When the World Beer Cup awards were announced recently, Sierra Nevada Brewing Co. won gold for its flagship beer, Sierra Nevada Pale Ale, in a surprising category: Extra Special Bitter. Although this beer has been renowned for 45 years and is celebrated for essentially creating the American Pale Ale style, winning in this category was unexpected.

To understand this, we need to explore how pale ales differ from Extra Special Bitters (E.S.B.). Historically, these two styles were often regarded as the same in England, with the beer referred to as pale ale in bottles and bitters on draft. Before clear identifiers emerged, customers would simply order a bitters, differentiating it from the sweeter mild ale that was also popular.

The term “bitters” evolved over time into three categories: Ordinary Bitters, Best or Special Bitters, and Extra Special Bitters. The E.S.B. designation was introduced by Fuller’s in 1971, but because early craft beer drinkers in the U.S. generally avoided beers labeled as bitter, many brewers opted to use the pale ale term instead.

Today, the World Beer Cup features several categories for pale ales and bitters, with guidelines that evolve each year. While Sierra Nevada Pale Ale is now labeled a legacy beer, its classification has shifted to fit the sub-category of American-style Extra Special Bitter, reflecting changing consumer tastes and brewing practices.

Sierra Nevada Pale Ale is well-balanced, blending rich malt and robust hop flavors. When it debuted in the early 1980s, it was considered hop-forward, but compared to modern IPAs, it now appears more restrained. This balance is why pale ales remain a popular choice for various occasions.

If you’re looking to explore pale ales, Sierra Nevada’s original is readily available and still tastes nearly the same as when it was first introduced. Additionally, Faction Brewing’s Penske File Pale Ale stands out as an excellent West Coast pale ale. Firestone Walker’s Double Barrel Ale offers a great take on English-style pale ales, while Cellarmaker Brewing in San Francisco produces excellent options like Underneath the Pine and Super Mt. Nelson.

For those interested in the craft beer landscape, Sierra Nevada’s recent win highlights the intersection of tradition and evolving tastes in the brewing world.