Throughout history, most beer had a smoky flavor, but contemporary trends have largely moved away from this style. Here’s a look at why some brewers are bringing smoked beers back into the spotlight.

Courtesy of Alaskan Brewing Company

Smoked beer constitutes a small fraction of the U.S. beer market, yet it remains a contentious style, even among dedicated beer enthusiasts. From subtly smoked helles lagers to bold, robust rauchbiers, these beverages feature smoked malts. There is considerable variation in styles due to the different wood types and the duration of smoking employed by maltsters, leading to a wide range of smokiness levels in the final product.

“At one time, it’s likely that all beer had a smoky characteristic,” shares Ben Smith, vice president of brewing operations at Surly Brewing Company in Minneapolis. “In the beginning, when malted barley was being dried, a direct fire system was used, causing some smoke to blend with the malt during the drying process.” Nowadays, malts are typically dried in kilns to eliminate smokiness, except when that flavor is intentionally desired.

Smoked beers might require some time to appreciate fully, but the good news is that they blend nicely with a variety of flavors.

“Smoked beers are surprisingly adaptable when it comes to food pairings,” shares Tim Adams, the founder of Oxbow Brewing Company located in Oxbow, Maine.

Adams notes that Bamberg, Germany, is regarded as the heart of smoked beer, suggesting that one should begin with traditional dishes that feature pork and cabbage from German cuisine. He advises starting with “like with like” for pairings. For instance, smoky barbecue goes well with a milder smoked beer. However, he warns against pairing these beers with desserts or overly sweet flavors, as they can intensify the bitterness of smoked malt.

Brian Yaeger, founder of the Diff’rent Smokes festival dedicated to rauchbiers and a passionate advocate for smoked beer, encourages people to approach it with an open mind and enjoyment. “Rauchbier is the most punk rock style,” he explains. “It’s fantastic, but I can see why some might not like it. Brewing and enjoying it serves as a deliciously rebellious gesture against the majority in a way no other craft beer style does.”

Here are a few suggestions for beers to enhance your smoking experience.

Food & Wine / Surly Brewing Company

Smith describes this taproom-exclusive light German lager as a tribute to the smoked beer tradition originating from Bamberg, Germany. It serves as an excellent introduction to the style due to the minimal amount of beech-smoked malt incorporated, primarily for aroma and a subtle hint of flavor.

“By the time you reach the midpoint of the pint, you nearly don’t even notice the smoke anymore,” Smith remarks. He explains that after a few initial sips, the additional characteristics of the beer begin to emerge. “With a low ABV of 4.5%, you can comfortably enjoy two or three of them. They’re perfect for serving in a mug during Oktoberfest.”

Food & Wine / Oxbow Brewing Company

As a Marzen-inspired smoked bière de garde, Oxtoberfest takes cues from the brewing traditions of Belgium, Germany, and France, according to Adams. “The majority of our smoked beers are yeast-driven, Belgian-style farmhouse ales,” he explains. “While modern Belgian brewing features very few smoked beers, we believe that the smoke character enhances the fruit and spice flavors commonly found in these styles.”

Oktoberfest has a 6% ABV and skillfully balances malt and yeast characteristics. It carries a moderate smoky finish and is particularly delightful when enjoyed with a soft Bavarian pretzel.

Food & Wine / Dovetail Brewery

Grodziskies are among the more subtly smoked types within the category. Frequently hard to locate, they serve as excellent introductions to the style, thanks to their light body and lower alcohol content. Dovetail’s seasonal version of this style boasts a 3.8% ABV, striking a balance between zesty citrus notes and a faint smokiness, presented in a medium body with a refreshing finish.

Food & Wine / Alaskan Brewing Company

Rauchbier, translating to “smoke beer” in German, didn’t arrive in the U.S. until 1988. That was the year Alaskan launched its smoked porter, a pioneering smoky beer that introduced American consumers to this style. Alaskan’s Smoked Porter has garnered more awards at the Great American Beer Festival than any other beer to date. It is rich and complex, aging beautifully, yet can also be enjoyed fresh.

Food & Wine / Threes Brewing

Matt Levy, the head brewer at Threes Brewing located in Brooklyn, New York, is the creative mind behind the brand’s Thought Experiment series. This unique series features a smoked helles that is aged in an oak foeder with whole fruit sourced from their barrel-aged program. The peach iteration boasts an ABV of 5.2%, showcasing a bubbly saison body complemented by vibrant fruit flavors and a hint of smokiness.

“There’s something primal about the flavor,” Levy explains, encouraging beer enthusiasts to explore a variety of smoked styles. “Why not try and see if you can find one that you like?”