Many a pact has been sealed over a chilled glass of beer. There’s something inherent about a well-composed pint that prompts a social mood. So, when Monday Night Brewing Brewmaster Peter Kiley from Atlanta approached James Beard Award-winning chef Meherwan Irani about a potential collaboration, the response was predictable. “When he [Peter] initially shared this proposal, it was immediately, ‘sure, absolutely!'” tells Irani about the collaboration. “I was amazed that he was taken aback by my positive response!”
The pair recently unveiled Chef Series: Meherwan Irani, a revitalizing pint that Kiley affectionately calls “a life story in a beer.” The lager made from wheated rice with a hint of turmeric is not only scrumptious but also represents the total of chef Irani’s personal experience. Born and brought up in Ahmednagar, Maharashtra, India (roughly 145 miles east of Mumbai), the skilled chef moved to the U.S. for his MBA in 1990 before eventually settling down in Asheville, North Carolina, where the idea of his acclaimed Indian restaurant Chai Pani was conceived.
Chef Series: Meherwan Irani is available now at Chai Pani restaurants and Monday Night Brewing taprooms throughout the Southeast — the holiday bonus: proceeds go to Atlanta’s Giving Kitchen charity. But those who don’t plan to go down South in the near future can still benefit from the duo’s taste-enriching knowledge. The next time you have a hankering for Indian food, these beer pairings from a James Beard Award-winning chef guarantee a flavorsome experience.
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Indian cuisine, while varying significantly across different states, is famously known for its intricate use of spices. Being paired with a refreshing beer is often the way to go. Despite being one of the world’s oldest brewing regions, European sips only started to gain popularity in India around the 18th century.
“Beer and Indian food have had a lasting relationship because of the erstwhile British Raj in India,” opines Meherwan Irani. He further explains, “Prior to starting with the meal, the usual practice was to drink gin, whisky, or Scotch, indicative of the British influence. And during the meal, the preferred beverage of majority Indians was beer.” He highlights that lighter and cooler beers, such as lagers, were usually favoured.
When the British Raj came to an end, the soldiers might have left, but the beer remained and became a staple of the now-classic Irani cafés. “These were little cantinas that served snacks and beer, mainly to Westerners… Memories of hearing different accents, enjoying Indian snacks, and chugging several bottles of lager at these canteens will always stay with me,” Irani reminisces. Nowadays, Indian restaurants worldwide, from Scotland to San Francisco, usually serve traditional exported lagers like Kingfisher. However, Peter Kiley, a Brewmaster and fan of Indian food, has suggested some unique pairings of beer.
Vada pav potato sandwiches are a must-try for those unfamiliar with Indian street food. Essentially, they are made of a mashed potato croquette stuffed between two soft buns. This hearty handheld dish is a favourite among both vegetarian and non-vegetarian foodies in Mumbai. The sandwich’s overall palatability is further enhanced by a generous spread of chutney, which provides a slight sweet and acidic kick.
When thinking about pairing Indian food with beer, Peter Kiley’s thoughts jump to Bavarian-style beer due to its starchy and soft character. He finds that rich and malty flavors complement the food well. He would go for a Märzen or a Weiss beer, specifically those that are German-style and not Belgian-style as the yeast in the latter can be too expressive. The wheat component of these beers also appeals to him.
Certainly, the taste profile of each vada pav can differ based on the cook. The kind of chutney used, and other homemade condiments can vary greatly. Also, the use of spices and chili in the potato mixture can differ. Usually, the only constant is the texture – the soft and meltingly tender pav (bun), against the delightfully crisp exterior of the potato (vada) made using a chickpea flour-based batter and quick frying in hot oil. Keeping all these characteristics in mind, it is easy to understand why German Oktoberfest beer styles would pair beautifully with this popular Indian street snack.
Irani cafes are famed for being a mix of food cultures. Initially set up in the 19th century to cater to British preferences for English-style afternoon tea, these cafes morphed into easygoing cantinas post the British occupation. Here, both tourists and locals enjoyed Indian-infused pub food and beer, carrying undertones of English and Persian influence – the latter owing to Zoroastrian Irani immigrants during the British rule. This delightful blend of cuisines inspired Chef Meherwan Irani to pay tribute to it at his fast-casual Botiwalla locations.
The tempting selection of Botiwalla includes dishes like Inji Road wings, which are brined in jaggery and coriander, swiftly fried and sprinkled with a fragrant blend of spices. Irani describes them as “excellent wings with a slight touch of Indian flavor.” This balanced taste profile is typical of Irani café cuisine and serves as an ideal guideline for beer pairing.
To balance out all of that flavor, Peter Kiley suggests two distinct directions. “I think a Kölsch would be really beautiful. It’s expressive like an ale — because it is an ale — but it’s also lean enough to drink like a lager.” If you want to go this route, read the label to be sure you’re drinking authentic Kölsch beer.
Looking for a bit more flavor? “You could go to the complete other side and go with brown ale, but more English brown ale,” says Kiley. “Something to where it’s got a little bit of maltiness.”
A staple on many a takeout menu, butter chicken is a North Indian classic. Unlike its British cousin, chicken tikka masala, butter chicken originated in Delhi in the late 1940s and quickly became a favorite for its rich, aromatic flavor profile. It’s also a perfect pairing of Indian food and beer.
“You’ve got lots of cardamom, black pepper, cinnamon on the nose,” describes Meherwan Irani. “You’ve got sweetness from the dish. It’s very creamy, it’s tangy, there’s a little bit of background heat, but it’s more aromatic than hot.” Nodding in agreement, Peter Kiley continues, “Think about on the palate level … You experience new flavors upon every bite. And it’s never the front palate; it’s always the back palate. So with something like that, I think just a lager beer.”
When discussing the role of beer in Northern Indian cuisine, Kiley concurs with popular sentiment. He points out that the cuisine uses beer primarily as a cool and invigorating taste neutralizer rather than as a primary component. According to him, “[Beer] is merely a backdrop beverage” enhancing the tastes of the dishes.
For your next butter chicken craving, consider grabbing a six-pack of a pleasantly chilled lager to go along with the meal. Kiley suggests steering clear of light lagers, as they are excessively weak to compliment the robust flavors of butter chicken. Additionally, resist the urge to opt for exceedingly bitter beverages such as American pilsners. Instead, choose a harmoniously balanced and skillfully brewed beer to enhance your dining experience.
Among the most popular street foods in India, pani puri, is a must-try for anyone looking to push their culinary boundaries. Pani Puri features a crisp shell filled with a deliciously seasoned mixture of potatoes and sprouted lentils, all topped off with irresistible garnishes such as chutney. The combined textures and flavors of pani puri make it an addictive dish that satisfies various taste buds. As a result, stopping at just one is practically impossible.
Accompanying this universally enjoyed chaat with a cold beer is essential. However, finding a suitable beer to complement such a flavorful dish is not easy. “It’s actually a challenging one, particularly given how someone might want to serve it,” admits Peter Kiley. “I would likely suggest an American pale ale… It provides enough malt character without being overpowering.”
Chiming in, chef Meherwan Irani asserts that an APA has precisely the right character for accompanying pani puri. This dish has an outstanding taste and seeks a strong counterpart. The APA’s hoppiness does exactly this. “Your aim is not a palate-cleanser but something enduring that doesn’t get overwhelmed when your mouth is filled with the flavorful chaat masala,” claims Irani. When you next opt for a plate of pani puri, consider combining it with a restrained, slightly bitter pale ale for an added depth of flavor.
Less known to Western tastes, uttapam is akin to a savory South Indian crepe and is a favorite of chef Meherwan Irani, having routinely consumed them during family visits. “It essentially resembles injera. It’s a savory, spongy rice cake with a fermented tang and is usually topped with simple ingredients like tomatoes, cilantro, onions, and curry leaves.”
Even though it’s not common Indian restaurant food in the U.S., Irani plans to incorporate the South Indian staple in his restaurant menus to help bring real Indian cuisine closer to Americans. If you come across uttapam while scanning takeout options, be sure to get one with a cold brew robust enough to counterbalance the tang.
Regarding fermented food pairing, Peter Kiley advocates for polar opposites. “I enjoy the challenge and fun of going completely opposite,” he says. “I’d likely go for something like a foreign-export stout. Something slightly different but not overly sweet.”
A stout doesn’t necessarily mean Guinness, either. There are dozens of American stouts on the craft beer market that would pair wonderfully with uttapam. If stouts aren’t your thing, Kiley has a suggestion for you, too. “I imagine a Saison with spelt. Maybe a slightly mixed culture. When I say that, I mean a bit tart, just enough to lean into the acidity.”
In Indian cuisine, fried street foods that fall under the umbrella term “chaat,” can be found in nearly every corner of the subcontinent. While the category has expanded over the years, anything small, crispy, crunchy, and served with a yogurt sauce or chutney for dipping can technically be classified as chaat, according to Irani.
“They’re generally deep fried in the streets because let’s not forget, there’s no refrigeration,” Meherwan Irani explains. “The weather is usually hot, and the food tends to be vegetarian. It’s usually in some form of batter because vendors mostly have a wok of oil, and they’re able to make variations on it.”
Crispy, fried snacks are loved worldwide for their delightful crunch, making this Indian food and beer pairing quite simple. Peter Kiley suggests an American-style IPA, though the exact type depends on the kind of chaat you’re in the mood for.
“When I think about Northern Indian dishes especially, or ones that possess more heat, I think a really fun pairing is a New England IPA because it has the sweetness, but it also has the bitterness,” says Kiley. However, when it comes to more everyday savory bites like pakoras (vegetable fritters), he recommends a somewhat more assertive West Coast IPA to cut through the fattiness of deep-fried foods.
Peter Kiley, an alcohol pro whose background encapsulates both winemaking and craft beer creation, enjoys offering advice on what spirits to pair with various foods. However, he emphasizes that these recommendations are just suggestions. “Life is hard and time is short. Enjoy whatever you want with whatever you want,” he reminds.
According to Kiley, this rule is specially important taking into account the wide expanse of Indian cuisine. The subcontinent consists of more than 50 distinct states, each having its own customs and traditions that shape its culinary scene. “If the food is from the Southern region, it will tend to have more acidity. Conversely, if it’s rooted in the North, it generally leans towards a bit more spice,” Kiley states. He also points out that these dishes can be served in a myriad of ways, affecting the expected pairings. “The pairings may not work depending on how the chef wishes to showcase that dish.”
Kiley reveals one key rule when pairing beer with Indian food: Don’t go for beverages that overpower the food’s taste. If you’re having a drink with strong flavors, it’s better consumed before or after the meal. A drink is supposed to enhance the food’s flavor, not drown it out.
Read the original article on Tasting Table.
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