessing this means a lot of folks will be excited to hear that Tröegs has just released a “rascally cousin” of the beer, named Little ‘Nator. The beer will join the brewery’s spring seasonal lineup. I thought I’d go to the source and talk about the new brew with John Trogner, Tröegs brewmaster and co-founder along with his brother Chris.
Q. First, what inspired you to make this beer?
A. Little ‘Nator was modeled as a lighter take on our Troegenator Double Bock. Troegenator really is the beer that built Tröegs, and it’s also my desert island beer. But we wanted to try and break it down and see if we could come up with a smaller version that still retained those big flavors and complexities of Troegenator. It’s one of our most popular beers and has been around for more than 20 years, so our fans know it well. We wanted Little ‘Nator to be in that same family, so we like to think of it as the rascally cousin of Troegenator.
Q. For people who like Troegenator, what is the main difference in the flavor profile from your perspective? In what ways is it similar?
A. There are prominent stone fruit notes in both beers, especially figs and dates, but Little ‘Nator is more delicate and obviously not as intimidating as Troegenator. Little ‘Nator has subtle hints of floral hops and more notes of crusty, fresh-baked bread rather than caramel, so it comes across as a little less sweet on the palate.
Q. It would seem that the hop profile is pretty different. What made you decide to go in the direction you did as far as the hops?
A. We swapped out the German Northern Brewer hops in Troegenator in favor of Tradition because we wanted those grassy and floral aromas of classic noble hops. And the mellow spiciness of Hersbrucker plays nicely with Tradition. Adding some El Dorado punches up the fruity notes in the flavor.
Q. How close is the grain bill to Troegenator? I assume there is no chocolate malt in the new beer.
A. Little ‘Nator’s grain bill includes just pilsner and caramel malts. We stripped away the chocolate and Munich because we wanted a lighter color and body. Troegenator is such a huge, malty beer, so we wanted to see if we could get close to the flavor profile while dialing back the ABV to the 5.5% range. It’s those subtle tweaks that really shine through on lagers more than anything else. We need to be at the top of our game to get those nuanced, complex flavors. It doesn’t just happen on its own.
Q. Why did you decide to replace the Horizon IPA after just a year in the spring lineup?
A. When we rolled out our seasonal lineup in 2014, we planned to phase in new beers every couple of years to keep things fresh. Recently, we felt we were relying a little too heavily on IPAs. Since Nugget Nectar – one of our popular hoppy beers – is out around the same time, we hit upon the idea of introducing a lighter take of Troegenator. Bock beers are generally associated with spring, so the timing lined up perfectly. We enjoy experimenting with new flavors and ingredients and pushing ourselves to try new things. We don’t like resting on our laurels. I always like to think we’re in a constant state of perpetual motion.
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Violent Feline Slayer Jailed: Attacked Man with Vodka Bottle and Observed his Drowning Despair
Scarlet Blake singled out stranger Jorge Martin Carreno as he walked home from a night out, four months after she live-streamed the sadistic killing of her family’s pet cat.
A cat killer obsessed with violence and death who murdered a man she deliberately targeted before brutally attacking him and leaving him to drown in a river, has been jailed for life.
Scarlet Blake singled out Jorge Martin Carreno as he walked home from a night out in Oxford in July 2021. She led him to a secluded riverbank where he was hit to the back of the head with a vodka bottle, strangled and then pushed into the River Cherwell where the 30-year-old drowned, Oxford Crown Court heard. Today, she was sentenced for life with the minimum term of 24 years.
Prosecutors said Blake, 26, killed the BMW worker because she had a “fixation with violence and with knowing what it would be like to kill someone”. His murder came four months after she live-streamed the sadistic killing of a cat. Blake told the family pet: “Here we go my little friend. Oh boy, you smell like shit. I can’t wait to put through the blender.”
Following the brutal event, Blake performed a ghastly dissection on the creature, stripped off its pelt, and blended it. A soundtrack permeating the unnerving video was the New Order tune, True Faith, a gesture towards a Netflix documentary named Don’t F**k with Cats, where a man partakes in the slaughter of kittens, later filming a human murder.
The court was told during the proceedings that Mr. Martin Carreno was attempting to return home after spending time with his work associates in Oxford’s city center when Blake discovered him on the street. Blake was spotted on CCTV footage lurking around Oxford, concealed beneath a bulky military-style hooded coat, a face mask, and a backpack.
The prosecution proposed that what she held in her rucksack could be considered a “murder kit”, consisting of items like a garrotte and a leopard print dressing gown cord, an idea she dismissed. Blake testified that she hadn’t been out to find a victim that night but had been unable to sleep and went for a walk. She recounted how she and Mr. Martin Carreno went to Parsons Pleasure and she left him there alive, to return home.
“I have no knowledge of how he passed away. I surmised that he may have drowned. It wasn’t by my hand. The specifics of how are still unknown to me, I wasn’t present,” were her words to the jury. The notion of Mr. Carreno committing suicide was proposed, but such a suggestion was disavowed by his associates. An empty vodka bottle discovered in the river and a bottle cap found on the riverside showed traces of the accused’s DNA.
Home Office pathologist Dr Brett Lockyer stated his disbelief that the Spanish national’s death was accidental. He dismissed the idea that death occurred instantly post strangulation with a wide ligature or neck hold, concluding the cause was drowning.
The trial discussed Blake’s confession to her ex-partner, Ashlynn Bell from the US, where she claimed to have assassinated Mr Martin Carreno with a makeshift garrotte prior to disposing his body in water. She informed the jury that the described crime scene was fabricated to appease Miss Bell, who had coerced her to commit a murder after forcing her to broadcast a cat’s killing live.
“The concept was horrific and I was certainly disinclined. To satisfy her and in hopes that she might end my life someday, as this was sexually arousing for me. She persuaded me into doing this after the gruesome cat killing marked my patience verge,” she testified.
During her testimony, Blake admitted to having a disintegrated personality, including feeling like a cat, and mewed to the jury as a demonstration of her method of communication with her acquaintances. “A component of me is purely cat-like, which is peculiar and seemingly represents the brighter aspect of me. It surfaces when I am joyous,” she added.
Today, defense arguments attempted to suggest that the assault was a case of being in the wrong place at the wrong time. The prosecution appealed to the legal authority of the session to perceive the attack as sexual motivation. The prosecuting attorney, Alison Morgan KC, conveyed, “We suggest that the nature of the murder was sexually inclined, given the specific fashion in which the perpetrator decided to execute the victim. We agree that there seems to be no evidence of sexual violation. Still, we respectfully request the court to determine if the act of asphyxiation was sexually intended.”
“The defendant chose this particular approach, as suggested by Dr. Lockyer’s findings. The court should classify this as an unnecessary act though it did not directly cause death.”
In response to Blake’s conviction, the Clarke family issued a statement, “We, as a family, wish to honor our dear son and brother, Jorge. He was truly a unique individual filled with ardor and empathy. Jorge was more than a role model child; he was a remarkable person. He was well-known for his inherent warmth, hospitality, and selflessness. Jorge’s natural curiosity and creativity urged him to search, comprehend, and tirelessly theorize.
“He pursued a degree in electrical engineering, demonstrating undying dedication and fervor in every project, showcasing deep engagement in innovation. He implored a future where he can make an impact with his abilities and of aspirations, hoping to construct an improved world. His life was steeped in a deep appreciation for music, the field of photography, literary works, and athletic endeavors. He was exceedingly skillful when it came to guitar and radiated warmth and humor among those fortunate enough to know him. As a triplet, Jorge shared a deep bond with his brothers, whom he considered his best friends. He was dearly loved by his friends.”
“He had an affable heart and sense of humour that filled every space with laughter and complicity. Jorge, with his caring and friendly nature, lit up any place, always spreading joy with his wit and contagious curiosity. With a great sense of humour, his immense desire to live and enjoy life made him a special being. Always ready to help and listen to others; he was above all, an incredibly good person.”
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Ranking the Top 16 Jamaican Rum Brands
Rum’s affiliation with the Caribbean is widely known, but each rum-producing country and region has qualities that make them stand apart from one another. Consequently, each type of rum is worth exploring, including rum produced in Jamaica.
Jamaican rum is held in high esteem by rum lovers around the world. The island nation’s spirit contains unique flavors and characteristics that set the style apart from others. Furthermore, like Scotland with scotch and the U.S. with bourbon, Jamaica has implemented strict legislation regarding its rum production (one of the few rum-producing countries to do so).
I’ve sampled and served numerous Jamaican rums during my career as a professional bartender and cocktail creator. While Jamaican rum is pretty dependable overall, it also varies in quality. Having shaken, sold, and served this style of rum countless times over the years, I’m well-suited to discuss some of the more well-known brands. Encompassing a range of flavors, styles, ages, and uses, here are 16 Jamaican rum brands ranked.
Read more: 13 Liquors Your Home Bar Should Have
Speaking about Jamaican rum and leaving out J. Wray & Nephew would be an incomplete discussion. Since its inception in 1825, it has boasted the honor of being the oldest registered company in the country. It may be under the stewardship of The Campari Group, an Italian beverage conglomerate nowadays, but it still greatly showcases its deep-rooted affiliation with Jamaica, being the originator of some of the most adored rums in the region, such as the Wray & Nephew Overproof Rum.
At 63% ABV, it’s certainly not your typical sipping rum, and many may shy away from mixing it with other drinks, especially outside of Jamaica. However, there’s good reason for it to have a steadfast presence behind lots of bar counters. Being a fundamental component in numerous Tiki-style cocktails, like Mai Tais and the notorious Zombie, Wray & Nephew stands out as the most aromatic and intricate among the potent white rums. Although it comes last in this list, no Jamaican rum brands ranking would be justifiable without its mention.
Apart from Wray & Nephew, Coruba rum is another label manufactured by J. Wray & Nephew. This was initially thought up by a Swiss merchant inspired by rum during his jaunt to Jamaica toward the 19th century’s end. Ambitious to introduce this spirit to his native place, he initiated an enterprise that imported mature Jamaican rums, then blended and refined them in Basel, Switzerland.
Standing the test of time for roughly 150 years despite its relatively inferior quality, Coruba’s enduring presence arguably owes to professional bartenders who consider it an ideal component for creating tropical rum-based cocktails. Similar to its cousin, Wray & Nephew, it delivers strong, unique notes in mixed beverages that incorporate milder rums, and its flavor profile is enhanced with the infusion of glycerin and caramel flavoring. This adjustment gives it a fuller texture, which in turn boosts the texture of the cocktails it’s incorporated into, thereby saving it from being the last on this list.
Alcoholic spirits lose their volume over time due to evaporation when they age. In the world of whiskey, we call this lost alcohol “angel’s share.” However, when it comes to rum from Jamaica, it’s the mischievous spirits from local tales, the Duppies, who take the blame for the vanishing distillate. That’s how The Duppy Share got its name.
The Duppy Share, a fairly recent brand, was crafted with the goal of representing the finest features of Caribbean rum. It accomplishes this by seamlessly blending the strong punch of Jamaican rum from the famous Worthy Park distillery with the mellower rum from the Barbadian Foursquare distillery. The outcome is an approachable collection that includes a traditional Aged expression—an award-winning spiced rum, and a highly flavorful 100% Jamaican white rum.
The only premium aged rum offered by The Duppy Share is a complete Barbadian blend, ranking it close to the bottom of Jamaican rums. However, the brand has numerous strengths, which are capturing the attention of rum enthusiasts for any future releases.
The term “funk” has been mentioned several times. It is a distinct characteristic found in many (though not all) Jamaican rums. In Jamaica, this characteristic even has its own slang: hogo. When we discuss funky flavors and scents in rum, we refer to notes that range from extremely ripe tropical fruits like banana, mango, and pineapple to fruit that’s so over-ripe it’s nearly rotten. With this in perspective, The Funk unabashedly exhibits the hogo profile.
Worthy Park is where The Funk is originally distilled before it gets bottled straight from the heart of bourbon territory in Bardstown, Kentucky. The Funk is a perfect introduction to the hogo style of rum for those willing to experiment though many bartenders prefer using it as a seasoning rum to infuse cocktails with more layers of complexity. Despite the complexity that this rum offers, it may not be appealing to everyone, hence its placement at number 13.
Originating from the esteemed French house of Cognac, Maison Ferrand, Plantation Rum takes applying uniquely traditional European methods of barrel-aging to the sourced rums from places like Jamaica, Barbados, Panama, Guyana, and Trinidad. While most of the products from Plantation include a blend from different locations, they do provide a purely Jamaican rum alternative.
The pricing and quality of Plantation’s rums may vary but all of their offerings manage to hit the sweet spot in terms of cost and palatability. Every rum from Plantation can be enjoyed as a sipper with younger bottles pairing well with a light mixer for a smoother experience. The Bar Classics collection is a must-try for any cocktail enthusiast, it comprises a light, dark, and overproof rum along with their standout pineapple rum. It stands out from your typical flavored rum thanks to its natural taste that comes close to the real deal, leaving you pleasantly surprised and far from disappointed.
In regards to modern rum experts, not many can claim to have as much experience as Ed Hamilton. Hamilton, a sailor, found his love for the spirit while journeying across the Caribbean in his younger years. The enthusiasm he found led to the creation of the Ministry of Rum, a company dedicated to importing only the finest blends of the spirit while simultaneously giving enthusiasts access to Hamilton’s profound knowledge of the spirit worldwide.
Hamilton’s selection of rums do not solely originate from Jamaica. However, a handful of their superior offerings, such as Hamilton Jamaican Pot Still Black and Jamaican Pot Still Gold, are sourced from the notable Worthy Park Estate. This estate has been cultivating sugarcane and producing spirits since 1670, lending to its credibility among other brands, inclusive of several mentioned herein.
The Jamaican offerings from Hamilton are typically characterized by their rich and earthy tones, layered generously with overtones of sweet and ripe bananas. Although it doesn’t feature in our top ten, Hamilton’s brand exudes undeniable quality.
Doctor Bird, a brand named after the Jamaican avian national symbol, shares numerous similarities with The Funk rum. Both brands source their distillate from Worthy Park Estate, but final production stages – finishing and bottling – take place within the U.S. The Funk finds its roots in the south, while Doctor Bird is based in Detroit and aged in Moscatel wine casks.
Doctor Bird infuses strong hogo flavors leading to a piquant, unapologetically funky taste with notes reminiscent of overripe fruits and the slight bite of acetone. This composition makes Doctor Bird ideal for tropical cocktails, adding that dash of bold flavor. When consumed neat or mixed lightly, it might be overwhelmingly pungent for some, barring the most dedicated of funk aficionados. Similar to The Funk, it proves to be an excellent seasoning rum, powerful enough to balance any level of sweetness.
Blackwell’s reputation largely stems from the brand’s creator, Chris Blackwell, the founder of Island Records and former producer for Bob Marley. But one shouldn’t mistakenly think it lacks deep-seated roots in the world of Jamaican rum. After all, Blackwell’s grandfather was once the owner of J. Wray & Nephew. Even though the company no longer belongs to the Blackwell family, they are still the makers of this rum brand.
The sugary vanilla flavor of Blackwell Rum may mislead you into thinking it’s a spiced variety, were it slightly sweeter. However, as Blackwell’s is a relatively coarse, young rum, it isn’t quite smooth enough to serve as a sipping rum for everyone, but it pairs well with a mixer. If you’re new to Jamaican rums and want to get a feel for the style without being overwhelmed by excess funk, Blackwell is an excellent choice (and one that justifies its ninth-place ranking).
Despite its grammatically questionable name, Myers’s Rum is a highly reliable spirit that has rightfully carved its niche as an essential on bar shelves worldwide. Named after its founder, Fred L. Myers, the distillate is imported from Jamaica and bottled in Louisville, Kentucky, therefore marking it as another Jamaican rum that has found its place in the bourbon whiskey-famous region.
Myers’s Rum isn’t necessarily famous for being a particularly exceptional rum. Instead, it’s this very dependability that skillfully brings out the best characteristics of the alcohol, particularly in the Original Dark variant. Abundant traces of caramel, molasses, leather, dried fruits, and dark chocolate make it the go-to base rum for a countless number of cocktails – and one of the best rums to cook with. As it’s affordable enough to be used in cooking and bold enough to bring about a difference in recipes that require the spirit, Myers’s Rum rightly finds itself at the midpoint of this list.
Monymusk has origins tracing back to the 1800s, but is now owned by the state-owned National Rums of Jamaica Limited. The distillates used in its rums are sourced from two highly reputable producers: Long Pond Distillery, which is fully owned by the company, and Clarendon Distillery where it holds a 73% stake.
Monymusk offers a clear demonstration of the inherent fruity flavor profile characteristic of Jamaican rum without excessive funkiness. It has a relatively small core range of products but manages to cover all essential bases. This lineup includes, an overproof rum, gold rum, dark special reserve, and a tropical coconut rum liqueur named Whispering Breeze. Most of the rums serve superbly in cocktails and mixed drinks, while also being very suitable for neat sipping. The more premium offerings, which may be harder to locate and demand a higher price, are definitely worth the pursuit for anyone who is a true Jamaican rum connoisseur.
Smith & Cross operates out of London but blends its rum in Amsterdam. Despite such geographic dispersity making it sound less genuine, the company has gained prestige as a notable representative of Jamaican rum. The final product is produced exclusively with Jamaican rum sourced from a variety of distilleries, prominent among which is the esteemed Hampden Estate.
With Smith & Cross, there is a pronounced concentration of the hogo, and making a comparison against brands like The Funk or Doctor Bird is challenging. Unlike the latter two which are most suitable as seasoning rums due to their slightly rough edges when consumed neat, Smith & Cross doesn’t share this issue. In fact, its high proof bordering on navy strength adds to its tempestuous profile which might make it unsuitable for cocktails. This rum potentially stands out best when enjoyed with a splash of water or a few ice cubes. For those who are ready to embrace the full hogo experience that also comes with a reasonable price tag, this is the rum to go for.
The Long Pond Distillery holds a significant position as a national Jamaican rum brand. It supplies distillate to several brands including Captain Morgan, whereas its Long Pond rum is deemed a rarity and celebrated amongst rum connoisseurs.
Renowned for its exemplary quality, the distillery reflects 270 years of rich experience in its creations. Despite suffering from a series of unfortunate events and disasters, the scarcity of Long Pond rum only elevates its desirability. In 2012, leaky storage tanks forced a temporary closure of the distillery for significant repairs. In addition, in 2018, a blazing fire nearly obliterated the facility, leading to a loss of 65,000 liters of the invaluable rum.
As of 2024, the Distillery has recommenced its operations, although its high-end rums may yet be too pricey for an average consumer. Nevertheless, being ranked fifth amongst Jamaican rum brands, it would certainly be a prized acquisition if one were lucky enough to find a bottle.
In the list of Jamaica’s six rum distilleries, New Yarmouth has secured its place by producing distillate for many eminent brands while occasionally releasing exclusive expressions under its own trademark. Although it may be somewhat difficult to obtain and might be costly, few rums exhibit a mastery of esters—a compound produced during fermentation—as New Yarmouth does.
What makes the rum from New Yarmouth special is its extensive aging period. The years spent ageing lends to its profoundly rich and smooth nature. However, the true mastery of the distillery is seen in the delicate blend of art and science that goes into its fermentation process. Through prolonged fermentation and the use of unique yeasts, the distillery has been able to release expressions that highlight the essence of high ester Jamaican rum. Each New Yarmouth bottle is unique, reflecting a wide spectrum of fruity and vegetal traits that are unique to the distillery.
Though Hampden Estate rum is a relatively recent brand, its namesake distillery ranks among the oldest in Jamaica. The distillery uses its own sugar, hailed as some of the highest quality in the country, to produce some of the finest heavy pot still rum in the Caribbean. Combining a mix of medium and high ester distillates, along with superior cask-aging, Hampden Estate rums deliver an intense yet balanced flavor profile.
The superior molasses, banana, and citrus notes matured over a long period in barrels, unifies to create a deeply lush rum featuring hints of vanilla, dark chocolate, coffee, and hazelnut. Moreover, the rum matures in the humid tropical climate rather than overseas, which enhances the aging process. It results in an 8-year old rum having the intricacy and flavour profile of a rum aged nearly four times as long in other environments.
Ranking the last six rum distilleries in Jamaica is challenging as each has its own distinct merits drawing from centuries of rum-making tradition. However, Worthy Park Estate distinguishes itself by being the only distillery that produces Single Estate rums, created from molasses derived from its own sugarcane cultivation. The result is an array of award-winning rums that each truly warrants the recognition they have received.
Worthy Park Estate rums not only deliver on quality but also on price. Unlike many other high-end rums, they remain reasonably priced. They even have a budget-friendly range, Rum-Bar, which is lower-priced than their standard options. These rums are perfect for backbars and cocktails, offering variety that suits numerous mixed drinks. Simply put, it’s hard not to find a Worthy Park rum to fall in love with.
In the beautiful Nassau Valley lies one of Jamaica’s most renowned rum manufacturers – Appleton Estate. This estate’s history dates back to the mid-18th century, and it’s distinguished reputation is unmatched. The estate owes its success to its heritage and craftsmanship, as well as its unique terroir which produces some of the top-quality sugar in the region and an ultra-clean spring water source.
The variety on offer might not be extensive, but their core range includes ages up to 21 years, including a special release aged 50 years. The youthful variants also offer excellent value, being affordable enough to feature in cocktails while also serving as great starters for sipping.
In summary, whether you’re a connoisseur, a bartender, or just a casual rum drinker, there’s something for you in Appleton Estate rum. Given its significant impact on the rum world, it stands unsurpassed as the top Jamaican rum brand.
Like any spirit, there are great Jamaican rums, terrible ones, and plenty that fall somewhere in the middle. With 16 years of experience in the bar and restaurant industry, I’ve been fortunate enough to sample and work with a huge range of international spirits and attend masterclasses with global brand ambassadors. Additionally, as a history enthusiast with a grandparent from the West Indies, I’ve always had a keen interest in rum due to its remarkable Caribbean heritage.
The above rankings consist of Jamaican rum brands I found the most success with as a bartender (and later bar manager) and would hope to find in any rum bar worth its salt. It features a balance of spirits that suit any occasion, from the familiar and the unique to entry-level rums for newcomers. I also considered each Jamaican rum brand’s taste — both in cocktails and when sipping — when assembling these rankings, along with its availability, affordability, variety, and history.
Read the original article on Tasting Table.
Exploring the Potential for a More Sustainable Future for American Whiskey
We live in an age where questions of sustainability are brought up for nearly every product we consume, and whiskey is no exception. When you’re sipping your favorite whiskey, you might not give too much thought to how sustainably made your beverage is, but today, there are more and more distilleries brainstorming how to make products greener in the coming years. Whether that be through farming, packaging, distribution, or even the creation of the whiskey itself, a new approach to whiskey-making is beginning to take root.
These sustainable means of production have not become the norm for creating the product yet, but as resources and knowledge of how to achieve these sustainable results spread, we might begin to see an uptick in these methods. One company already beginning to implement these sustainable practices is Frey Ranch Distillery. Tasting Table had the opportunity to speak with whiskey farmer and co-founder of Frey Ranch Distillery Colby Frey about how the business is using sustainability in its production.
Colby’s approach to sustainability starts with farming first. “At Frey Ranch Distillery we are all about taking a common-sense approach to sustainability,” says Frey. “This means leaning into farming practices that make good business sense.”
Read more: The 27 Best Bourbon Brands, Ranked
Sustainability in whiskey production can take on many forms. Some of the biggest sustainable changes that can be made are mindful sourcing of ingredients, water conservation, waste reduction, and recycling. Sustainable ingredient sourcing means using a more intentional approach to where ingredients come from. For example, because Frey Ranch Distillery uses its own farmed grains for production, the carbon footprint to transport these grains is significantly less. Greener farming also includes taking a more organic approach to what products are being put into the soil.
Sustainability through water conservation refers to how distilleries can cut down on water consumption. Maker’s Mark has taken steps to improve its water conservation by building a pond to hold runoff rainwater and repurposing it for whiskey making. Some distilleries will bring in outside environmental agencies for guidance on how to do better for the surrounding land, particularly for local water sources. Waste reduction and recycling is a form of sustainability many distilleries have already begun to adopt into their processes. Spent grain doesn’t have to go to waste, it can be repurposed as livestock feed, creating a more environmentally friendly production loop from farm to distillery.
Frey Ranch has the unique benefit of being able to produce all of the grains used for its whiskey making. One of the company’s major goals is to “leave the land better than we found it,” says Colby Frey. This farming mantra drives Frey Ranch to use careful consideration while farming and has allowed the company to cut down on its carbon footprint.
Despite the commitment to sustainability, Frey Ranch acknowledges that through the farming end of whiskey production, it can be difficult for other businesses to commit. “At the end of the day, sustainability is measured in how much you can offset your environmental impact, and if you don’t have the instruments and fundamentals in place at the very beginning, it’s extremely costly and inefficient to create those measures once your distilling business is up and running,” says Frey.
That doesn’t imply that sustainability is unachievable, however, producing similar outcomes to Frey Ranch would necessitate considerable effort. The majority of distilleries are dependent on external grains for production, which can’t be quickly altered. The move towards sustainable practices in whiskey production may be a slow one, but as notable whiskey brands like Maker’s Mark have already begun to embark on this journey, it delivers a message to other brands that even minor modifications can be incorporated.
Read the original article on Tasting Table.
Avoiding This Simple Mistake to Prevent Your Beer Bread from Turning Dense
Many share the view that a glass of beer is an ideal companion for numerous occasions: socializing with friends, outdoor feasts, supporting your preferred sports team, moments under the summer sun, or during a frosty wintertime evening. However, if you only drink beer and overlook its other advantages, now may be the time to venture into the world of culinary and discover more about beer – especially its transformative effect on bread. The carbonation and yeast within beer interact with the flour and baking powder found in dough, creating an effective leavening agent. Consequently, the beer in the batter leads to a moist texture and an additional rise in the baked bread. Simply put, beer bread is a basic recipe, producing a savory, chewy, soft and delightfully dense loaf of bread.
Nevertheless, it’s worth noting that simple prep does not necessarily guarantee the desired outcome. If not careful, your dough can become excessively dense swiftly, causing the bread to emerge from the oven disappointingly heavy and devoid of its sought after moist texture. However, all hope is not lost even if your beer and batter have been troublesome in the past. The solution is straightforward – pay close attention to your kneading technique. Over-kneading your beer-infused dough can significantly affect the texture, resulting in bread that has transformed from being chewy and soft to tough and compressed.
For more information, check out: 10 Of The Healthiest Beers You Can Drink
Beer bread recipes are uncomplicated and do not require the extensive kneading associated with many other bread recipes. For beer bread, minimal mixing is imperative, though it can pose a challenge. Over-kneading is unusually rare, particularly when kneading by hand, as you can tangibly feel the dough toughening. Kneading is essential to forming the protein molecules that result in the gluten strands required for bread to rise. However, excessive kneading damages the liquid molecules, causing the dough to stiffen and tear rather than stretch, resulting in hard bread when baked.
Even though you aren’t kneading beer bread, the same principle applies. It can be harder to tell when the dough is overworked, though, since you won’t feel it in your hands and the mixture isn’t supposed to be smooth. Instead, rely on your eyes. To avoid too much mixing, it’s best to combine the beer with the dry ingredients only until they are just incorporated. You want to make sure that no pockets of flour are visible, but as soon as the flour is gone, it’s time to stop working it. For a bread like this, electric mixers can cause more harm than good. Since they mix so quickly, the batter could be over-mixed before you realize it — so rely on a spoon and elbow grease.
Beer’s yeast and carbonation content are what make it an easy bread leavening agent — but the style will come down more to your own personal preference for the flavor and color of beer you want to be incorporated into your bread. If you’re looking for a deep brown color and a coffee and chocolate flavor, then Guinness will be the best choice for beer bread. You will find a delicious richness in the stout that stands out in both color and taste.
Lighter beers won’t be as flavorful, but they can still be a good choice if you’re going for subtlety in the flavor profile. Very hoppy beers can be flavor-forward, but as long as the bitter hops appeal to you (and the crowd you’re feeding), they can be a delicious choice. Since beer bread has such a basic recipe, it’s easy to add extra ingredients like herbs or cheese or even something sweet like cranberries — so if you’re experimenting with additions, that can also affect the beer you’re mixing in.
Read the original article on Daily Meal.
The Debate on Allowing Maryland Grocers to Sell Beer and Wine: A Reader’s Perspective
Amen to Len Foxwell’s recent letter in The Baltimore Sun supporting the sale of beer and wine in Maryland grocery stores (“Let Maryland groceries sell beer and wine — finally,” Feb. 22).
As he suggests, the only possible reason for the current bans is political lobbying and corruption.
— Jeff Schumer, Towson
Add your voice: Respond to this piece or other Sun content by submitting your own letter.
Beer Industry Advocates for Eleventh-Hour Reduction in Upcoming Federal Tax Hike
The beer industry is once more making a last-ditch appeal for a reduction in the federal beer tax, which is scheduled to rise on April 1, owing to brewers and consumers’ ongoing cost struggles.
As per an official adjustment released by the Canada Revenue Agency in the past week, the excise duty rate will rise by 4.7 per cent this spring to adjust for inflation.
However, Beer Canada, the group that represents numerous brewers throughout the country, wants this rise lowered to two per cent.
If this rings a bell, it is because a similar situation transpired last year. Brewers were staring at a 6.3 per cent rise, a record high, until the federal government capped the tax at two per cent just ahead of the deadline.
“What we’re trying to communicate to the government is that a lot of the rationale and the circumstances that supported that decision last year still exists today,” said Luke Chapman, vice president of federal affairs at Beer Canada.
Chapman says the hike could result in “moderate increases” in retail prices and hurt the already-struggling hospitality sector.
“It would be a great opportunity for the government to come out and say, ‘We hear you … and we’re going to do this one small measure to demonstrate that we’re aware this is a challenging time for a lot of people and raising taxes is not appropriate under the existing circumstances.'”
Inflation-tied tax
Excise duties are also imposed on spirits, wine, tobacco, cannabis and vaping products, and are charged to producers.
The tax has been tied to inflation since 2017, but high inflation over recent years has resulted in tax rates not seen for decades.
Last year, the federal government capped the tax at two per cent right before the April deadline. This year, frustration is again growing among producers as the 4.7-per-cent increase approaches.
The House of Commons Standing Committee on Finance — which includes federal political parties across all affiliations — recently voted unanimously to cap the increase at two per cent again this year.
As per a statement from Katherine Cuplinskas, the press secretary for the office of the Deputy Prime Minister and Minister of Finance, it is indicated that the rates of excise duty are adjusted yearly to account for inflation as per the law.
“We understand that the cost of living is a significant worry for Canadians. Hence, our economic strategy focuses on finding ways to make life more affordable. For instance, we are urging Canada’s major grocery chains to stabilize the prices and implementing supply-side solutions like affordable early learning and child care,” she stated.
The rate is set based on the volume of beer a brewery manufactures and the alcohol present in it.
For local breweries that produce beer with an alcohol content of more than 2.5 per cent by volume, the current excise tax varies between $3.552 and $30.192 per hectolitre (100 litres) of beer.
Smaller cap for smaller brewers
Blair Berdusco, the executive director of the Alberta Small Brewers Association (ASBA), mentioned that small breweries in the province are severely affected by tax hikes. ASBA represents about 130 small independent brewers.
She argued that it might appear to be a trivial increase, but for smallest Canadian breweries, the production cost for a single beer can is significantly higher than for large scale breweries.
Berdusco points out that even a minor increase can be the deciding factor between hiring a new employee, making investments to expand the brewery, or even affording the ingredients for a new product’s production.
Blair Berdusco, who is the executive director of the Alberta Small Brewers Association, has expressed that the ongoing increase might lead to an additional tax burden of $750 to $2,500 a yearly for minor brewers.
Berdusco also suggests that the current uncertainty in the industry makes it challenging for brewers to plan effectively and maintain consumer-friendly prices.
That is why the ASBA, in collaboration with the Canadian Craft Brewers Association, have created a unique proposal that is based on their personal economic impact evaluations.
“We propose a reduction of 50 percent in the current rates for those breweries that produce under half a million hectolitres annually. This includes approximately 1,200 craft breweries throughout Alberta. For anyone exceeding that half a million, we suggest an increase of merely 1.8 percent.”
As the deadline approaches, Berdusco expresses her ongoing optimism that the federal government will continue to address the concerns of the beer production industry.
Constructing Your Dream House in the Heart of Wine Country
Bruce Falck had always aspired to emulate his father, the owner of a construction company in Johannesburg, South Africa, with his intention of constructing a house particularly for his family.
“My father, a civil engineer, built the two houses I spent my childhood in,” said Falck, 52, an ex-Twitter executive presently working on a startup. “For me, making a home was always a father’s duty to his family.”
Almost getting there in 2011, Falck and his spouse, Lauren Weitzman, who is 41 and works at Google, purchased a house in San Francisco. They brought on the architectural company Studio Vara to execute a complete renovation. However, on the brink of the construction starting in 2013, the pair had a re-think.
“Children were on the cards,” stated Falck. Suddenly, the thought of enduring a long-term construction project while their family life was in flux didn’t appear as manageable, particularly to Weitzman. (They now are parents to three kids, aged between 4 and 8.) So, they opted to sell their house and acquire one that was prepared for immediate occupancy.
“Bruce was really bummed,” said Christopher Roach, a partner at Studio Vara. “But he said, ‘I promise you, in a few years we’re going to look for some land up in wine country, and we’re going to do a project together.’”
About five years later, in 2018, Roach received a two-word text message from Falck: “It’s time.”
With their architect’s help, the couple began searching for a lot in Healdsburg, in Sonoma County, and found a 15-acre hilltop site with views in all directions. “It felt like the African bush,” said Falck. The couple bought the lot for about $1.5 million in July 2018, before they had even fully explored the land.
Just before closing, Roach camped on the site overnight to study the property further, thinking about where best to situate a house. “I like to see where the sun rises and sets,” he said, “and where the breezes come from in the morning versus the afternoon.”
As the architect surveyed the land, he identified that it was even more promising than initially regarded.
“The topography descends on one side towards a natural creek circled by towering
redwoods,” he shared, the other half is a mixture of oak and pine trees. He continued, “I captured the scene
through photographs, jotted down my impressions, and sketched out the preliminary
design concept. Interestingly, one of the earliest sketches formed the foundational layout
for the building.”
The initial idea was to craft a unique, boomerang-shaped residence at the peak of the plot
along the precipice. The design concept matured into a massive 6,200-square-foot dwelling
comprising 4,000 square feet of indoor living spaces almost entirely surrounded by glass
under a wide roof, providing an additional 2,200 square feet of alfresco living areas.
When the glass doors are pulled wide open, it presents an illusion of an opulent open hut.
“The temperature can get extremely warm,” commented Falck. “However, the house is basically a colossal canopy.”
Drawn by the charm of classic Southern-style wraparound porches, Weitzman found a similar allure in a modern variant.
Resembling a boomerang, the house has two distinct wings adjoined by a contemporarily-designed breezeway. This breezeway facilitates the flow of fresh air through the folding and pivoting glass doors. Geared towards the sunrise and the majestic view of Mount Saint Helena, one of the wings harbors the bedrooms. The other wing, which nestles the kitchen, dining, and living rooms, is oriented towards the captivating sunset.
Fashioning an extended living space, the roof stretches over an outdoor room that features a brise soleil. This outdoor room further connects to other open-air spaces such as the pool deck and the alfresco kitchen and dining area.
The coherence of the house with sustainability and resilience is noteworthy. Fire-resistant attributes like the standing-seam zinc cladding and circumambient walking paths, acting as firebreaks, bolster the house’s safety. In the event of power outages, the house remains independent due to the solar panel powered battery backups. It is also equipped with its unique well and septic system. The construction spearheaded by Fairweather Associates spanned over 2½ years, with COVID-19 and wildfires posing significant hurdles. With an approximate cost of $1,250 per square foot, the project wrapped up in June 2022.
“We watch the sunset, we’re in the pool, we’re in the hot tub, and Bruce is always grilling,” Weitzman said.
It’s exactly the kind of once-in-a-lifetime home Falck had in mind.
“This is a long-term thing,” he said. “For me, success would be having our kids, when they’re in their 80s, having a glass of wine on that patio and watching their grandkids swimming the pool. That’s the metric for success.”
McKeough is a freelance writer. This article originally appeared in The New York Times.