Vazisubani Estate: Reviving Georgia’s Rich Winemaking Tradition

Georgia, with its ancient winemaking history, has emerged as a force to be reckoned with in the global wine market. Amongst the numerous wineries in the region, Vazisubani Estate stands out as one of the largest and most modern.

I had the pleasure of interviewing Lado Uzunashvili, the chief winemaker for Vazisubani Estate, to gain insight into the current state of the wine industry in Georgia. Our conversation delved into a range of topics, including the beginnings of winemaking in Georgia and the significance of the traditional qvevri vessels.

Scientific evidence supports the claim that Georgia is the birthplace of Vitis Vinifera, the grape family that forms the foundation of the international wine industry. This evidence also suggests that the Western and Eastern regions of Georgia have their origins in Vitis Vinifera. It is believed that these ancient grape varieties have existed in Georgia for thousands of years, with no external influences contributing to their introduction.

An intriguing aspect of winemaking in Georgia is the usage of qvevri, large ceramic vessels buried in the ground. These vessels have been in use for over 8,000 years and are still employed today. The qvevri not only aided in fermentation but also served as a means of hiding wine from intruders during troubled times. With the recent surge in popularity of wines made in qvevri, Georgia’s winemakers have embraced this traditional method on an even larger scale.

Georgia boasts an impressive array of indigenous grape varieties, with over 525 still surviving. Out of these, approximately 70 are commercially cultivated, and more are continually being added to the list. The names of these varieties may be challenging to remember and pronounce for those unfamiliar with Georgian wines. Some notable examples include red varieties like Saperavi, Saperavi Budeshuri, and Shavkapito, and white varieties like Rkatsiteli, Mtsvane, and Khikhvi.

Taking a step back into history, Vazisubani Estate was once the prestigious abode of Sulkhan Chavchavadze, a renowned nobleman, and winemaker. Built in 1891, the estate played a vital role in the cultural and educational development of Georgia, particularly in the Kakheti region. However, with the Soviet invasion in 1921, the estate suffered substantial losses, including the destruction of the Chavchavadze family and their burial site.

For the next 77 years, the estate became a varietal collection field under the Research Institute of Viticulture and Winemaking. It wasn’t until 2014, after the collapse of the USSR, that the estate was privatized and eventually acquired by the current owners. This marked the beginning of an impressive transformation.

The vineyards of Vazisubani Estate were restored in 2015 and 2016, covering a total of 33 hectares. Currently, the estate produces six varieties of red and white wines. The reds include Saperavi and Saperavi Budeshuri, which are considered the future of red wines in Georgia and beyond. The whites consist of well-known varieties like Rkatsiteli, Mtsvane, Khikhvi, and Kisi, perfectly adapted to the region’s terroir.

With the revitalization of the estate, Vazisubani offers visitors an unparalleled experience. Alongside the carefully tended vineyards stands a restored old wine cellar, preserving the winemaking traditions of the region. And the historic palace, now a charming boutique hotel, serves as a testament to the estate’s rich history and its commitment to exceptional hospitality.

As Georgia continues to reclaim its position as a prominent wine producer, wineries like Vazisubani Estate play a pivotal role in promoting the country’s unique varietals and winemaking techniques. Whether you’re a wine enthusiast seeking novel flavors or an intrepid traveler in search of remarkable experiences, Georgia promises to be an extraordinary destination for both wine and gastronomy.

Ancient Traditions and Modern Styles: The Story of Vazisubani Estate

Located in the heart of Georgia, Vazisubani Estate has been a hub of winemaking for over 8,000 years. With its rich history and commitment to authenticity, this local Controlled Appellation of Origin offers a unique experience for wine enthusiasts.

At Vazisubani Estate, we take pride in our traditional winemaking methods. Using qvevri, large clay vessels buried underground, we ferment our grapes and age our wines for months, allowing them to develop rich flavors and textures. This ancient technique has been passed down for generations, ensuring that each bottle of Vazisubani wine embodies the true essence of Georgian winemaking.

But we also recognize the importance of embracing modernity and catering to the evolving tastes of wine lovers around the world. That’s why, in 2020, we built a state-of-the-art winery alongside our qvevri cellar. This allows us to produce modern-style wines from the same indigenous grape varieties that have been cultivated in Georgia for centuries.

The Vazisubani Estate isn’t just about wine; it’s also a sanctuary for eco-tourism. Our ancestral mansion, dating back to 1891, has been carefully restored to offer a glimpse into the past. Surrounded by vineyards spanning 33 hectares and a stunning parkland filled with rare tree species, our estate provides a serene retreat for visitors seeking a connection with nature and themselves.

Since 2014, we have been committed to creating a home away from home for our guests. Vazisubani Estate is a place where history comes alive, where one can savor our exquisite wines, and where every moment becomes a celebration of life. We believe in providing our visitors with a memorable experience, one that leaves a lasting impression and a desire to return.

When it comes to our wine offerings, Vazisubani Estate boasts three distinct product lines. Our Traditional qvevri wines, produced under the Vazisubani Estate label, stay true to our ancient winemaking traditions. These wines capture the essence of Georgia’s winemaking heritage and transport you back in time with every sip.

For those who prefer a more contemporary style, our Estate Collection offers modern wines that showcase the versatility and innovation of Georgian winemaking. These wines are crafted with precision and finesse, appealing to wine enthusiasts around the world who crave unique and exciting flavors.

But we don’t stop there. Our commitment to pushing the boundaries of winemaking has led us to create unique blends that defy industry norms. Our Georgian Sun line features unexpected combinations that challenge convention, delighting the palate and pushing the boundaries of what can be achieved in winemaking.

While Vazisubani wines have gained international recognition, we remain rooted in our local community. We export our wines to 22 countries, reaching destinations as far as Brazil, the United States, Japan, and China. However, we also prioritize local sales, with 60% of our production remaining within Georgia. This reflects our commitment to supporting the local market and the cultural significance of wine in Georgian society.

Georgia’s wine industry has faced its fair share of challenges, including the recent war in Ukraine. The conflict has had a ripple effect on various aspects of our lives, including the tourism sector. However, we remain resilient and adaptable. We have seen changes in visitor demographics, as well as a shift in our export markets. This has encouraged us to diversify and focus on expanding our presence in Western and Asian markets. The increasing demand for Georgian wine worldwide is a testament to the quality and reputation of our wines.

It is no surprise that Georgia has seen a significant growth in family wineries, with over 100,000 as of 2019. This growth can be attributed to our deep-rooted wine culture, something that is ingrained in our DNA. The ease of regulations for small players to enter the industry has also played a crucial role in fostering this growth, allowing family cellars to thrive and contribute to Georgia’s winemaking heritage.

As Vazisubani Estate continues to grow, we are optimistic about the prospects for increased production. With our vineyards boasting a capacity to produce an additional 150,000 bottles, we are well-positioned to meet the demands of a global market flooded with wine. Our commitment to quality and our unique offering make us stand out in this oversaturated industry.

Georgia’s progress in the international marketplace lies in its distinctiveness. From our ancient qvevri tradition recognized by UNESCO to our vast array of indigenous grape varieties, we have a story to tell that captivates wine lovers’ imaginations. Our wines embody the depth of history, the richness of culture, and the spirit of innovation. Vazisubani Estate is not just another winery; it is a gateway to a world of flavors and experiences that will leave you wanting more.

The Ancient Grapevine: Nurturing Passion and Adapting to Change

The story of Vitis Vinifera, the first cultured grapevine, is a tale that has captivated people for centuries. Its roots run deep in the soil of the wine industry, shaping our lifestyles and forging lifelong friendships over a glass of wine. For millennia, grapes and their products have nourished our bodies and invigorated our spirits. But as much as they have fueled our passions, they have also faced the challenges brought on by climate change.

Like vines twisting and turning to reach the sun, wineries around the world have had to adapt to the ever-changing climate. Even in our own Controlled Appellation Zones, the descriptive landscape is transforming, presenting a powerful dilemma for us as producers tasked with persuading buyers. Yet, amidst this uncertainty, a growing number of individuals are embracing the inevitability of change. Nature dictates its course, and we must find ways to harmonize with its new rhythms.

Fortunately, we stand in a relatively favorable position compared to other renowned wine regions, such as the famous vineyards of France. Our grape varieties boast ancient genes that have proven their exceptional adaptability. In discussions with our colleagues from different corners of the world, we have collectively mulled over strategies for salvaging imperiled vineyards. One such solution lies in the red Saperavi grape, a powerful force that can rejuvenate struggling regions and infuse their wines with newfound vigor. And let us not forget the potential of our Georgian whites, with their origin in the ancient Vitis Vinifera. By sharing our wisdom and experience, we can help other regions rediscover their resilience and produce exceptional wines once again.

As humanity has proved time and again, we are quick learners. With determination and innovation, we will navigate the treacherous waters of climate change and its impact on the world of wine. By studying nature’s new behavior and adapting to its demands, we hope to minimize the effects of this shifting landscape. For the love of wine and the passion it ignites within us, we will champion sustainability and seek solutions that ensure the legacy of Vitis Vinifera, the ancient grapevine, endures for generations to come.

In conclusion, as we sip on our glasses of wine and muse over the stories of our predecessors, let us remember that the journey of the grapevine is not so different from our own. It thrives in the face of adversity, bending and adapting to the winds of change. And just as the vineyard evolves, so too must we as stewards of the land. Together, we can raise a toast to the rich tapestry of the wine industry and the enduring spirit of Vitis Vinifera, the ancient grapevine that binds us all.