There is no doubt about it: Boxed wine has a bad reputation. Some might even characterize bag-in-box wine as “fast, cheap, easy, and fake” which is definitely not a compliment when it comes from foodies or wine snobs.
“You are what you eat so don’t be fast, cheap, easy, or fake.”
Is box wine “fast”?
Is box wine “cheap”?
Is box wine “easy”?
Is box wine “fake”?
Box wine is fast, priced reasonably (for the most part), easy, and most definitely authentic. Plus, it’s growing in popularity. Indeed, with growing concerns about environmental issues, wine-in-a-box is garnering increased attention. There are a number of good reasons you might want to reconsider box wine—including that it might actually taste good!
A swift Google search will uncover a variety of recent articles discussing the best boxed wines to buy. Check out, for instance, the New York Times article “10 Boxed Wines That Are Really Good, Seriously” or Decanter’s bag-in-box must-try list, which was compiled following the blind tasting of 70 different varieties available in the UK. Tasting Table even goes so far as to list “11 Boxed Wine You Should Always Buy,” notable particularly as the top two boxed wines on their list are from Franzia.
Despite its reputation, Franzia is undeniably popular and proudly acknowledges the environmental advantages of drinking their wine over the bottled variety. On the “green practices” page of their website, they highlight: “When you walk out of the store with a box of Franzia, there’s a noticeable spring in your step. Why? Because your carbon footprint is suddenly a whole lot lighter…” However, while the carbon savings might be valid, the production specifics of the wine are infamously unclear, making it challenging to discern what other environmental impacts could be lurking behind the packaging.
Mass-produced wines, like those marketed by Franzia, necessitate a large production model to achieve an economy of scale. This makes the price so affordable that the actual taste becomes negligible. Nevertheless, if we go by sales, people do appreciate it. Franzia has recently initiated a new marketing campaign entitled, “Franz for life” that appears to be aiming to cultivate, or at least tap into, the sort of cult following enjoyed by the producers of another mass-produced wine, “Two Buck Chuck” (whose founder was the original creator of Franzia, even though the brand was eventually sold to Coca Cola).
In essence, whether Franzia is quality wine or not, it’s popular, and the benefits of box wine are numerous.
The winery in the United States that is best known for breaking the mold—quite literally by leaping into it—is Tablas Creek Vineyard. In 2022, they allocated 100 cases of their premium rosé to 3L (bag-in-)boxes. Selling at nearly $100 each, Tablas Creek bravely took a risk and found they were able to soar: The initial 352 boxes, their first endeavor into the bag-in-box format, sold out in merely four hours. On the strength of this initial release, and subsequent ones, Tablas Creek has been recognized for establishing that high-quality boxed wine can be marketed and, importantly, sold at fine wine price points. Bag-in-box wine is widely recognized in certain locations, and owners like Tablas Creek are showcasing the model’s viability here too.
If you need (or want) to taste to believe, as of this post, you can still secure a 3L box of Tablas Creek’s highly admired Rhone-style red, though I wouldn’t rely on it being available for an extended period (as the rosé and white blend are already sold out). I must caveat that this recommendation contradicts my previous advice regarding thinking out-of-the-box for gift options this festive season. However, if you can attain some, I certainly won’t pass judgment on whether you gift it to a friend or keep it all to yourself.
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