Vodka is a familiar, versatile choice for cocktails, but it isn’t the world’s top-selling spirit. That title belongs to baijiu, a traditional Chinese spirit whose popularity in China drives its enormous global sales.

Baijiu is made from grains such as sorghum, rice, wheat, corn, and millet. Its ingredients and production methods vary by region, creating a range of styles commonly described as strong aroma, light aroma, and sauce aroma—the last named for savory notes reminiscent of soy sauce. An estimated 10 billion liters are consumed each year, and baijiu production exceeds that of vodka and whiskey combined.

Traditionally, baijiu is served at room temperature and drunk neat, often in small shots shared after a toast. But bartenders are increasingly mixing it into cocktails. Milder versions can stand in for vodka, while more aromatic varieties bring a distinctive flavor to drinks such as an orange crush, lemon drop, Michelada, or Long Island iced tea.

Baijiu is made using solid-state fermentation: steamed grains ferment in a relatively dry mixture with a yeast-and-mold starter, then are steam-distilled. This differs from vodka production, which generally ferments ingredients in a liquid mash. Baijiu is matured and blended before bottling.

The spirit is becoming easier to find in the United States, with some national liquor retailers, Chinese grocery stores, and Asian specialty shops carrying it. Well-known producers include Moutai, Wuliangye, and Yanghe. If vodka cocktails are starting to feel repetitive, baijiu offers a distinctly different option—and an authentic taste of a spirit that leads the world in sales.

Read more about baijiu’s growing presence in the U.S.