How do these three classics stand up to modern IPAs? (George Lenker photo) George Lenker

Regular readers will be familiar with my love for old-school West Coast IPAs. The style remains my favorite overall.

Of course, readers are also acquainted with my frustration over the oversaturation of New England IPAs these days. The style itself is fine, although it can be taken to extremes that I’m not crazy about. But again, my main issue is the sheer number of them. Yet as I’ve said: I can’t blame brewers for making beer that sells.

Last week I was poking around in Liquors 44 here in Northampton and wandered down to the last beer case in the corner on the left. That’s where you can find single cans and bottles of random beers. As luck (fate?) would have it, I was able to snag three old-school classic IPAs (although one is a double IPA): Stone IPA, Dogfish Head 60-minute IPA and Dogfish Head 90-minute IPA (the double).

I seized them with the thought of re-exploring the beers considering how much modern IPAs have transformed. As I hadn’t tasted any of the three in a long time, the outcomes were both somewhat astonishing and also consistent with my assumptions.

Initiating with Stone, the initial swigs seemed hoppier than my memory served. This was an unexpected revelation, given that I remembered it being one of the most hopped beers around 20-plus years back. It retained a strong malt composition, albeit without any sweetness. I discovered subsequently that Stone had modified the beer’s dry-hopping over the years, rationalizing the heightened hoppiness.

I have the impression that Stone IPA holds its own exceptionally well against today’s hop heavyweights, though in a more level manner. This is a bonus in my view. The hops mix yet delivers the delicious citrusy character that rendered it a preferred beer in times past.

Dogfish’s 60-minute IPA brings along another narrative entirely, but one that culminates in a happy (or should I say, hoppy?) conclusion. I was always more inclined towards the 90-minute IPA, but I must concede that the 60-minute variant matches up well. Bright and grassy, this beer was actually the sequel to the 90. Currently, my preference leans towards more sessionable beers, in which case, the 60 is an impeccable choice if you’re yearning for a phenomenal IPA. I sampled it alongside Building 8’s The IPA (a personal favourite), and it held its ground impeccably.

I shouldn’t really even include the 90-minute IPA here because it’s a double, but since I bought and drank it, I’m going to. I actually recall the very first time I had it (in Northampton’s Bishop’s Lounge circa 2003(?). One sip and I was in love. The blend of piney notes with a citrus blast, finished with slightly sweet aftertaste, rocketed the beer to the top of my list.

I’m here to tell you that it still tastes just as good.

So, although I’m always saying to drink local beer when you can, I would never fault anyone for cheating with these out-of-towners here and there.

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