September 2024 163

What happens in the back of your throat when I say the word “Jägermeister?”

Don’t close the page. This is a cocktail column, and what will conclude this brief story is, yes, a cocktail recipe with a small amount of Jägermeister in it, but I’m here to tell you that it doesn’t taste like you think it does. At least, it doesn’t have to.

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It could just be my particular vintage or peer set, but I suspect many if not most of you have at least one aggressively unpleasant memory associated with the dark green brick of a bottle from Wolfenbüttel, Germany—so much so, that when we use it as an ingredient in drinks, we’ll sometimes just say “German herbal liqueur” on the menu as opposed to its actual name, just to get people to order it. Across the liquor world, I can’t think of a single brand that has flown higher and sank lower, or been the primary subject of so many bitterly hungover renunciations. I admit I was one of those people, so much so that for a period of years I couldn’t bear to even see Jägermeister poured, jet black and syrupy, into a shot glass. I’m here to say I had it wrong.

Those of us who overdosed on it in our youth tend to believe that Jägermeister emerged spontaneously, Athena-like, from the forehead of some frat guy in 1982, but it’s not so. Jägermeister has been around since 1934. It was invented by a young man named Curt Mast, a tinkerer and avid hunter (Jägermeister means “hunter master”) who concocted an herbal liqueur made from of 56 botanicals sourced across the world, sorted into four different macerates, blended and aged for nearly a year in enormous wooden barrels. All of which is to say, we’re not talking about Skittles-flavored vodka here. Most of how it’s made is perfectly in step with the darlings of the cocktail world—Chartreuse, Bénédictine, Fernet Branca—except only Jägermeister is singled out for ignominy. Why?

While the considerable content of sugar plays its role, a significant part of the story is tied to Sydney Frank, a master in liquor importation and marketing. Frank isn’t just known for developing the concept of a French vodka and eventually selling Grey Goose to Bacardi for billions; initially, he made his mark with Jägermeister, having acquired its American distribution rights in the 1970s. His challenge was to popularize a brand that was struggling to find its rhythm outside of German expat circles. Frank’s innovative solution was to introduce Jägermeister as a frozen shot. His tactic was simple: persuade people to give it a try. He realized that attractiveness could aid sales, leading him to employ charming women, dubbed “Jägerettes,” to promote the herbal liquor in bars. His strategy succeeded, transforming Jägermeister into a popular choice for ice-cold shots. Originally intended as a digestivo or a digestif, Jägermeister morphed into a party staple, often consumed swiftly, dropped into beers, or combined in various notorious cocktails like the Red Headed Slut and Surfer on Acid, ascending to global brand status.

Today, Jägermeister might seem a casualty of its triumph, often linked with college festivities and less refined bar settings. Yet, setting aside these associations reveals it as a versatile herbal liqueur, excellent for mixing. It complements fruits such as apples and pears splendidly, blends well with darker essences like Fernet, coffee, or chocolate, and shines in concoctions with tropical fruits. A prime example is the Seven Days in Berlin cocktail—a blend of Jägermeister with coconut and pineapple rums, lime juice, and a touch of sugar—turning the familiar licorice flavor into a sublime ingredient that enhances without overpowering. This cocktail represents a sophisticated fusion of tiki and German herbal liqueur influences.

While it may still be too soon to discuss your newfound appreciation for Jägermeister with your in-laws, it’s an opportune moment to explore the rich possibilities offered by German herbal liqueurs.

1 oz. coconut Rum

0.75 oz. Lime Juice

0.5 oz. Jägermeister

0.5 oz. demerara syrup

Add all ingredients to a cocktail shaker and shake vigorously with ice for eight to 10 seconds. Pour the strained mixture into a coupe or cocktail glass. You can garnish it with a slice of pineapple, some pineapple leaves, a lime wheel, a few drops of angostura bitters on the foam, or any garnish of your choosing.

GUIDE TO INGREDIENTS

Pineapple Rum: There are primarily two varieties of pineapple rum: commercially distilled and homemade infused (where you infuse chunks of pineapple into rum). For our purposes, the homemade infused version is preferred as it offers both a robust flavor and a touch of natural acidity. Here’s how to make it:

Create Pineapple Rum by taking one pineapple and cutting it into approximately 1-inch cubes. Place these cubes into a non-reactive container, then pour white rum over the top. Allow this mixture to sit at room temperature for 24 hours before removing the pineapple pieces.

Replace Pineapple Rum with Pineapple Juice and White Rum – Instead of 1 oz. Pineapple rum, substitute with 1 oz. white rum such as Plantation 3-star or Flor de Cana and add 0.5 oz. pineapple juice.

Coconut Rum: While Malibu is a well-known option and suitable in a hurry, it’s quite sweet which might require reducing the amount of demerara syrup used. A preferable choice is Koloa Coconut from Hawaii. It’s 40 percent alcohol and slightly sweet, offering a genuine coconut taste rather than an artificial one. For enthusiasts of tropical beverages, it’s recommended to try and source this rum.

Demerara Syrup: This syrup, a bit less refined than the clear simple syrup made from bleached sugar, adds depth to the cocktail. It complements both the light tropical flavors and the dark, rich notes of Jägermeister. While not essential, as simple syrup can be used, the unique qualities of demerara make it preferable. Combine equal parts of sugar and hot water, stirring until dissolved. If using demerara sugar, which includes large crystals, it may be beneficial to dissolve the sugar on the stove to utilize the heat for better solubility.

Jägermeister: This cocktail is designed to highlight the unique characteristics of Jägermeister. Though it hasn’t been tested with other liquors, various herbal liqueurs might also be suitable. For instance, using Campari could bring it close to a Jungle Bird cocktail, and options like Amaro Montenegro or Meletti may also be appropriate, though experimentation is encouraged.

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Miami Beach, Florida, Total Wine Spirits Beer & More, store entrance. The image is attributed to Jeffrey Greenberg via Universal Images Group.

Today, the whisky industry boasts over 7,000 different expressions, with about half being Scotch whisky. Another 3,000 expressions are mostly American whiskeys, particularly bourbon, while remaining whiskies come from various parts of the globe. Approximately one quarter of these are rare, limited edition single cask or small batch expressions. The question arises: are there too many limited-release whiskies available? For insights, I recently discussed this with Michael Lowry, the Vice President of Spirits at Total Wine & More.

JM: With over 7,000 whisky expressions on the market, about half of which are bourbon, and as one of the leading spirits retailers, you surely receive a significant share of these bottlings. How do you choose what to offer in your stores?

ML: Our well-organized category management team assesses spirits sales and trends by store and market. Based on this data, we modify our offerings, approve new products, or add more SKUs from established brands to certain locations.

Bourbon continues to see growth, and new SKUs are frequently being added to this category. Additionally, efforts are made to secure highly allocated and rare SKUs that are in demand by our customers. Conversely, the Scotch category is expanding at a slower rate. New additions in this category are typically chosen based on their innovation, rarity, and their appeal to collectors.

JM: Approximately half of the whisky offerings are limited-release, either because they are special editions available for a limited time or because they are from single-barrel or small-batch productions. Are the evaluation criteria for these limited-release items different, or are there additional considerations?

ML: Total Wine actively seeks all limited/special release and rare bottlings. Our goal is for these SKUs to represent a significant proportion of our inventory because we consider ourselves a primary destination for bourbon enthusiasts and collectors. These customers visit our stores specifically looking for these items. Our strategy is to ensure we stock them in larger quantities and obtain them sooner than our competitors.

JM: Ignoring the size variations of Total Wine & More stores and the region-specific offerings, is there a limit to the number of limited-release items you can stock nationally? How many different expressions, both regional and national, would you typically offer?

ML: At TWM, our strategy for limited releases is shaped by a philosophy of abundance—we aim to acquire substantial quantities early on. Our portfolio includes over 2500 SKUs within the bourbon category, though availability varies by store and not all SKUs are present in our inventory. Our selection criteria are heavily influenced by current trends, online discussions, in-store inquiries, and website searches, ensuring that popular items are available in our stores.

JM: Is the abundance of limited-release bottlings overwhelming for retailers? Are there too many offerings? Could this be an example of a well-intentioned idea going to extremes?

ML: We deliberately focus on this sector because we recognize these customers prefer shopping with us; our range is substantially broader than what our competitors offer. The range of limited-release bottlings—from single barrels to seasonal releases, high proofs, distiller’s picks, and distillery exclusives—has expanded considerably.

We strive to secure every new release and conduct trials in various markets to gauge customer interest. Our purchasing decisions are guided by monitoring trends and engaging with online conversations about new releases, helping us to anticipate market demands.

I do think there are too many SKUs in this category, and it is no longer as special as it once was. Many folks who experimented with limited releases have returned to the primary SKU from the producer—satisfied with their everyday pick over the one offered at premium retail. The collector is also de-stocking: moving through their library of expressions and reducing the overall spend on new.

What advice would you give a craft retailer seeking retail distribution through TWM? How do they get your attention?

I think distilleries need to refocus their limited-release strategies to make them more special and desired by consumers. Many distilleries offer expressions only available at the distillery or in a single market: Kentucky is famous for this. When a brand has 5 or 6 expressions on the shelf, many consumers check them all out but respond by choosing none. They go to a brand that is easier to navigate and more straightforward than you can expect when you get home. Producers need to space the launch of the expressions more carefully to create scarcity and demand within the market while avoiding multiple limited releases on the shelf simultaneously.

Many craft retailers rely on spirit competitions or specialist magazine features to attract retailer and distributor interest. Are there any competitions, publications, or reviewers that you find dramatically impact the demand you see in your retail stores?

ML: We proudly sponsor the San Francisco International Wine & Spirits Competition and also participate as judges. Receiving a Double Gold from SFIWS is highly significant for both our team and our customers.

Notable critics, such as Fred Minnick, have initiated their own events like the Ascot Awards, and I am honored to serve as one of the judges for the Ascots.

Wine Enthusiast stands out as one of the few publications to assign numerical ratings to wines. These scores greatly influence wine and spirits consumers. We believe that any recognition, particularly gold and higher, holds substantial value for both the purchaser and the end consumer. We highlight these accolades and ratings on our product shelf tags through badges and mention them in reviews.

JM: Thank you.

Total Wine & More, a leading liquor retailer in America, was established in 1991 by the Trone brothers, David and Robert. It stands as the largest independent alcohol retailer in the nation.

The chain operates over 200 stores nationwide, offering an expansive range of products, including a plethora of wine options, numerous spirits, and a diverse collection of beers from across the globe.

Total Wine & More is celebrated for its competitive prices, expert staff, and holistic in-store experience, alongside offering educational classes and events aimed at deepening the understanding and enjoyment of alcoholic drinks.

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The extent of the distribution of counterfeit alcohol remains uncertain, with seizures reported in Glasgow and Lanarkshire, Scotland. Its presence in England, Wales, and Northern Ireland has yet to be determined.

Consumers in Britain are advised against consuming counterfeit Glen’s Vodka, which has been discovered to contain an industrial solvent.

The Food Standards Agency (FSA) has issued a warning following the discovery that these fake vodka bottles contain isopropyl alcohol, a toxic substance not safe for human consumption. Ingesting this can rapidly lead to alcohol poisoning, and in extreme cases, death.

Signs of poisoning can include nausea, vomiting, abdominal pain, intoxication, hypoventilation and coma, along with potential cardiovascular failure. Anyone exhibiting these symptoms should immediately seek medical help.

The extent of distribution of counterfeit alcohol remains unclear, leading FSS and Glen’s to offer advice on identifying fake products. Counterfeit bottles were discovered in Scotland, specifically in Glasgow and Lanarkshire. It is still uncertain if the counterfeit products have spread to England, Wales, or Northern Ireland.

A representative from the Loch Lomond Group, which manages Glen’s Vodka, stated, “The well-being and safety of the public and our many dedicated Glen’s customers is our utmost concern.”

“We are actively collaborating with Food Standards Scotland and other relevant authorities to promptly resolve this issue. We encourage any customers who suspect they have a counterfeit product to reach out to their local council’s environmental health service or the Food Standards Scotland Food Crime and Incidents Unit as soon as possible.”

The Food Standards Agency has reported that the counterfeit vodka, found in 35cl bottles, might exhibit an unusual odor and taste differently from authentic vodka. One consumer reported the bottle emitted a “strong smell of nail varnish remover.”

Authentic Glen’s vodka bottles are marked with a laser-etched lot code located between the rear label and the bottle’s base. Should you find a bottle without a laser code, identifiable markings on the base, or if the vodka emits a strong odor, do not consume it.

Legitimate Glen’s Vodka bottles feature base markings that denote the bottle size, fill height, and bottle ID, positioned consistently — bottle size in the top left-hand corner, fill height in the top right, and bottle ID in the bottom left. Despite the presence of a bottle mould number, it should not be used to uniquely identify the product.

For those in possession of compromised bottles, secure the product and inform your Local Authority for guidance and advice. Should you possess any knowledge regarding the manufacture or distribution of fake alcohol, it is critical to reach out to the National Food Crime Unit hotline at 0800 028 1180.

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Mezcal, like its close relative tequila, can be aged in barrels, adopting the same age classification system which includes blanco, reposado, and anejo. The renowned mezcal brand Ilegal recently unveiled a new reposado variant that underwent an unique secondary aging process in rum barrels, infusing it with a hint of tropical fruits alongside its gentle smoky flavor.

Ilegal Mezcal was launched in 2006 by John Rexer. He initially began smuggling unlabeled mezcal from various Oaxaca producers to his bar in Guatemala around 2004, soon recognizing the potential of this then lesser-known agave spirit. His insight was correct, as the category continues to expand, although it hasn’t reached the popularity of tequila. While both spirits originate from agave and are confined to certain Mexican states as per government regulations, tequila is exclusively made from the Blue Weber agave, whereas mezcal can be crafted from many agave varieties, with espadin being most frequently used.

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Almost exactly a year ago, drinks corporation Bacardi acquired Ilegal in a deal worth more than $100 million after a years-long distribution partnership, so it makes sense that this new release would involve rum barrels. The specifics are as follows: The mezcal was initially aged in American white oak barrels for four to six months, a typical amount of time for a reposado expression. It was then transferred into casks that previously held eight-year-old rum (Bacardi Ocho, according to the brand) for up to two additional months in Oaxaca. The mezcal can be sipped neat or used in cocktails, and is said to have notes of tropical fruit, spice, caramel, butterscotch, and agave on the palate.

Ilegal Reposado Caribbean Cask Finish is a limited-edition release, although not nearly as scarce as the 7 Year Añejo that launched in 2022. Just 50 bottles were made available of that exceptional spirit, a seven-year-old mezcal that was aged in just 35 French oak barrels resulting in a peppery, smoky, oaky, luscious expression. Caribbean Cask Finish is more widely available (and much cheaper at about $46 per bottle), and will be available at select retailers nationwide in the coming weeks. In the meantime, you can find the rest of the Ilegal lineup available to purchase at ReserveBar now.

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Teeling Whiskey continues to intrigue Irish Whiskey aficionados with their latest release from the ‘Wonders of Wood’ series by using casks from unconventional locations.

Teeling Wonders of Wood Third Edition: Virgin Swedish Oak

While Sweden might not be top of mind for Irish Whiskey cask maturation, Teeling’s Master Blender, Alex Chasko, embraces the unexpected. “Alex draws inspiration from a variety of sources,” shared Brand Ambassador Rob Caldwell during a special tasting event at Dead Rabbit in New York City. “A Swedish manager at our visitor center sparked the idea. Curious if Sweden produced casks, they did some research, found a supplier and had her initiate contact in Swedish to inquire about purchasing.”

This curiosity led to the creation of the ‘Third Edition Virgin Swedish Oak’, following the ‘Virgin Chinkapin Oak’ and ‘Virgin Portuguese Oak’ releases. This line features Teeling’s Single Pot Still whiskey, crafted from an equal mix of malted and unmalted barley, using both white wine and distillers yeast for fermentation, followed by triple distillation. These whiskeys are then aged in carefully selected casks from across the globe.

“I’m getting a lot of delicate Scandinavian spices,” says Caldwell while tasting. “Wormwood, clove and cinnamon. When we first tasted it I thought maybe I was just supporting my own stereotypes of what I thought I should be getting. But when we tasted it in Sweden the people there were saying the same thing. It opens up the question, are those flavors present in the geography and in their woods? And then does that then influence their cuisine? Or is it vice versa?”

Teeling Wonders of Wood Third Edition: Virgin Swedish Oak

The series has steered Teeling towards trying out many different woods in search of an edge to provide new flavors for fans of their Whiskey. “You can go with Chestnut and all these other unique interesting woods, but even subcategories of oak provide such a diversity of flavor,” says Caldwell. “People are starting to look for that. A little less traditional and a little less brand loyal and a little more open.” And as for some Irish casks? “We didn’t get the flavor profile from Irish oak we were hoping for,” says Caldwell. “Which is unfortunate being that we’re an Irish Whiskey.”

The Irish oak trees will still benefit from the series however. Even though the casks for this release are from Sweden, every entry in the Wonders of Wood series benefits local forests. Teeling has teamed up with the Tree Council of Ireland to replant an acre of native Irish trees across the country. “We know it’s not as simple as take a tree, put it in the ground and taking a photo,” says Caldwell. “Working with professionals gives us the real chance to reforest an area.”

Brothers Jack and Stephen Teeling established their whiskey brand in 2012, with their lineage tracing back to an old Dublin distillery from 1782. By 2015, they inaugurated the first new distillery in Dublin in over a century.

Discussing future plans for the Wonders of Wood series, the loose Irish Whiskey regulations allow for creativity. Caldwell explains, “Scotland wrote the book, creating strict rules for what qualifies as Single Malt Scotch. Ireland followed, albeit loosely, stating merely that it must be aged in wood. This broad directive offers significant freedom, and we believe we are just beginning to explore the possibilities of Irish Whiskey.”

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