This scratch-built wooden PC build features a Jack Daniel’s bottle and glass as part of the water-cooling loop, which is filled with whiskey-colored coolant.
Published: Feb 21, 2024
Is the water-cooling loop in this scratch-built wooden PC build really filled with whiskey? Well, obviously not, but we absolutely love what PC builder Craig Ferrie has done with this Jack Daniel’s gaming PC. The wooden case itself is a marvelous bit of craftsmanship, but the centerpiece is the Jack Daniel’s bottle and glass tumbler at the front – these parts genuinely work as part of the water-cooling system, which is filled with whiskey-colored coolant.
Thanks to our rapidly growing PC building Facebook page, we’ve seen many custom gaming PCs, from mods based on existing case designs to scratch PC builds. You can even submit yours for consideration right here. Here we talk to Craig about how he created this fantastic whiskey-themed Jack Daniel’s PC, which he calls Jack Daniel’s On the Rocks.
PCGamesN: Firstly, why Jack Daniel’s?
Craig: Honestly, I just wanted to do something different! Jack Daniel’s is arguably the most well-known whiskey.
What sort of look were you trying to achieve, and what were your whiskey-related design cues?
Initiating the process, the initial requirement was a wooden structure providing adequate space at the back for the graphics card to be mounted and placement of the water-cooling system, while maintaining the theme of a whiskey barrel. Of course, I had the option of a regular whiskey barrel, but that would take away the originality.
Could you explain the type of woods you used for the main framework, and your method of cutting, preparing, and finishing them to attain this aesthetic?
To tell you the truth, I didn’t really plan. While I was disposing of a double bed frame, I was looking at the slats and an idea sparked. I had no prior woodworking experience, and I haven’t done a self-build previously, especially of this magnitude.
I made a start with the wooden slats by cutting them, without putting too much thought into measuring the initial process. I utilized a jigsaw to cut the slats into uniform sizes, smoothed out all the edges, glued the slats on a basic frame using wood-glue, and then I screwed them together.
Once the wood was of the right consistency and quality, I applied mahogany wood stain with the help of an ordinary household sponge. Interestingly, I had to go through this process almost thrice to acquire the perfect shade. The wood was uneven in certain areas which resulted in gaps between the slats. I used wood filler to close these gaps and later applied stain over it to achieve uniformity in color. The frame was made from pine and the flat top, bottom, and middle section was birch plywood.
Did you entirely build the case from scratch?
Yes, in fact, I had given up on the idea of case modding roughly a year ago as I was bored of working with the usual black boxes. They more or less remain the same with a few decorative lights added sporadically. What I wanted this time was pure originality.
How did you manage to carve out the logos and the No.7?
For this project, I utilized 3mm-thick birch plywood, which I cut personally with my own laser cutter/engraver, a vital tool in my personal business. The pieces were subsequently stained to blend seamlessly with the remainder of the case, and applied using wood glue.
Can you share what additional materials were used in this build?
In this particular case, it is entirely composed of wood – there are no additional supports, it’s purely wooden in nature.
Could you explain the process of creating the authentic-looking Jack Daniel’s logos and inscriptions on both the front and the side?
Working with a limited amount of wood slats presented a challenge, but with some tests on paper before moving to the actual panels, I was able to find the right balance for the laser engraving. I tuned down the speed and turned up the power for the laser, resulting in a pleasing outcome.
Have you been able to recreate the appearance of whiskey with the cooling solution?
Put simply, it isn’t whiskey! It’s EK CryoFuel coolant, which I obtained from EK, who also provided me with a CryoFuel dye package. Achieving this amber hue involved a unique blend of colorants. To create a nice green color, you have to mix blue and yellow, and then gradually add red to get the deep amber shade akin to whiskey.
The Jack Daniel’s bottle positioned at the forefront, seemingly pouring ‘whiskey’ into the glass, draws attention. Aside from the dramatic effect, does it also serve as a reservoir?
I frequently get asked about the Jack Daniel’s bottle feature on social media. Rest assured, it is completely integrated into the loop. We’ve implemented several filters to prevent any debris from entering the loop and there are ‘non-return’ valves beneath the shroud which stop the coolant from flowing back to the loop’s lowest points (inspired by a kitchen sink).
Moreover, there’s a second reservoir bottle that can be swapped in and out for use at home. It is sealed, providing the opportunity to use the machine for gaming without concern over dust accumulation and evaporation.
Would you explain the process of planning the cable routing and how you managed to match the cable colors with the wooden design?
When I initiated work on the case, my aim was to achieve a classy, clean look for this build. I contacted Matt at CableMod, a friend, and requested him to create some cables with exact length for this build. He processed my request successfully, shipping them to me in a few weeks.
The usual cable combs just weren’t going to do the trick, hence I created my own 9mm-thick combs that would adequately adhere to the casing. Regarding the cable color, CableMod offers an excellent online platform that presents an accurate depiction of the color selections they have, this made the process much simpler.
Can you tell us how the wooden plate for the GPU waterblock was created?
At first, my plan was to use EK’s Lignum Walnut block, but unfortunately, things didn’t go as planned. So, I had to create a wooden panel that would fit on an EK Acetyl+Nickel waterblock for this card. Once I got to know I’d be using the EK Vector Strix block, I got its backplate measurements, and designed a Strix/EK logo combination template for etching on my laptop. I sent it to the cutter, and stained them to match the casing.
What’s the connection point for the monitor, keyboard, and mouse?
Three 15cm USB extensions are braided in the top middle of the computer case. These extensions run from the motherboard to the top panel. I utilize an 8-port USB hub which means a solitary free USB port would be enough for my needs. The monitor is directly connected to the graphics card. An interesting note is that I possess a 15cm HDMI extension which I considered adding to this build, but the decision is pending as I am trying to determine the aesthetic orientation of my computer case.
Could you elaborate on the planning and arrangement of the hardline water-cooling tubes?
Surely, my aim was to make the entire setup appear slick, appealing, and sophisticated from the start. Fundamentally, only two runs of tubing can be observed, namely ‘to’ and ‘from’. However, the system gets a bit intricate under the shroud with return valvues among other components. Coming to tube bending and cutting, I initially mark the tube where it needs to be bent, and after that I usually rely on my visual judgement. Tools that I use for cutting include a rotary cutter and a deburring tool.
Could you explain how the airflow system functions?
Cooler Master fans, three in a unit known as the SF360R, are located at the top of the case. Additionally, there’s another vent located underneath for the power supply. Nevertheless, the fact that it’s an open-air case negates the necessity for extra airflow — this setup operates with remarkable coolness.
Did you encounter any substantial challenges?
Indeed, there were numerous hurdles such as the case’s legs. It was perplexing whether to go for custom-made ones or retain the original wood. However, sticking to the frame’s wood material seems to have worked in the end. Another significant issue was the fear of leaks. The issue is that this build lacks an easy-access loop; it’s absolutely not simple to drain. The return valves do not permit water to go back, rendering traditional drainage almost hopeless.
What was the duration it took you to finish this build from the beginning to the end?
It roughly took three months from inception to completion. This duration took into account planning, construction, and the waiting time for parts. Undeniably, the pandemic affected courier services and order deliveries.
Looking back, do you feel content with the final product, or do you wish you had carried out some aspects differently?
I am largely contented with the final output. Are there elements I would reconsider? Definitely, however, that is a normal occurrence when you are venturing into new designs. In future, I may look into creating a loop that’s easier to handle. Also, I will explore the use of higher-quality wood if I happen to replicate this idea.
One can’t help but admire your extraordinary PC build, Craig- it’s truly spectacular. The fact that you devised a handcrafted wood case is a phenomenal feat in itself, not to mention including a Jack Daniel’s bottle and a glass tumbler as part of a water-cooling loop is just breathtaking.
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