Whiskey enthusiasts generally love Heaven Hill’s line of barrel-proof whiskies, which features bourbons that have a high alcohol by volume content. This lineup includes labels from Elijah Craig and Larceny. Last year, the distillery introduced a barrel-proof edition of its Bernheim Original Wheat Whiskey, which might not be as famous as its bourbon, but the latest batch is definitely worth tracking down.
For those who might not be familiar with it, the TTB defines wheat whiskey as needing to be produced from a minimum of 51 percent wheat, which distinguishes it from bourbon’s 51 percent corn, and it must be aged in new charred oak containers (typically barrels). Bernheim’s whiskey meets this requirement with its 51 percent wheat, 37 percent corn, and 12 percent malted barley composition. It’s therefore relatively high in corn content for a wheat whiskey. The standard Bernheim offering carries a seven-year age statement and is bottled at 90 proof. The barrel-proof version is aged for between seven and nine years and is bottled at cask strength. Each batch varies and is released twice a year. The latest batch A224, released in February of 2024, comes in at 125.2 proof.
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As I’ve written about before, higher proof doesn’t mean better whiskey. In fact, it sometimes means worse whiskey. Every brand usually has a barrel-proof expression in its lineup because consumers want undiluted, often unfiltered whiskey. While undiluted whiskey can be more flavorful and allows you to control the strength of your sipping experience, it can be less enjoyable to sip a whiskey nearing hazmat levels above 130 proof, even when diluted with water or ice.
The new Bernheim Barrel Proof, at a 125 proof, shares similar characteristics to Booker’s than A. Smith Bowman. This allows you to enjoy the rich taste without overwhelming your palate. This whiskey contains a high percentage of corn in its mashbill, but it’s the wheat that gives it a delicate sweetness that doesn’t entirely overshadow the spice. It bursts with flavors of orange-chocolate, green apple, cinnamon, vanilla custard, and black pepper. You might also notice the underlying earthy grass notes on the finish. You’d expect some heat from the Bernheim Barrel Proof, but it’s quite manageable and nice to drink, especially when poured over a large ice cube.
There are some cask-strength American wheat whiskeys out there made from 100 percent wheat, like Journeyman’s Corsets, Whips & Whiskey and Dry Fly’s Cask Strength Straight Wheat Whiskey. Bernheim is made in the “barely legal” Kentucky style that Woodford Reserve also employs, despite using slightly more wheat at 52 percent in the mashbill. This high percentage of corn brings the whiskey’s taste closer to bourbon, which is far from a drawback. If you’re an enthusiast of wheated bourbon who can’t forego the Pappy hunt, or simply in pursuit of a smoother barrel-proof experience, or perhaps just enjoy wheat whiskey, this is a bottle worth finding and trying.
100 Consider it worth trading your first-born for
95 – 99 Revered as a trophy for the cabinet
90 – 94 Great: Elicits an animated nod from friends when you pour them a dram
85 – 89 Very Good: Delicious enough to buy, but not quite special enough to chase on the secondary market
80 – 84 Good: More of your everyday drinker, solid and reliable
Below 80 It’s alright: Honestly, we probably won’t waste your time and ours with this
Every week Jonah Flicker tastes the most buzzworthy and interesting whiskeys in the world. Check back each Friday for his latest review.
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