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Two years ago, we reported on the announcement that the TTB (Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau) had proposed a legally binding definition for the American single malt category. Well, that still hasn’t happened, although there has been a recent push to get things moving. That includes the campaign by the American Single Malt Whiskey Commission and Distilled Spirits Council to collect 1,000 letters in support of the new guidelines. Despite the delay, distilleries continue to release American single malts, and one of the best new-school Kentucky bourbon distilleries just launched its second expression.

American single malt has been around for decades, with craft distilleries like Westland and Westward exclusively focusing on the category and legacy distilleries like the James B. Beam Distilling Co and Jack Daniel’s more recently getting in on the action. New Riff has been around for just about a decade, and for years its focus was on making bourbon and rye whiskey which it released as bottled-in-bond expressions (at least four years old, exactly 100 proof, the product of one distillery and one distillation season). In January, we reported on the distillery’s first single malt release, the excellent Sour Mash Single Malt. Well, that whiskey is back for another run, but there are some differences.

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The new version of the single malt is crafted from the same 100 percent barley mashbills, featuring varieties such as Golden Promise, Maris Otter, and Scottish peated barley, plus two beer-inspired mashbills derived from classic barleywine and Belgian Quadrupel recipes. The original release comprised barrels aged for around seven to eight years, however, the latest iteration includes nine-year-old barrels. Additionally, it integrates Madeira cask-aged malt in the blend for a novel taste profile. “This year’s blend has matured in a manner that remains recognizable to aficionados of last year’s single malt, notably in the harmony of sherry cask and peaty-smoky flavors despite the alterations in the internal blend,” stated Jay Erisman, co-founder and vice president of New Riff. “Actually, I deem it to be even more cohesive and well-integrated.”

While we have yet to sample this latest release, we are hopeful that it matches the quality of last year’s edition. According to Bryon Martin, the sensory manager, the official tasting notes include rich, dark, and zesty citrus fruits on the palate, complementing earthy, savory, and smoky undertones. The whiskey is presented at a strong 114.5 proof and remains non-chill filtered. The 2024 Sour Mash Single Malt will be available from tomorrow at the distillery’s gift shop (SRP $70), and subsequently at online retailers in the coming weeks. It is also possible to purchase the previous version from Seelbach’s, while the complete New Riff range is currently on sale at ReserveBar.

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