IMAGE DISTRIBUTED FOR THE BULLEIT DISTILLING CO. – Exterior of the new Bulleit Distilling Co., Visitor Experience Center on Monday, June 17, 2019 in Shelbyville, K.Y. (Aaron Doster/AP Images for The Bulleit Distilling Co.)
As we inch closer and closer to an official legal recognition of the American single malt whiskey category, major players in Kentucky and Tennessee are producing their own malt whiskey expressions. In late 2022, Jack Daniel’s was the first major U.S. distillery to garn
er national attention from a single malt with its special-edition Twice Barreled American Single Malt whiskey. Kentucky distilleries have since joined in, including Jim Beam, Limestone Branch, New Riff and, now, Bulleit. I expect this list to be much longer by the end of the year.
Single malt is a drastically different style of whiskey compared to the products American whiskey drinkers are accustomed to. Unlike bourbon and rye whiskies,
which require a mash bill containing at least 51% corn or rye respectively, single malt whiskey must be comprised of 100% malted barley. As flavoring grains,
corn and rye impart bold flavors that have a pronounced impact on the spirit’s profile. Bourbon is inherently sweet because of its high corn content, while rye whiskey is typically punchy and spicy. In comparison, the malted barley used in a single malt yields more delicate flavors from the grain.
Single malts made globally derive much of their flavor from other parts of the production process, especially the distillation and maturation phases. In contrast to bourbon and rye whiskey, which typically age in new oak, single malts made outside of the U.S. often mature in used barrels. This practice of aging in barrels that previously contained bourbon, sherry or other spirits imbues the base distillate with distinct flavors driven from the previous contents of the barrel. For example, ex-sherry casks impart richer fruit and spice notes, while ex-bourbon barrels offer subtle sweetness.
The American single malt world is a thrilling place for distilleries to try out unusual variations on a very traditional style of whiskey. Unencumbered by historical or cultural heritage, American distilleries are making single malts in their own distinctive way, employing unconventional production methods that range from the use of beer yeast during the fermentation process, to using mesquite to smoke their barley, to maturing their whisky in local species of oak. Despite numerous production similarities, most American single malts don’t resemble the taste of scotch whisky.
Many American consumers who exclusively drink bourbon and rye tend to hesitate when it comes to single malt whiskies, no matter where in the world they are made. This reluctancy is perhaps due to the reputation of cheap, blended scotch whisky. Bourbon drinkers who want to venture into the world of scotch whisky usually start with a more budget-friendly option.
Given that most entry-level single malt scotch begins at at least $50 for a bottle, a blended product costing half the price quickly becomes a more appealing option for the scotch-curious drinker. However, blended scotch offers a significantly different experience compared to its pure-malt counterpart. The affordability of blended scotch whisky often stems from its young components, higher proportions of grain whiskies, and whiskies from all regions of Scotland, which includes island whiskies often containing a smoky profile.
And that’s where the role of American single malt from Kentucky comes into the picture.
I’ve had the pleasure of sampling single malts from three renowned Kentucky distilleries, famed for their bourbon and rye. Each of these malt expressions carry a similar profile, gentle sips that won’t send a bourbon drinker running for the hills, accustomed as they are to robust flavors derived from corn and rye. They are crafted in new oak, distilled using column stills and embody a blend of light, fruity notes, a dash of spice, and hints of caramel sweetness. The most vital trait being their evasion of intense flavors that could potentially deter a bourbon enthusiast. The striking similarities inspired me to designate them as “Kentucky-style” single malt. I anticipate an influx of such Kentucky-styled single malt whiskies in the market, extending a subtle welcome to bourbon drinkers into the realm of malt whiskey.
Tom Bulleit was the founding father of Bulleit Whiskey, had its inception back in 1995. Over the subsequent 25 years, it retailed whiskey sourced from an eclectic mixture of American distilleries, notably Seagrams and Four Roses. The 90s proved to be a rollercoaster in the whiskey industry, triggering a rapid-fire of mergers, acquisitions and spin-offs. Legacy whiskey brands were trading owners at an uncontrolled speed, and once the dust had settled, Bulleit fell into the hands of the now known Diageo, marking the birth of the “Frontier Whiskey” era. Despite the establishment of its Shelbyville distillery and visitor center in 2017, Bulleit handled its operations as a non-distilling producer. Indeed, even with their own distillation operations in full swing, the company still resorts to contract distilling for a portion of its products.
Bulleit American Single Malt
While Bulleit turned to a select group of old-time sourcing partners for its bourbon and rye whiskies, single malt whiskey is uncharted waters for the majority of Kentucky distilleries. Kentucky Bourbon Hall of Famer and esteemed bourbon author, Chuck Cowdery, brings up a speculative list of candidates, the actual source for Bulleit’s American single malt, however, remains a mystery so far.
Bulleit introduces a gentle, light expression in their marketing campaign for this product. According to the product’s product page, Bulleit American Single Malt is distilled in the same manner as their bourbon, using a copper column still and a secondary distillation in a copper doubler. However, the American Single Malt is distilled to a higher proof than the Bulleit Bourbon, resulting in a lighter, brighter, and more delicate taste profile.
The whiskey, light gold and 90 proof, appears clear and thin in the glass. It has a fresh scent consisting of apples, light brown sugar, some maltiness, honeydew melon, light baking spice, barley sugars, white peaches, and fresh-cut hay. Adding water enhances the fruitiness and brings forth a light floral note. Flavors of caramel apple, toasted oak, vanilla, green grape skins, strawberry jam, nutmeg, and ginger are identified upon tasting. Water amplifies the citrus-driven tartness and reveals a hint of tropical fruits. The tasting ends with Apple Jacks cereal, more caramel, drying oak, ripe stone fruits and a dash of earthiness. With water, the finish becomes grainier and slightly spicier with bran flakes and a touch of white pepper.
Bulleit American Single Malt Whiskey is an ideal choice for the casual bourbon drinker seeking a foray into the domain of American single malts. It showcases a straightforward and enjoyable taste profile with minimal heat, integrating the characteristic fruity and gently sweet flavors found in many single malts without any potentially off-putting smoky notes or extreme sweetness from ex-fortified wine casks. Although the whiskey might not be high in complexity, it’s easily accessible and presents a light, enjoyable flavor set. For those who love bourbon but have reservations about American single malts, this Kentucky-style single malt whiskey could be the key to embarking on your malt journey.
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