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After years of being in the shadows, Virginia winemakers are finally getting the attention they deserve.

Jared Soares

If someone shouted “Virginia” in the middle of a word-association game, “fine wine” might not be your first response. Even some of the state’s winemakers confessed to me that they had, in the past, found many Virginian wines forgettable — or, in some cases, undrinkable. Oh, how times have changed.

Jared Soares

Virginia’s reputation as an underrated wine region has ultimately become one of its greatest strengths. While attention might have traditionally been drawn to places like Napa Valley or the Bordeaux region in France, Virginia’s winemaking is carving out its own unique identity right in between these famous locations. This emerging profile is largely driven by a new generation of wine producers focused on crafting a distinct style exclusive to the area.

Jared Soares

The wine industry in Virginia has seen remarkable growth over the decades: from about 50 wineries in the mid-1990s to approximately 300 today, covering over 4,000 acres of land. This expansion contributes over $1.7 billion to the local economy, benefiting not just from wine sales but also through a thriving tourism sector influenced by wineries, hotels, and dining establishments. This led me to explore whether Virginia’s wine narrative is as rich in quality as it is in quantity. The popular adage “Virginia Is for Lovers” might ring even truer for wine enthusiasts.

For the initial stage of my wine exploration, I stayed at the Salamander Middleburg, situated less than 50 miles west of Washington, D.C. Middleburg isn’t only a hub for wine lovers but is also central to Virginia’s horse riding tradition. The Salamander resort, an epitome of grandeur and old-world charm, pays tribute to this equestrian lifestyle with its horse-themed decor and activities. As I observed guests in sophisticated equestrian attire, I pondered if I had stepped into the setting of a Ralph Lauren fashion show.

Jared Soares

But you don’t need to be a member of the horsey set to enjoy a stay at Salamander. There’s a gym, a spa, bikes available to borrow — and an entire wine region on your doorstep to explore.

“In the mid 1990s, there were about 50 wineries in Virginia; there are now around 300, with more than 4,000 acres under cultivation.”

I began my journey just about a mile down the road at Boxwood Estate Winery. John Kent Cooke, former owner and president of Washington, D.C.’s NFL team, has always had a love for Bordeaux, so at his estate, 26 acres are planted with Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Sauvignon Blanc, and other Bordelais varieties. In partnership with French wine consultant Stéphane Derenoncourt, the Boxwood team has created a crisp Sauvignon Blanc, as well as its locally known Topiary blend of Cabernet Franc, Merlot, and Petit Verdot — all varieties that express the terroir of Virginia.

During my wine tastings, French wine making consistently emerged as a significant topic. “White Burgundy is my go-to,” mentioned Jim Law, the founder of Linden Vineyards. Located a short 35-minute journey west of Middleburg, this winery is celebrated for its distinctive single-vineyard wines of Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, and Bordeaux-style blends.

Jared Soares

The name Jim Law was frequently mentioned among winemakers, signaling his stature as one of the most influential figures in Virginia winemaking. Known for his willingness to experiment with new grape varieties and various plantings on different soils and slopes, Law was deeply engaged during my visit in mid-September. With grapes being harvested, it was a critical and busy period at the vineyard.

Law appreciates the unpolished charm of his winery. An Ohio native, he is profoundly invested in the agricultural aspect of winemaking, focusing on “understanding the personality and nuance” of each hill on his property. His deep emotional connection to his vineyards was evident. This connection was palpable when I sampled the Linden Hardscrabble Chardonnay later in my travel—reflecting the Burgundian influence in its balanced flavors, yet distinctly showcasing the unique character of the rocky slopes and granite soils of Hardscrabble, one of Linden’s three vineyards.

Jared Soares

Beyond his own vines, Law praised the diversity and experimental nature of Virginia wine making as a whole. There is room for everyone to do their own thing, he told me.

Rutger de Vink, a Law protégé, is another winemaker who is steadfast in his own practice. After years of searching, de Vink, a former Marine, found the ideal spot to grow grapes: on a former cattle farm in the foothills of the Blue Ridge Mountains. He laughed heartily when he shared that a farmer had teased him for “buying a pile of goddamn rocks.”

De Vink struck what can only be described as a viticultural jackpot with his rocky vineyard, garnering attention in June when he announced that RdV Vineyards had been acquired by Eutopia Estates, a distinguished French entity owned by the Bouygues family. This company owns esteemed estates like Château Montrose and Château Tronquoy in Bordeaux. Renamed Lost Mountain, in honor of its situated historic knoll surveyed by George Washington—which also inspired the name of RdV’s renowned flagship wine—the vineyard nods to its rich history and setting near the Blue Ridge Mountains.

The rebranding hasn’t altered the vineyard’s inherent character, which continues to form the essence of the wine. This terroir provides the wine with a distinctive identity and depth, aligning with de Vink’s goal to craft an “American Grand Cru.” The reputation of Lost Mountain’s wines is solidly established, boasting a lengthy waitlist of two years for its prestigious $225 blend comprising Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Merlot.

Aiming to experience this illustrious wine firsthand, I joined the waitlist and also scheduled a tour and tasting at the vineyard. During the visit, it’s possible to meet sommelier Karl Kuhn and original winemaker Joshua Grainer, who are typically available to impart their extensive expertise to visitors. Grainer, holding the prestigious Master of Wine title from the Institute of Masters of Wine in the U.K.—a rare distinction held by only 416 individuals globally—emphasized the vineyard’s philosophy, “We don’t need people to come through the door, but we want to share the experience.”

Jared Soares

Upon my arrival at Early Mountain Vineyards, located in Madison near Shenandoah National Park, I was greeted by a vibrant mix of guests. There were lively senior citizens, a mother relaxing on the deck with her baby and pet dog, and a group of colleagues enjoying a meal together. Early Mountain Vineyards aims to attract visitors not just for its wine but also for its full-service restaurant and ample event space. Spanning over 55 acres, its founder Jean Case, a former AOL executive and philanthropist, ambitiously embarked on this venture.

The wine list was impressive, showcasing a diverse range of 11 different types of grapes. Virginia’s varied geological features, including soils like limestone, sandstone, and granite, contribute to the unique flavor profiles of the grapes cultivated here.

Jared Soares

“Mountainside vineyards are key to the quality of Virginia wines because they are well-draining and provide good airflow,” Early Mountain winemaker Maya Hood White explained. Her Quaker Run Cabernet Franc 2020 exemplifies this. It embodies the elegance and classical style of Chinon—Cabernet Franc from France’s Loire Valley—yet it includes a hint of New World richness and energy.

“The state has some geological advantages that make it a hospitable landscape for a seemingly endless parade of grapes.”

The last person I expected to meet during my trip was a winemaker originally from Piedmont, in the mountains of northern Italy—renowned for the distinguished Barolo. Despite his family’s background in the industry, Luca Paschina was determined to forge his own path in winemaking. At Barboursville Vineyards, situated in Virginia’s own Piedmont area, roughly 30 minutes northeast of Charlottesville, he discovered the ideal location to accomplish this. The winery, owned by the Zonin family, famed for their estates across Italy, allows Paschina to merge Old World and New World tastes, complemented by the Zonins’ shared passion for innovative winemaking.

Paschina’s heritage is also reflected in Barboursville’s range of offerings. He produces a refined Vermentino, a Nebbiolo, and Paxxito, a dessert wine made in the “Passito” style using air-dried Moscato Ottonel and Vidal grapes. For those wishing to immerse themselves fully in the Barboursville experience, bookings are available at the charming 1804 Inn and the exquisite wines can be enjoyed alongside handmade pastas at the Palladio Restaurant.

Jared Soares

Barboursville is the winery where I most strongly felt the richness and complexity of Virginia’s history. The ruins of a building designed by founding father Thomas Jefferson remain on the property, and a portrait of him hangs in the barrel room. As a descendant of enslaved people, my feelings on Jefferson, a well-documented enslaver of human beings from Africa, are complicated — to put it mildly. I’m sure he could never have imagined that someone like me would one day be involved in sharing the beauty of wine. But I share his love of the fermented grape and can’t ignore the significant role he played in the state’s wine-making history.

Jefferson established two vineyards on his Monticello estate and cofounded Virginia’s first commercial wine company. Adjacent to the portrait, a placard reads: “We could, in the United States, make as great a variety of wines as are made in Europe, not exactly of the same kind but doubtless as good.”

Jared Soares

I departed from Barboursville, feeling sated by the local cuisine and wine, and my head filled with new knowledge. Upon arriving at Keswick Hall, a mere 25 minutes away, a sense of calm washed over me.

Built in 1912, Keswick Hall has transitioned through several phases, including a private mansion, a country club boasting an 18-hole golf course by Pete Dye, and eventually into a hotel under the design influence of Laura Ashley’s husband. The estate was taken over in 2017 by co-chairs Molly and Robert Hardie of H7 Holdings and underwent extensive renovations, reopening in 2021 with a new annex that expanded its capacity to 80 rooms. The luxurious Duxiana mattresses and Frette linens afforded me a worry-free night’s sleep, while a soothing Rose Diamond Radiance Facial in the spa enhanced my peaceful state.

The culinary highlight of Keswick is the Marigold by Jean-Georges, helmed by the renowned Jean-Georges Vongerichten. The restaurant’s design features rustic timber and transparent elements which frame the spectacular scenery, and its menu revitalizes traditional dishes, including a truffle pizza and cauliflower with turmeric tahini and pistachios. Notably impressive is the wine list, showcasing superb local selections, among which the Linden Vineyard’s Hardscrabble Chardonnay stood out, a beverage I eagerly anticipated since my encounter with Law, proving to be delightfully balanced and refreshing with a persistent finish.

Jared Soares

The final day of my brief yet intense exploration of Virginia’s wine culture began with a visit to Michael Shaps Wineworks, located in Charlottesville. Originally from New York, Shaps pairs his charming confidence with impressive winemaking skills. Like many other Virginia winemakers with a penchant for Burgundy, Shaps takes it further: he trained in winemaking in that region and also possesses a winery, Maison Shaps, in Meursault, France. Besides producing Virginia wines that include familiar varieties like Chardonnay, Viognier, and Merlot, Shaps also enjoys creating new blends. He produces a playfully named sweet wine, Raisin d’Être, utilizing grapes dried in converted tobacco barns. Moreover, he has a special interest in Petit Manseng, a robust white grape from southwestern France, which he cultivates for its flavors of grilled pineapple and mango, describing it as “bulletproof” in the fields.

Jared Soares

I then traveled westward from Charlottesville to Veritas, situated in Afton. The atmosphere was lively: on a warm Friday afternoon, the place was bustling. Over the course of my two-hour stay, I witnessed a diverse crowd including bachelorette parties, couples, families, and colleagues, all converging in the spacious tasting room and outdoor area. I also noted ongoing preparations for a wedding.

Jared Soares

It’s evident that the Hodson family has invested heavily in both the expansive venue and the quality of the wines. This commitment is showcased in selections like the Scintilla sparkling Chardonnay, crafted using the classic champagne method, and the deeply flavorful Petit Verdot. I participated in a thoughtfully arranged wine and food pairing, where the Reserve Chardonnay was served alongside smoked salmon with caper relish and preserved lemon.

Jared Soares

My discussions with local winemakers reveal that innovation is central to Virginia’s wine scene. While they may draw inspiration from various regions, their dedication to understanding their own land, cultivating suitable grape varieties, and refining their winemaking techniques has enabled them to emerge from the shadows of more prominent wine-producing areas. The industry’s leaders might refrain from boasting, but they have certainly demonstrated the capacity to silence their critics. Reflecting on Jefferson’s words, we can indeed say, “look at us now.”

This story first appeared in the October 2024 edition of Travel + Leisure under the title “American Vintage.”

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