Welcome to NEBCO American lager from New England Brewing Co. located in Woodbridge, Conn.

Craft beer initially had a strong emphasis on the IPA in regions like Connecticut and beyond, however, there’s been a shift in drinking preferences recently with many craft beer lovers favouring more finely nuanced brews.

“Reflecting on the early stages of the craft beer movement, it’s clear that the smaller and locally independent brewers had to differentiate themselves from the major brands with powerful, distinct, and bold beers. IPA’s fit this bill perfectly. They were playful, distinct, thrilling, and a stark contrast to the traditional American beer panorama. As smaller and independent brewers have garnered more consumer faith, we’re now in a position to display other flavour profiles to our patrons,” notes Matt Westfall, owner and brewer of Counter Weight Brewing Co. in Cheshire.

While IPAs continue to hold the top spot in terms of sales at most craft breweries, both in Connecticut and across the nation, there’s a growing consumer demand for lagers. Lager is a beer variant brewed differently than ales and it encompasses the subgroup of pilsners. At Counter Weight, although the brewery’s signature IPA still takes the top spot in overall sales by a significant margin, its Workhorse Lager is making considerable strides.

Workhorse Lager from Counter Weight Brewing Co. in Cheshire, Conn.

Workhorse Lager from Counter Weight Brewing Co. in Cheshire, Conn.

“It is now our fastest-growing brand in 2023,” Westfall says. The increasing popularity of lagers is even more pronounced in the brewery’s taproom where Workhorse is the best-selling draft item and three of the top five sellers in the brewery are consistently various types of lagers. 

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Workhorse Lager from Counter Weight Brewing Co. in Cheshire, Conn.

Workhorse Lager from Counter Weight Brewing Co. in Cheshire, Conn.

Of course, IPAs still dominate craft sales by a significant margin. At New England Brewing Co. in Woodbridge, 90 percent of production is dedicated to IPAs.

“But we have seen the craft lager category emerging and launched NEBCO Lager last summer to start participating in the category in a bigger way,” says Jamal Robinson, New England Brewing Co.’s director of sales and marketing.

So what’s triggering the resurgence in lagers? There are a number of contributing factors.

“The growth in popularity of lagers can certainly be attributed in part to palate fatigue,” says Robinson. “There are a plethora of beer drinkers who are fed up with the powerful, robust IPAs and feel that the hazy, juicy IPAs are too heavy to truly quench their thirst. These consumers are in search of something that’s more refreshing, easier to drink, and has a lower alcohol by volume (ABV)—in other words, a beer that’s session-able. The cost factor is also beginning to have a significant impact. Beer drinkers are shying away from $20 four-packs and double-digit ABV IPAs.”

Phil Markowski, the brewmaster at Two Roads Brewing Co. in Stratford, concurs.

“Craft beer aficionados are starting to explore their options beyond IPAs,” notes Markowksi. “Don’t get me wrong, I enjoy IPAs as much as the next person, but there are times when I fancy a switch and crave a clean, crisp, carefully balanced lager.”

Welcome to NEBCO American lager from New England Brewing Co. in Woodbridge, Conn.

Two Roads is meeting this demand by distributing one lager year-round named Cruise Control, plus a variety of seasonal lagers.

Lagers are brewed using cold-fermenting yeasts which convert beer ingredients into alcohol at a more gradual pace than the warm-fermenting yeast used for ales. Consequently, it takes approximately 6-8 weeks to brew lagers — nearly twice that of an average ale. This results in them being more costly as they occupy fermentation space for extended durations. However, it’s this slow brewing process that contributes to their increased popularity amongst brewers.

“The technical aspect of crafting a quality lager is truly fascinating,” expresses Barry Labendz, co-founder of Kent Falls Brewing Co. in Kent. They offer a pilsner named The Hollow all year-round and an assortment of seasonal lagers, alongside other styles. “It’s all about the quality of ingredients and the process. In the fast-paced world of brewing, it’s quite refreshing to produce a beer that you allow to rest for an extended period.”

The classic nature of the style is continuously captivating to numerous brewers and fans. “A large amount of romanticism encircles traditional lager styles,” states Westfall. “Numerous iconic beer examples that inspire numerous brewers originate from incredibly old breweries. These are typically breweries housed in antique, picturesque structures, operated by several generations of the same family, utilizing the most conventional gear and methods to craft beers that perfectly encapsulate the beer their forefathers brewed for the same community, sometimes for hundreds of years.”

Westfall further notes, “It’s quite unique to create a beer influenced by those traditions, methodologies, occasionally with identical ingredients, and having the opportunity to pursue those minor subtleties in these delicate styles.”