If you’re familiar with the brand Cutwater, it’s likely because of theircanned cocktails, a product category that saw an unexpected boon during the global pandemic in 2020. I’m not an expert on the topic, and during the Covid lockdown, I spent time making cocktails from scratch with freshly sanitized ingredients. However, among the ones I sampled, Cutwater’s stuck out as being top-tier. It’s a challenge to make a well-crafted mai tai from fresh ingredients, let alone one that retains its flavor after weeks or even months in a can, but their mai tai was impressively tasty. Later, I tried Cutwater’s canned White Russian which was equally enjoyable.

However, Cutwater’s history extends beyond canned cocktails. The San Diego-based company was established in 2017, but its roots go back another ten years as the spirits component of the Ballast Point Brewery. In 2015, when Ballast Point was acquired by Constellation Brands, the spirits division was split off and later revived as Cutwater Spirits. Today, the company operates a largedistillery/bar/restaurant in San Diego’s Miramar area.

Wait a minute, Cutwater has a distillery? So this company producing canned cocktails creates its own spirits? And co-founder Yuseff Cherney is the master distiller? For a New Yorker like myself, this was a surprising discovery. Not only do they use their spirits in the canned cocktails (and their frozen cocktail pops), they also bottle and sell it in varieties ranging from rum, gin to herbal liqueur. They take pride in the many awards won by their spirits, and to my surprise, I realized I’ve tasted and scored their products in various contests. I particularly liked their unaged rum, their tequilas were respectable, but their rye didn’t win me over.

Indeed, Cutwater Spirits is a major player in the world of spirits, coming right out of San Diego.

I had never tried Cutwater Devil’s Share Bourbon, their highest-end expression, with a suggested retail price of $115. If you can find it, that is, as availability is said to be limited even in California. The mashbill is an interesting one — 75% non-GMO corn, 15% malted barley, and 10% malted wheat. Usually a wheated bourbon uses wheat as the secondary grain. To use it as a tertiary grain after the barley… that’s different. Aged for at least four years in new American oak barrels, it’s bottled at 46% ABV.

On the nose it’s a little hot, with notes of brown sugar, cinnamon, and rubbing alcohol. On the palate the cinnamon comes through again, accompanied by butterscotch, vanilla and oak. It drinks a tad hotter than its proof; a little water tamps down the heat but also dulls the flavor profile a bit, so I preferred it neat. It makes a pleasant, lightly astringent Manhattan, and a perfectly fine whiskey sour.

“This bourbon is not defined by geography, but by taste,” says the Cutwater website, and I suppose that makes sense, since as far as I know there’s no distinctive San Diego style of whiskey. Although, with 18 distilleries and counting in the city, according to the San Diego Guild of Distillers, one may be emerging as I write this. News travels slowly to us East Coast craft spirits connoisseurs. Can you procure better bourbons for significantly less money? Absolutely. But for the time being, Cutwater reigns supreme in San Diego whiskey. On my next visit, I’ll certainly be visiting the distillery and savoring a Devil’s Share whiskey sour — if they aren’t only selling canned cocktails at the bar.