My indoctrination into the world of rye whiskey began in the mid-’90s, fueled by intense interests in American history and the hypnotic tunes of lounge music from the Eisenhower era. This led me to research retro cocktail recipes, many of which incorporated rye. I found that rye was not in high demand, and only two bottles were available in my local liquor store in the Upper West Side of Manhattan. One of those bottles was a Wild Turkey. The other was an attractively packaged bottle of Old Overholt adorned with a portrait of a severe-looking (and slightly smirking) gentleman from the 18th or 19th century.

I learned that rye whiskey had been on a continuous decline since the 1950s. The decline began with the prohibition in 1920 and accelerated after its repeal in 1934 as tastes shifted towards lighter Canadian whiskies and more so towards vodka. Initially, I knew nothing about Old Overholt. I was unaware of its long-standing history dating back to 1810 and that it had survived prohibition by marketing its products as “medicinal whiskey.” I was oblivious to the fact that its origins lay in Pennsylvania, known for its historical rye production, until it was acquired by Jim Beam and relocated to Kentucky in the 1980s. I was also unaware that it had always been 80-proof and aged for a meager three years.

Despite its humble characteristics, I fell in love with Old Overholt upon my first taste. It offered a unique blend of light nutty and caramel sweetness, a touch of leather, with a gentle but distinct spiciness. It instantly became my preferred drink of choice. As a single man back then, I would often try to impress my bewildered dates by preparing vintage rye cocktails like the Ward 8 and the Brooklyn. Whether my attempts at sophistication were successful is still up for debate, but it was certainly a joy educating them about the magic of rye while sharing tales of timeless cocktails.

The latest variation of Old Overholt is the first cask-strength bottling in eight decades, adding a fresh chapter to its 210-plus year history.

In the 21st century, the rye revival gathered momentum, particularly with the introduction of brands such as WhistlePig, a robust, 100 proof, 100% rye whiskey that made a significant impact in cocktails and enthralled whiskey enthusiasts seeking something novel and thrilling. Old Overholt, however, remained a cult favorite due to its minimal promotional effort, yet it was still cherished by numerous bartenders. In recent years, Beam (now Beam Suntory), guided by Bradford Lawrence, the firm’s rye whiskey specialist, has made moves to raise its profile and restore its former glory.

Old Overholt’s flagship product is now aged for four years instead of three, and bottled at 86 proof rather than 80. A bonded expression, which was available shortly after the Bottled-in-Bond Act of 1897 was enacted until the 1960s, has been reintroduced. Limited edition one-offs were launched to appeal to the collectors’ market. Also, the first cask strength Old Overholt since the 1940s was released. Interestingly, Old Overholt Extra Aged Cask Strength Rye is bottled at exactly the same strength as the ‘40s edition, 60.5% ABV. It’s also one of the oldest Old Overholts launched since Prohibition, having been aged for ten years.

Today’s Old Overholt is not the same as the one your grandparents knew. It’s no longer produced in Pennsylvania and the unique three-chamber stills that gave it its exceptional flavor have mostly disappeared (with Todd Leopold of Leopold Bros. notable for having one constructed and producing some remarkable whiskey with it). However, as someone who has tasted pre-Prohibition Old Overholt, I can assure there’s certainly a family resemblance. Both the old and new versions feature sweet, peanut brittle-and-honey notes, a dry spice, and hints of oak and cinnamon on the finish. The cask strength runs a little hotter and dryer than other Old Overholts, but is quite drinkable even at such a high proof.

I must confess, I wanted to like this whiskey. But it turns out to be easy to like, regardless of your feelings on the old dude on the bottle or whether you’re invested in his brand’s place in whiskey history. At $99.99, it’s a fair price for a 10 year, cask-strength rye, although the actual price you may come across could be higher due to the limited supply and the secondary market. According to the company, cask strength Old Overholts will become a regular offering, although this specific batch, created in 2012, is a one-time-only deal.

Oh, and I vowed to reference the elderly gentleman depicted on the label. This distinguished figure is none other than Abraham Overholt, the pioneer who initiated the journey of the brand back in 1810. His stern, scowling face has been a significant part of Old Overholt’s packaging for many years. As per Bradford Lawrence, during the 1960s, when brown spirits in general and rye whiskey in particular were dwindling in popularity, a decision was made to revamp Grumpy Abe’s image to make it less intimidating. When I acquired my first bottle, Abe appeared kind and almost fatherly, though not exactly cheerful. However, with the revival of the whiskey, Grumpy Abe’s original, displeased persona was also reinstated. He now looks just as grumpy as he did over a hundred years ago. He appears to be sending a message across the ages, indicating the seriousness involved in the production of prime-quality whiskey.