Over the past decade or so, natural wine bars have proliferated around the Bay Area, clustered mainly Oakland and San Francisco but slowly spreading to other communities in the region. Here are three wine bars to try that have opened within the past year in San Jose, San Anselmo and El Cerrito.

So what is natural wine? “The best way to think about naturalness in wine is as an ideal: wine made from grapes with nothing added and nothing removed,” says Aaron Ayscough in The World of Natural Wine: What it is, Who Makes It, and Why it Matters (Artisan, 2022). There are levels of “naturalness,” of course, but generally speaking, these wines have some or all of these characteristics: They’re produced from organically-farmed grapes, fermented in native yeasts, contain no or very low levels of sulfites or other additives, and have not been fined or filtered.

Here’s where to taste them:

As it nears its first anniversary, Steven and Ann Huynh’s wine bar is all about inclusion and accessibility. Steven’s Asian American upbringing didn’t include much exposure to wine or to the etiquette and knowledge expectations he says often accompany a traditional wine tasting.

“Natural wine, for me, breaks down those barriers,” he says. “It doesn’t really have a barrier to entry – you don’t need to know anything about grapes or wine varietals. (You can) have a fun experience, where you can learn if you want or just drink a good product and enjoy your time out.”

They even have a Goodtime Bar Run Club, so you can get your exercise in first.

What to try: Made with organic viognier grapes, the 2021 Les Parcelles Pétillantes Bouteillou from France’s Les Chemins de Bassac is sparkling and refreshing. Pair it with the arancini ($14), made with Japanese curry, kimchi mayonnaise and fontina cheese and topped with nasturtium leaves.

Details: Opens at 4 p.m. Monday and Wednesday-Friday and 2 p.m. weekends at 30 Fountain Alley #160 in San Jose; goodtimebarsj.com.

The atmosphere is electric and the fireplace cheerily lit at a wine and low-ABV cocktail bar this fine Saturday evening. This bar, which opened in December, is known for its specialty in natural wines and sophisticated food to complement them.

This lovely spot, nestled within the town’s legendary Cheda Building (dating back to 1911), features wall-to-wall windows. In 1914, the structure was transformed into San Anselmo’s first movie theater, and over the years, it hosted a variety of businesses, including drugstores, a lounge, and an office. Today, it has transformed once again and is known as Voyage Bar, adorned with elegant reclaimed Douglas fir, redwood accents, and vintage lighting fixtures.

What to try: Although the menu is subject to rotation, the roasted root veggies dish ($15) is a delectable dish to share. A lively debate may ensue among your group over the difference between Romesco and Romanesco, as both are present in the dish. (Note: Romesco refers to a Spanish style tomato-based sauce while Romanesco is a cruciferous vegetable with a distinct geometric appearance.) A chilled red wine like the refreshingly unique blend of zinfandel and carignan from Glassmaker, produced in Mendocino, is recommended. Alternatively, the COS “Nero di Lupo”, a light and smooth biodynamic red from Sicily, is worth a try.

Details: Voyage Bar is open daily from 5 to 10 p.m., except on Tuesdays. It is located at 500 San Anselmo Ave. in San Anselmo. More information can be found at voyagebar.com.

Banter impresses with its modern, yet retro vibe. Launched a year back by Claire Sullivan and Devin Hohler, the facade might fool you into thinking it’s just another store. However, once you cross the threshold, you are treated to a spectacular throwback to the ’80s – complete with old-age music posters, daring wall coverings, and a communal assortment of VHS cassettes and vinyl disks. Not to miss, the back room sports an old-school, coin-operated pinball machine.

The bar’s offerings include a changing array of natural wines. You might want to try their flight of three half-glasses that comes for $22 – a value-for-money way to experience several flavors. Their menu is a concise collection of petite servings, featuring meats, cheese, hummus, and anchovies coming at a reasonable price of $14.

Must-try: Give the Oest Wines “Ruckus” a shot – it’s a light bubbly red. The Guignier Beaujolais Villages Gamay from France is an exquisite bouquet of fruitiness and fragrance. For the adventurous, they’ve got an eccentric orange Artana Rkatsiteli from Georgia, meant for the unflinching who don’t mind terms like “vegetal” and “funky”. Just in for a quick bite? Combine it with a slice of Acme’s “hella wet” levain bread for $5, served with salted butter from Straus.

The Basics: Banter is open from 4 to 9 p.m., Tuesday through Saturday, located at 10368 San Pablo Ave., El Cerrito; banterwine.com.