You wouldn’t ordinarily hear lots of American whiskey enthusiasts grumbling about a barrel proof Kentucky bourbon aged over 10 years, available for a modest $75. However, when it comes to Elijah Craig, one of Heaven Hill’s most adored brands, the complaints are rolling in. These grumbles, in this instance, are justified. Since its initial release in 2013, Elijah Craig Barrel Proof has always had a 12 year age statement until 2023.That’s when Heaven Hill announced that, on a go-forward basis, its thrice-yearly releases would not consistently have a minimum age of 12. Some releases, like the 11-years-and-some months batch B523, which was out last May, would be younger. On the flip side, some would be older than 12 years! Such was the case for the subsequent release, batch C923, released last fall, which was over 13 years old— the oldest ECBP yet! This should be a positive development, correct?
Perhaps. The most recent release, Elijah Craig Barrel Proof Bourbon Batch A124 signifies it’s the first batch of the year, and 124 represents it was released in January 2024, seems to confirm the critic’s fears. Coming in at 10 years and 9 months, it’s considerably younger than twelve years. At 59.5% ABV, the proof is at an all-time low by ECBP standards. Does this signal the start of a downward trend? Are things going downhill for Elijah Craig? Before rushing to judgment, it’s worth taking the time to actually, you know, taste the bourbon.
Rest assured, the sky isn’t falling.
In actuality, what we’re dealing with… is an outstanding bourbon. Putting aside changes in age and proof, the same combination of 78% corn, 12% malted barley, and 10% rye are used, still aged in Char No. 3 new oak barrels, and yet remains non-chill filtered. This batch unpacks candy-like, vibrant fruit notes that transform into caramel, cinnamon, brown sugar, and a touch of chocolate tastes. Although it may be slightly less viscous than previous batches, it still gives a satisfying fullness to your palate. The lower proof actually makes it more suitable for cocktails—I can vouch it makes a knockout high-powered Manhattan.
It’s easy to question the motives of Elijah Craig/Heaven Hill. Perhaps the change was made to reduce costs or conceal dwindling supplies, rather than to give the blenders more control to distinguish each batch from the last. However, increased flexibility is the end result. If batch A124 is interpreted as a disaster, indicating the start of a decline, a single taste refutes this. Some people may hanker for the days of 12-year-old ECBP with proof over 130. I wouldn’t mind having more of those myself. But I can’t find it in my heart to criticize a bourbon that is this top-notch at such a reasonable cost (still recommended retail price of $74.99). And hey, if it’s not to your taste, another batch will be available in four months. That’s another great aspect of Elijah Craig.
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