We frequently receive inquiries concerning the intricate art of winemaking. Below are a few noteworthy recently asked questions.
Question: The other day, I was drinking a bottle of white wine and noticed a large amount of sediment at the bottom of my final glass. Does this signify something wrong with my wine?
Reply: Negative, yet your apprehension is understood. One of our recent dinner invites was repulsed after she unknowingly consumed some of these crystals in her last serve of a delightful Cormorant grenache-marsanne blend. We found the amount, nearly a teaspoon, in her glass surprising as well but confirmed that the wine was not harmful.
Even so, it was not enjoyable to swallow. Had you been alone, or without the knowledge of an expert, you might have suspected the wine to be defective. As a result, to prevent this issue from surfacing, several winemakers subject their wines to cold stabilization to eliminate these crystals before they are bottled. Yet, this method also risks removing the wine’s crucial acidity. It’s a purely visual concern that winemakers continually face.
Firstly, let’s talk about the origin of these crystals. Often termed as “wine diamonds”, these crystals emerge from the naturally existing tartaric acid, essential in solidifying chemicals. It also imparts colour and structure to a wine. Though most of it gets eliminated during the filtration process, a fraction often remains soluble and hence invisible during purchase. However, once the wine is refrigerated, the crystals appear and settle at the bottom.
We had a conversation with the winemaker at Cormorant, Charlie Gilmore. He confessed that his grenache-marsanne blend results in a significant amount of crystals once refrigerated. He acknowledged the existence of methods to eliminate these crystals at the winery, but his primary aim is to produce an untouched, authentic wine. However, he takes a stand against cold fermentation.
He stated, “It’s a significant energy user. In order to produce quality wine, I won’t fine, filter or freeze. I believe it’s a better wine if I avoid doing so.”
Secondly, we discovered potential chances for a wine that stays in the refrigerator for several days to form more crystals. For instance, the Cormorant blend was refrigerated for a few days in preparation for the Thanksgiving dinner. If the wine had been refrigerated just a few hours before the dinner, it might not have resulted in as many crystals.
We value a winemaker who adheres to the natural process of winemaking, utilizing fewer chemicals and methods in the purification of a wine. The Cormorant had no fining or filtration utilized and had minimal sulfites added. This created a highly fresh, crisp wine we would happily serve again – only with less refrigeration time.
Q: I adore red wine, yet even if I only consume one glass, I always end up with a headache. White wine, on the other hand, does not have the same effect. Is this just a personal reaction or does red wine have components that augment my chances of getting a headache the next day?
A: Have faith in us, this issue has been investigated and contested for numerous years. We have informed our readers that it isn’t caused by sulfites, as many would presume, but likely due to the phenolics or histamines which are more commonly found in red wine than in its white counterpart, and even beer. A new perspective on headaches and red wine was introduced by a recent study published in Scientific Reports.
The report, authored by Apramita Devi, Morris Levin and Andrew L. Waterhouse, attributes the headaches to quercetin, which blocks ultraviolet light as a sunblock would. Only a chemistry scientist would be able to understand the technicalities of this academic report, but our main takeaway is that red grapes exposed to more sunshine accumulate more quercetin.
Even though the liver is adept at processing alcohol, it can be overburdened when quercetin comes into the mix. The toxin produced by this inadequate processing can provoke a headache akin to the pounding of a John Deere piston. As a consequence, high doses of these chemicals are often administered to alcoholics to trigger unpleasant symptoms that deter them from drinking.
Furthermore, the research revealed that levels of flavonols, a wide category that includes quercetin, were “four times greater in ultra-premium wines than in mass-produced wines”. This could be attributable to the fact that vineyards may expose their grape plants to additional sunlight to promote ripeness and allow the skins to remain in contact with the fermenting juice for extended durations. These meticulous practices are not commonly employed in the production of inexpensive wines.
If you experience headaches after consuming red wine, it would be prudent to examine the price tag.
The findings of this report can be accessed on www.nature.com/articles/s41598-023-46203-y.
Q: Does wine served in a plane at high altitude taste any differently?
A: We were taken aback when we learned that altitude influences the flavor of wine. A press release from TAP Air Portugal indicated that the airline employs a wine panel that samples wines inflight to note any differences. Visualize a team of experts decked out in lab coats, flying about while savouring different wines. An interesting job, that’s for sure.
Studies have indicated that at altitudes between 3,000 and 5,000 feet, you can sense around 20% less sweetness and 30% less salinity in wines than at ground level. The wine itself doesn’t change, but your taste perception might. As these elements significantly influence the taste of wine, airlines need to carefully choose those wines that can withstand these conditions without altering taste significantly. Typically, these are fruity wines with fewer tannins.
Wines that have high salinity usually originate from vineyards close to the sea –examples are albarino from northern Spain, assyrtiko from Greece, or grillo from Sicily. We haven’t encountered these wines on flights to or from Europe yet. But it does make us ponder whether a mildly sweet Californian chardonnay will taste the same inflight as it does on ground.
It’s common for fliers to experience dehydration, which can reduce the aroma of wine by up to 25% according to studies. On long-haul flights, it’s therefore recommended to opt for water rather than alcohol. Since our palates only detect five different components – sweet, bitter, salt, acid and umami – a significant portion of a wine’s character is identified through its aroma.
All Saints Estate Durif 2021 ($38): This is an impressive find. If you’re a fan of robust and rich reds, you’ll love this durif from northeast Victoria, Australia. Durif is a combination of peloursin and syrah. It’s a tannic, condensed wine with an intense black color and potent ripe berry flavors. The tannins in this wine allow it to be preserved for at least ten years.
Coto de Imaz Reserva 2018 ($23): It seems that we can’t get enough of Rioja. Each time we sample a new one, we find ourselves wondering why tempranillo isn’t a more frequent feature on our tables. This particular gem is entirely tempranillo, packed full of dark berry fruit. After aging in American oak for a minimum of 18 months, it presents a distinct vanilla and caramel nuance. For a little more, the 2016 Coto de Imaz Gran Reserva ($37) offers greater focus and richness. Extra bottle aging yields a smooth, luxurious texture.
Villa Maria New Zealand Private Bin Sauvignon Blanc 2022 ($16): For those who prefer a lively and sharp sauvignon blanc, this selection from the Marborough region will not disappoint. It features white grapefruit, a touch of fresh-cut grass, and refreshing acidity.
Tom Marquardt and Patrick Darr have been writing a weekly, syndicated wine column since 1985. See their blog at moreaboutwine.com. They can be reached at marq1948@gmail.com.
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