Stumbras Premium Organic Vodka takes home the top prize at this year’s New York World Spirits Competition

Earlier this year a panel of expert judges convened in a nondescript hotel convention hall in Brooklyn to assess merit across all major categories of spirit. It was part of the annual New York World Wine & Spirits Competition, which in just several iterations has already grown into one of the city’s premiere tasting events.

We’ve spent significant time covering the top-rated whiskies from that competition. It included several jaw-dropping surprises, all of which are worthy of exploration—if you fancy aged spirit. Now we’re going to venture into the realm of vodka. But first we must address the elephant in the room: how does one define greatness in a category that is flavorless by design?

Well, for starters, vodka isn’t flavorless, exactly. It is often conflated with neutral grain spirit, but that’s a vast oversimplification. And an outdated one. Vodka doesn’t even have to be made from grain at all. It can be distilled from vegetables, fruit, honey, starches—we’ve seen compelling examples come from all sorts of base ingredients. And it certainly doesn’t need to be neutral in flavor or aroma. If you have doubts, you ought to consider cracking open a bottle of the very expression that the New York Wine & Spirits Competition dubbed the best of 2023: Stumbras Premium Organic Vodka.

The first organic vodka to ever be distilled in Lithuania adheres to strict production guidelines. The process begins with wheat cultivated in an organic farm nestled deep within this Baltic nation. Post distillation, the spirit undergoes a proprietary filtration method using linen, reputed to enhance the vodka’s smoothness and slightly viscous nature.

There might be some controversy as to whether these unique characteristics amount to simply a marketing trick, but the undeniable fact remains that the base ingredient, the wheat, imparts a delightful sweetness to the consuming experience. This sweetness persistently lingers even after consumption, enticing further contemplation of its characteristic flavor. A flavor that is surprisingly palpable in vodka.

We should note that Stumbras also produces a flavored vodka, but we’re discussing pure vodka in this context. Of interest, the brand’s cranberry variant garnered recognition for its excellent bitter tones at a spirits contest in New York. No surprise there, considering the company’s over 115-year-long heritage in perfecting its craft.

The award-winning organic vodka is readily accessible on American store shelves, priced reasonably at around $20 a bottle. Its entire sensory profile marks it as an ideal accompaniment to tonic or soda, served over ice. Adding lemon or lime further perfects the balance, with the tartness of citrus offsetting the wheat’s inherent sweetness in the vodka.

Or do the unthinkable: try the 80-proof spirit neat. Maybe you’ll be able to call out some of the same grassy aromatics in the liquid that won over those contest judges back in Brooklyn. Perhaps you, too, will call it one of the more interesting vodka on shelves today. But what you won’t be able to do is call it flavorless.

LITHUANIA – NOVEMBER 25: Mill, Open air ethnographic museum, Rumsiskes, Dzukija, Lithuania. (Photo by DeAgostini/Getty Images)