I’m breaking from tradition for this column to feature a winery, not a single wine, of the month. And for good reason: Masciarelli Tenute Agricole itself breaks tradition with a female leadership consisting of the Belgrade-born Marina Cvetić and her daughter, Miriam Lee Masciarelli. The mother-daughter team took over operations after founder Gianni Masciarelli’s death in 2008.
Founded on less than 2.5 acres in 1981 in Abruzzo, the winery has risen through the ranks and gained respect, putting on the map a region better known for its rusticity than its fine wines. Though, that is sure to change, with more consumers embarking on a road of exploration of lesser-known regions and native grapes—a journey for which Italy, with its 400+ grapes, is a solid tour guide, and Abruzzo a most promising emerging star.
From the start, Gianni Masciarelli focused on quality and particular parcels, taking his cue from quality regions such as Burgundy and convinced that the same rigor would pay off in Abruzzo.
And it did. Gambero Rosso, the Italian magazine of gastronomy, awarded Masciarelli’s Villa Gemma Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 1995 “Best Wine in Italy”—the first Montepulciano to be so recognized.
In the United States, look for the winery’s widely available “Linea Classica” line. And for your upcoming July 4 barbecue (or, in my house, my Sunday evening salmon dinner), look for these two reds that straddle seasons and climates.
Two reds from Abruzzo
Masciarelli “Villa Gemma” Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo Superiore DOC. Very light garnet in color, this is a lithe and light-bodied red, even for the 14% alcohol. Cerasuolo means “cherry red” and that informs this wine, which is cherry-fruit forward. There’s a bit of earthy spice on the finish. This is a good swap out for Pinot Noir—a lighter interpretation that goes well with red-sauce pasta dishes, charcuterie, pizza and roasted salmon.
Keeping it in the family, this Marina Cvetić Montepulciano Riserva San Martino Rosso DOC (2019) shows tart red fruit, fresh raspberry and strawberry. Like its sister wine, there’s a little earthy afternote and spice, but it’s a well-made wine that delivers a direct line of fruit. If the winemaker had a hand in this, I can’t taste it: it’s unadulterated by heavy oak or wood spice, though it spent 13 months in barrique. Not a heavy wine, this is a red to accompany the grill.
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