Every morning at Hacienda Santa Ana in Bayamón, Puerto Rico, a range of activities can be seen. The master cooper of Ron del Barrlito might be at work, fussing over barrels and revamping old sherry casks, a routine for the past 57 years. Concurrently, the master blender is probably withdrawing samples from rum-filled sherry casks of various ages between 3-40 years, meticulously assessing their progress for future blending plans of the brand’s products. It’s not unfamiliar to see groups of chatty Greater Antillean Grackles around, perching on the historic windmill or the vintage delivery truck. The setting is almost timeless, with an old-world appeal few present-day distilleries can replicate.

One of the reasons behind this timelessness is the absence of any ultra-modern industrial column still; no rum is even locally distilled. Ron del Barrilito sources its basic, unaged column still rum from the Dominican Republic, then begins the lengthy process of evolving it into its distinctive product. This approach has remained unwavering at the site for 144 years since its product first launched in 1880.

Such ideological steadfastness is nearly unthinkable in today’s fast-paced spirits industry, notable for rapidly cycling product launches. However, Ron del Barrilito has steadfastly maintained a single flagship rum (3 Stars) for its 144-year history and intends to continue in this vein. This decision reflects the relentless dedication showcased by Pedro Fernández, the company’s founder, whose lineage has guided the brand through more than a century of rum production.

The land upon which Ron del Barrilito is produced, Hacienda Santa Ana, has been a part of the Fernández family since Fernando Fernández arrived from Spain in 1787. Initially, sugarcane cultivation was their primary pursuit, long before rum production commenced. This order is ironically reversed today as Puerto Rico’s commercial sugarcane industry has unfortunately dwindled. The family’s interest in distilled spirits only kindled when Fernando’s grandson, Pedro Fernández, pursued engineering studies in France during the 1860s.

Pedro was enraptured by the complex process of making French brandy and cognac, learning the intricate blending and aging techniques that resulted in exceptional batches. His return from France to Puerto Rico marked the beginning of a rum revolution. He started aging massive amounts of rum in Spanish sherry casks, later blending it with smaller pieces of rum that had been infused with local stone fruit and spices. After ten years, this led to the creation of his commercially successful venture, which he named Ron del Barrilito.

The flagship product of Ron del Barrilito is the same bottle of rum today, the Ron del Barrilito Three Stars. The rum is a blend of column still rums, aged from 6-10 years, all in former oloroso sherry casks, fortified with a bit of macerated rum which has soaking on a secret assortment of local fruits and spices. Rather than being labelled as “spiced rum,”, the rum is subtly enhanced by these elements, complimenting the interplay between the casks of varying ages. Two identical casks filled on the same day and aged for a decade side by side can yield drastically differing profiles, reflecting the intricate dance of air, leakage, evaporation, and oak interaction.

The sole product of Ron del Barrilito for its initial forty years was the 3 Stars, until Prohibition was enforced in the U.S. in 1920. This halted local rum production for over a decade, an especially challenging period for the rum brand. The end of Prohibition in 1933 saw the launch of Barrilito’s second rum, the 2 Stars, a lightly aged blend of 3-5 year old rum, which is now a common choice in cocktail concoctions.

With the 2 Stars, the company regained its market presence quicker than expected. But still, they chose to prioritize the original process of aging and blending, a testament to Pedro Fernández’s adherence to the old methods. After prohibition, they could have taken the route of selling unaged white rum, but chose to exercise patience. The company, led by Edmundo Fernández, stuck to its signature style and principles. Hence, Edmundo prepared a special barrel in 1952 which he instructed to only be opened when Puerto Rico gains independence from the U.S. This barrel, known as “La Doña”, still waits in the warehouse, unopened for over seven decades, symbolizing the company’s dedication and national pride.

For almost one and a half century, running a family enterprise through the national Prohibition and impressive technological advancements was indeed a phenomenal achievement. Established when there were only 38 states in the U.S., during the Wild West era, Ron del Barrilito has continued to flourish till the 2010s. Despite this, the pressures of modernity and a dearth of heirs under the strain of preserving their traditional legacy, the fate of rum production at Hacienda Santa Ana hung in the balance.

The real fact is that for all those years, Ron del Barrilito has always been managed as an expression of the founder’s love for rum, more than a pursuit for profit. The members of Fernández family were more inclined to ensure the quality of their product than how much it could sell for, a trait which did not motivate brand growth. As a result, the annual production volumes of Ron del Barrilito 2 Stars and 3 Stars swung wildly, ranging from as low as 5,000 cases to as many as 15,000. This inconsistency similarly affected its distribution, with sporadic shipments to the Caribbean, Mexico and the U.S. This led to a lot of speculations about the brand, reducing its capacity to leverage its rich history, and remained a labour of love.

Meanwhile, the state of hacienda and its ancillary facilities, blending facilities and machinery, began to deteriorate. The son of Edmundo, “Don Fernando” Fernandez, as he advanced in his career, found himself grappling with an increasingly complex economical situation. For the first time since the Prohibition, contemplations of closing or selling Ron del Barrilito, a topic he had sternly avoided in his life, started surfacing as the brand faced an existential crisis.

However, in 2017, led by Joaquin Bacardi of Bacardi Ltd., a group of Puerto Rican investors came forward to acquire Edmundo B. Fernández Inc. with a vision to nurture the legacy for future generations. In a twist of fate, the huge Bacardi distillery campus is just seven miles from the small, traditional Hacienda Santa Ana. But in this scenario, the Bacardi offspring joined hands with no intentions to engulf Ron del Barrilito into their vast corporate portfolio. On the contrary, they are committed to expanding and upgrading the facilities at Hacienda Santa Ana, while reserving the precious methods and independence of Pedro Fernández. Keeping the tradition of multi-generational leadership, Joaquin Bacardi’s sons Eduardo and Guillermo have assumed positions of strategic and production leaders, with the latter directly studying under Master Blender Luis Planas in a preparatory step to head the crucial task of blending batches of 3 Stars in future.

Indeed, Bacardi’s intervention probably came at the perfect moment for Ron del Barrilito, as the refurbishments and enhancements to the premises likely supported the facility in surviving Hurricane Maria’s destruction in late 2017, a phenomenon that could have otherwise marked the brand’s downfall. Now, with a new $2 million visitor center that has already played host to tens of thousands of guests since its 2019 inauguration, Ron del Barrilito is, at last, increasing production (40,000 cases expected in 2023), consolidating foreign export markets and enjoying a resurgence as one of Puerto Rico’s most cherished indigenous brands. Wander around San Juan, venture into its bars and you’ll see it positioned with reverence, ready for its signature whisky Old-Fashioned.

concurrently, the brand has launched its first two new offerings since the 1930s, the super exclusive Four Stars and Five Stars, not as a manipulative tactic for publicity or income but as a necessary step to utilize many of the Hacienda’s old casks which had been aging for years without a planned destination, at risk of being completely wasted. Ironically, without some level of past negligence, these brands wouldn’t exist today. Ron del Barrilito casks were never meant to have been aging in the warehouses for 35 years, but they now represent the limited supply of Five Stars available globally. Nor will the company effortlessly produce more Four Stars or Five Stars once these bottles finish, due to the production delay, one these are sold out, the brands will effectively go into hibernation, possibly for decades. The arrival of the segunda edición will indeed be a remarkable day for the company.

When one visits Puerto Rico, it’s impossible not to notice that it is intrinsically a territory of contrasts, with a spirit equally influenced by the English and Spanish-speaking worlds. Petrol stations sell petrol by the liter, yet grocery stores sell milk by the gallon. Speedometers indicate speed in miles per hour, but distances are measured in kilometers. It’s appropriate that in such a place, Ron del Barrilito invests 144 years in producing what many deem the island’s finest rum, yet never expands beyond a humble family business. Until now, that is, from 2024 onwards, the globe will become increasingly aware of Pedro Fernández’s 1880 dream. If you wish to sample what was consumed then, all you need to do is uncork a bottle of Ron del Barrilito 3 Stars. Here’s raising a toast to the next hundred years of rum.

Jim Vorel is a Paste staff writer and resident alcohol connoisseur. You can follow him on Twitter for more drink related articles.

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