What should winemakers do in the face of a warming planet? Climate change poses significant risks to viticulture globally, prompting a rethinking of practices. In Chile, winemakers are grappling with prolonged droughts affecting irrigation strategies. California’s vintners are dealing with the dual challenge of wildfires and smoke, which can alter grape flavors. Meanwhile, severe frosts in Champagne are impacting grape acidity and flavor, leading some growers to adapt.

A recent study from Cornell University explored three strategies for winegrape producers to cope with rising temperatures: installing shade cloths for grape protection, planting new heat-resilient grape varieties, or relocating to cooler climates. The research discovered that consumers are willing to pay a premium for wines produced using these methods, even if it means sacrificing some brand recognition associated with regions like Napa Valley.

This market study aims to inform growers of available adaptation strategies, associated costs, and consumer perceptions. According to Alex Susskind, a co-author of the study, a producer’s efforts are futile if consumers do not appreciate or understand them.

Among the strategies considered, only two—switching grape varieties or relocating—are readily apparent to consumers. For instance, if a California vineyard adds shade cloths, most consumers would remain uninformed unless noted on the label. Conversely, if a renowned Cabernet Sauvignon vineyard transitions to growing Carignane grapes or relocates to a cooler region, consumers are likely to notice the change.

The study found that consumers were least willing to pay more for wines produced from relocated grapes. However, they still showed a willingness to pay extra for wines made with heat-resilient techniques.

While the study offers valuable insights, it has limitations. It focuses solely on adaptation for winegrape growers, not on mitigation strategies aimed at reducing carbon impact. The survey involved only 300 participants, mostly eco-conscious college graduates under 40, which may not accurately reflect the broader public’s preferences. Researchers noted that consumer enthusiasm for climate-resilient wine could diminish over time.

Despite these limitations, industry experts find the study results promising. Jimena Balic, a winemaking researcher in Chile, highlighted the importance of documenting the economics of climate adaptation. She believes that growers are unlikely to adopt these strategies unless they show clear financial benefits and suggested that adaptation might be implemented gradually.

Greg Jones, an experienced wine climatologist, echoed that educating consumers about viticulture processes and climate impacts is critical. He remains optimistic, hoping the study will spur further research into adaptation strategies and consumer preferences.

Ultimately, the fate of winemaking amidst climate change may depend on how effectively the industry communicates its adaptations and engages consumers in understanding the evolving landscape of wine production.

For more information on the effects of climate change on viticulture, check out the detailed study from Cornell University here.