Unearthing Hidden Gems: Wine-Making in the Heart of Brazil’s Savanna

When it comes to wine, few would think of the tropical savannah surrounding Brazil’s architectural marvel, Brasilia, as the ideal terroir. But French enologist, Jean-Michel Barcelo, brushes aside conventional notions as he bites into a succulent ruby-red grape and exclaims, “This land has untapped potential!” While Brazil may not share the same prestige as South American counterparts Argentina and Chile or the revered vineyards of France, a groundbreaking production technique developed by Brazilian researchers in the 2000s has revolutionized winemaking in the Brasilia region.

Barcelo, a distinguished silver-haired connoisseur, praises the unique approach utilized by winemakers in this area, proclaiming it unlike anything seen before. The high-altitude vineyard, Villa Triacca, located a 50-minute drive from Brasilia’s imposing white structures, boasts favorable conditions for grape cultivation. Situated 1,000 meters (3,280 feet) above sea level, the vineyard enjoys a dry climate and experiences a significant temperature difference of up to 15 degrees Celsius between daytime and nighttime during the mild Brasilia winters. These factors create the perfect environment for cultivating grapes that gradually ripen to perfection.

Visitors partaking in a wine tasting at Villa Triacca are left astounded by the quality of the wines. Luciano Weber, a local resident, expresses his surprise, stating, “I had no idea they were producing something of such high caliber here.” However, the decision to grow grapes in central-western Brazil, the heartland of the country’s soybean, corn, and beef industries, was not an obvious one. The success lies in a technique known as “double pruning.” By pruning vines twice a year, once in winter and once in summer, winemakers can shift their grape-picking season from autumn, when heavy rains threaten the harvest, to July and August, the winter months of the southern hemisphere. Moreover, a synthetic hormone regulates the vines’ growth, keeping them dormant until the ideal picking time arrives. Producers assure that the hormone leaves no trace in the final product, although some remain skeptical without proper scientific studies to back these claims.

Suzana Barelli, a resident wine expert at Estado de Sao Paulo newspaper, acknowledges the lack of research but commends the region’s wines for their exceptional quality. Despite having only ten vineyards in the Federal District, known as the Brasilia region, the wine industry is burgeoning. Farmland dedicated to wine production more than doubled from 45 hectares (111 acres) in 2018 to 88 hectares (217 acres) last year. Ronaldo Triacca, the owner of Villa Triacca, embodies the spirit of ambition and resilience. Having launched his vineyard just six years ago, Triacca began with a mere dream of producing “table wine.” However, after learning about the innovative inverted pruning technique, his perception changed. Today, on six hectares of land alongside his corn and soy fields, he cultivates Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Cabernet Franc grape varieties. Triacca now sells an impressive 15,000 bottles annually and is a valued member of Vinicola Brasilia, a collective of regional winemakers.

Presently, the majority of their production finds its way to specialty stores and restaurants in the capital. However, they are steadily gaining attention and recognition. Felipe Camargo from the regional agricultural agency, Emater, declares, “Many still believe that a wine must hail from Argentina, Portugal, or France to be considered excellent. We are determined to change that perception swiftly.”

Indeed, the wine landscape is evolving, and Brazil’s Brasilia region is emerging as a formidable player in the industry. With innovative techniques, favorable climate conditions, and a shared passion for producing exceptional wines, these winemakers are rewriting the narrative and showcasing Brazil’s hidden gems to wine enthusiasts worldwide. The journey has just begun, and the future holds promising results as this unique terroir continues to thrive and captivate the palates of wine lovers across the globe.