When it comes to wine, the U.S. West Coast is a dominant player, producing over 90% of America’s wine. However, this thriving industry is facing a significant threat – wildfires. In 2020, wildfires wreaked havoc on the region, causing devastating losses for winemakers. Scientists are now working diligently to find ways to protect the industry from this combustible combination.

A group of wine experts from three West Coast universities are partnering to address this growing concern. Their efforts include developing spray coatings to safeguard grapes, identifying the compounds responsible for the undesirable ashy taste that smoke can impart, and deploying smoke sensors in vineyards to gain a better understanding of smoke behavior. The U.S. government is providing millions of dollars in funding to support this critical research.

Wineries themselves are also taking proactive steps to protect their products and brands. With climate change exacerbating drought and increasing the risk of wildfires, these premier wine-making regions are under constant threat. Grapes are the highest-value crop in the United States, with 96% of grape-bearing land situated on the West Coast. The losses caused by wildfires in 2020 amounted to billions of dollars, making it crucial to find solutions to mitigate this ongoing risk.

Winemakers worldwide are already adapting their practices to cope with climate change. This includes relocating vineyards to cooler zones and cultivating grape varieties that thrive in drought and heat. However, wildfires present an additional and more immediate danger that requires urgent attention. Scientists from Oregon State University, Washington State University, and the University of California, Davis are at the forefront of tackling this issue.

Tom Collins, a wine scientist at Washington State University, emphasizes the significance of addressing the threat smoke exposures pose to wine production. He highlights that the ability to continue making wine in areas with higher chances of smoke exposure is at stake. Consequently, it is essential to understand the chemistry behind the compounds that contribute to the ashy flavor and find effective ways to eliminate them.

Research conducted by Elizabeth Tomasino, an associate professor at Oregon State University, and her team revealed the presence of sulfur-containing compounds called thiophenols in smoke-impacted wine. Alongside volatile phenols, previously identified by Australian researchers as contributing to the ashy taste, these compounds play a significant role. The challenge lies in understanding how thiophenols, undetectable in wildfire smoke, appear in smoke-impacted wine and finding methods to eliminate them.

The consequences of using grapes tainted by smoke can be detrimental to winemakers’ reputations. Wine made from such grapes is often so unpleasant that it cannot be marketed. Even if it does make it onto shelves, the risk of tarnishing a winemaker’s reputation is not worth taking. In 2020, during the record wildfires, some California wineries refused to accept grapes unless they were tested for smoke exposure. However, the overwhelming demand for laboratory services left many growers unable to analyze their grapes.

The industry suffered significant losses, with California alone experiencing a staggering $3.7 billion in damages, according to an analysis conducted by Jon Moramarco of the consulting firm bw166 for industry groups. The majority of these losses were a result of wineries having to forgo future wine sales. The impact was particularly severe in Napa Valley, known for its high-priced grapes and wines. Losing just one ton of cabernet sauvignon grapes can amount to approximately 720 bottles of wine valued at $100 each, making the losses add up rapidly.

The 2020 wildfires left between 165,000 and 325,000 tons of California wine grapes abandoned on the vine due to either actual or perceived smoke exposure. The situation highlighted the urgent need for solutions to better protect the industry from this ever-present threat.

In conclusion, the U.S. West Coast’s wine industry faces a perilous combination of being the primary wine producer in the country while being prone to wildfires. Climate change exacerbates the situation, as drought and overgrown forests increase the risk of fires. However, scientists and winemakers are working tirelessly to find ways to neutralize this threat. With significant research initiatives and proactive measures being taken, there is hope that the industry will be able to adapt and withstand the challenges posed by wildfires, ensuring the continuation of America’s premier wine production regions.

The impact of wildfire smoke exposure on the wine industry in California, Oregon, and Washington is becoming increasingly evident. According to Natalie Collins, president of the California Association of Winegrape Growers, many winegrowers are struggling to obtain insurance due to the high fire risk in their regions. And even if they manage to secure coverage, the rates are exorbitantly high.

As a result, winemakers are exploring various techniques to mitigate the effects of smoke on their wines. Some are passing the wine through a membrane or treating it with carbon, but these methods can potentially strip the wine of its unique flavors and nuances. Another approach is blending smoke-affected grapes with unaffected ones, which helps reduce the concentration of smoke flavor compounds. Additionally, making rosé wine instead of red can also minimize the impact of smoke by limiting skin contact during the winemaking process.

However, more innovative methods are being developed to address this issue. Collins, together with the researchers at Washington State University, has been experimenting with spraying fine-powdered kaolin or bentonite, clays mixed with water, onto wine grapes. This coating would absorb the smoke-related materials, which can then be washed off before the harvest. Oregon State University is also working on developing a spray-on coating as a potential solution.

To aid in this research, dozens of smoke sensors have been installed in vineyards across the three states, thanks to a $7.65 million grant from the USDA. Anita Oberholster, who leads the efforts at UC Davis, explains that these instruments will be used to measure smoke marker compounds and help develop mitigation strategies to determine smoke exposure risk.

Greg Jones, director of the Oregon Wine Board and owner of Abacela winery, appreciates the efforts of these scientists. He believes that their research is integral in finding ways to quickly identify if a vineyard’s fruit contains compounds that could lead to smoke-impacted wine. Jones is hopeful that with the combined efforts of scientists, a set of effective strategies can be developed to combat this issue.

Collins shares Jones’ optimism and predicts eventual success in finding solutions to reduce the impact of smoke on wine production. While there may not be a magical fix, it is increasingly clear that a range of strategies will emerge to safeguard the wine industry from the detrimental effects of wildfire smoke exposure.