ALPINE, Ore. (AP) — The U.S. West Coast, known for producing more than 90% of America’s wine, faced a significant threat to its wine industry in 2020 due to wildfires. The combination of the region’s wine production and the increasing occurrences of wildfires created a disastrous situation that scientists are urgently trying to address. The impact of smoke on grapes can drastically affect the taste of wine, transforming it into an unpleasant ashy flavor. To combat this issue, wine experts from three West Coast universities are collaborating to develop solutions, such as spray coatings to protect grapes, identifying the compounds responsible for the undesired taste, and utilizing smoke sensors to monitor vineyards and understand smoke behavior. The research is being supported by substantial funding from the U.S. government, recognizing the importance of mitigating this threat. Wineries themselves are also taking steps to protect their products and brands.

The risk to the West Coast’s premier wine-making regions, where wildfires caused billions of dollars in losses last year, is escalating due to climate change exacerbating drought and creating overgrown forests that serve as fuel for fires. The U.S. Department of Agriculture reveals that grapes are the highest-value crop in the United States, with a staggering 1 million acres of grape-bearing land, 96% of which is located on the West Coast. Winemakers worldwide have been adapting to the effects of climate change by relocating vineyards to cooler regions and cultivating grape varieties that are better suited to drought and heat. However, they are now facing an additional immediate threat posed by wildfires, which is being tackled by scientists from Oregon State University, Washington State University, and the University of California, Davis.

The ability to continue producing wine in areas where smoke exposure is more common is at stake, according to Tom Collins, a wine scientist at Washington State University. The scientists’ work involves conducting experiments to understand the impact of smoke exposure on grapes and wine production. For instance, researcher Cole Cerrato conducted an experiment at Oregon State University’s vineyard, using a fan and a dryer vent hose to blow smoke from a Weber grill onto a row of grapes enclosed in a makeshift greenhouse. Research led by Elizabeth Tomasino at Oregon State University identified sulfur-containing compounds, known as thiophenols, in the smoke-affected wine, which were found to contribute to the ashy flavor. The presence of “volatile phenols,” previously identified as smoky flavor contributors by Australian researchers over a decade ago, was also observed.

Collins confirmed the presence of these sulfur compounds in wine exposed to smoke in the Oregon vineyard, while samples without smoke exposure did not contain them. The researchers aim to understand how thiophenols, which cannot be detected in wildfire smoke, appear in smoke-affected wine and find ways to eliminate them. Cerrato emphasizes that there is still much to learn, explaining that there is ongoing chemistry and research to explore in relation to these new compounds. The quality of wine made from tainted grapes is often so poor that it cannot be sold. Additionally, winemakers risk damaging their reputation if they release wine made from smoke-affected grapes. During the record-breaking wildfires in 2020, some wineries in California refused to accept grapes unless they were tested for smoke exposure. However, most grape growers were unable to find laboratories to analyze their grapes due to the overwhelming demand.

According to an analysis conducted by Jon Moramarco of consulting firm bw166 for industry groups, the damage to the wine industry in California alone amounted to $3.7 billion in losses. The majority of these losses resulted from wineries having to forgo potential wine sales. The impact was particularly severe in Napa Valley, known for its high-quality and high-priced grapes and wines. Moramarco explains that if a ton of cabernet sauvignon grapes is ruined, it equates to approximately 720 bottles of wine. If each bottle is valued at $100, the financial losses escalate rapidly. In 2020, anywhere from 165,000 to 325,000 tons of California wine grapes were left to wither on the vine due to the actual or perceived effects of smoke exposure.

The imperative to protect the West Coast’s wine industry from the ongoing threat of wildfires is clear. The collaborative efforts between universities, the government’s financial support, and the proactive measures taken by wineries signal a commitment to finding solutions to the challenges posed by smoke exposure. While there is still much research to be conducted and many answers to uncover, the determination of scientists and wine experts alike bodes well for the future of the West Coast’s wine production. The hope is that the efforts being made today will allow winemakers to continue producing exceptional wines for years to come, despite the growing risks associated with wildfires and a changing climate.

Title: Navigating the Challenges Faced by Winegrowers in Wildfire-Prone Regions

Wildfires have become a recurring nightmare for winegrowers in California, Washington, and Oregon. The far-reaching implications of these natural disasters are exposing the wine industry to unprecedented challenges. Natalie Collins, President of the California Association of Winegrape Growers, recently highlighted the difficulties faced by growers in securing insurance. Many winegrowers have been forced to contend with exorbitant rates, reflecting the heightened fire risks in their respective regions.

In their tireless efforts to combat the impact of wildfire smoke on their crop, winemakers have adopted various techniques. However, these interventions can sometimes compromise the distinct flavors that wine enthusiasts have come to cherish. Some winemakers are resorting to passing the wine through membranes or treating it with carbon to minimize smoke impact. Nevertheless, this approach can deprive the wine of its inherently nuanced characteristics.

Blending smoke-affected grapes with unaffected ones presents another feasible option. By creating rosé wines instead of red, winemakers can significantly reduce the concentration of smoke flavor compounds. Furthermore, Natalie Collins of Washington State University has taken an innovative approach by experimenting with spraying fine-powdered clays, such as kaolin or bentonite mixed with water, onto wine grapes. This technique aims to absorb smoke-related materials, which can later be washed off before harvesting.

Oregon State University is also contributing to the evolving landscape by developing a spray-on coating as a preventive measure. Simultaneously, vineyards in the three states have installed smoke sensors, funded in part by a $7.65 million USDA grant. These sensors play a crucial role in measuring smoke marker compounds, a vital step toward developing effective mitigation strategies and assessing smoke exposure risks.

The ongoing research in this area has earned accolades from Greg Jones, director of the Oregon Wine Board and owner of Abacela winery in the Umpqua Valley. Jones believes that this comprehensive research has significantly contributed to identifying potential compounds that lead to smoke-impacted wine. While a definitive solution may remain elusive, winegrowers are optimistic that a combination of strategies will eventually triumph.

As winegrowers continue to tackle this formidable challenge, it is essential to recognize and appreciate their resilience in the face of adversity. They are persevering in their pursuit of creating exceptional wines while mitigating the risks posed by wildfires. The collaboration between industry experts and academic institutions is a testament to the unwavering determination to protect the integrity of one of the world’s most beloved beverages.

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