It is uncommon for me to have dinner without wine, which makes tasting wine solo even rarer; it feels similar to testing a car in a garage, as a wine’s qualities must be appreciated alongside food. I don’t meticulously note every wine I taste throughout the year because the market is flooded with both extraordinary and average wines from around the world.

I don’t hide wines in bags to guess blindly. I select wines in accordance with my meal, ensuring there’s harmony between the dish and the varietal. Most times, I possess a reliable expectation of how the selected wine will taste. For instance, if I opt for a Pinot Noir, I anticipate its typical flavor profile, even if that expectation doesn’t always hold true.

Recently, I encountered a delightful surprise when a sweet Beaumes-de-Venise paired beautifully with roasted chestnuts, showcasing how a wine can sometimes exceed the norm.

The standout wine for me was Aia Vecchia’s 2022 Sor Ugo, a Bolgheri DOC Superiore. With an alcohol content of 15%, which traditionally might throw a wine’s balance off, this wine instead delivered an impressive experience. I reacted audibly with a "Wow!" upon my first sip—not because it was overly robust but due to its harmony of terroir expression, acidity, fruit, tannin, and alcohol.

Aia Vecchia, established in 1995, has evolved into a leading name among Tuscan producers. The Sor Ugo is a Bordeaux-style blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Petit Verdot, crafted with respect to the legacy of Ugo Pellegrini, who first grew grapes over a century ago. The estate spans 112 acres in the cooler coastal Bolgheri and Maremma regions, reminiscent of Bordeaux’s climate.

Collaborating with agronomist Daniel Schuster, the Pellegrini family sourced rootstock from Bordeaux. Alongside renowned Hungarian winemaker Tibor Gal, formerly of Ornellaia, they crafted the current blend, which has 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 13% Cabernet Franc, and 7% Petit Verdot. The vines, now 23 years old, undergo malolactic fermentation in both new and used barriques for 18 months, followed by an additional six months of aging in bottles. Approximately 33,000 bottles are produced annually, and the 2022 is their second offering.

What makes Sor Ugo distinct is its readiness to drink without the long aging period often required for Bordeaux. I savored it alongside a hearty veal chop and roasted potatoes, making it a suitable companion for festive meals, such as Christmas dinner.

With three weeks remaining in December, other exceptional wines may still cross my path, but for now, Sor Ugo stands as a benchmark for exquisite winemaking in 2025.