After pouring a brown, gritty liquid from a large silver tank into a refractometer, South African brewing master Apiwe Nxusani-Mawela expresses her approval to students, who enthusiastically share their observations. "When you are brewing, you must constantly check your mixture," she emphasizes, highlighting the need for balance between sugar and grains.
At 41, Nxusani-Mawela is a pioneering figure as the first Black woman to own a craft brewery in South Africa. Her goal is to broaden access to the multibillion-dollar beer industry for more Black individuals and women. At her microbrewery in Johannesburg, she trains 13 young Black graduates, most of whom are women, in the brewing craft.
The students come from backgrounds in chemical engineering, biotechnology, or analytical chemistry and are eager to gain qualifications specific to brewing. During their extensive six-hour class, they learn various brewing techniques such as malting, mashing, and fermentation—all essential steps in brewing quality beer. "My favorite part is the mashing," says Lerato Banda, a 30-year-old chemical engineering student aiming to launch her own beverage line. "It’s where the beer and everything starts."
Nxusani-Mawela’s Brewsters Academy, where the classes began in early June, focuses on beer varieties from around the world and Africa. Students will complete a six-month hands-on experience in addition to their lessons.
Located in Johannesburg’s Wynberg suburb, Nxusani-Mawela’s Tolokazi brewery lies between the poorer township of Alexandra and the affluent financial district of Sandton, often referred to as Africa’s richest square mile. She grew up in Butterworth—about 621 miles away—and was inspired by a university event to pursue a career in brewing. Initially, she began brewing as an amateur in 2007, combining her passion for business and science, leveraging her microbiology degree.
Nxusani-Mawela is committed to transforming the beer industry for future generations. "I wanted to ensure that being the first Black female to own a brewery in South Africa, I’m not the first and the last," she states. Her aim is to normalize the presence of Black individuals and women in the industry over the next decade.
The South African beer industry generates over $5.2 billion for the country’s economy and supports more than 200,000 jobs. Despite its male-dominated nature, there are ongoing initiatives to incorporate more women.
Lehlohonolo Makhethe, a 24-year-old student, acknowledges the historical connection between women and brewing in some African cultures. She believes acquiring these skills is reclaiming their traditional roles. "How it got male dominated, I don’t know," she remarks, adding, "we are going back to our roots as women."
Nxusani-Mawela also emphasizes the importance of maintaining traditional African beer styles. Her award-winning Wild African Soul beer, which brings together elements of Umqombothi (a traditional African beer made from maize and sorghum) and Belgian Saison, showcases this vision. "Umqombothi is our African way, and everybody should know how to make it, but we don’t," she reflects, highlighting her desire to merge the past with contemporary brewing.
Utilizing unique South African flavors, her Tolokazi line includes beers infused with marula fruit and rooibos, typically known for its tea. A festival participant, Lethabo Seipei Kekae, expressed surprise at enjoying rooibos beer, stating, "It’s so smooth. Even if you are not a beer drinker, you can drink it.
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