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In a gray knit Carhartt hat and Joe Beef sweatshirt, Patrick Cappiello appears nervous as he glances at the camera and begins to speak: “So I’m going to get to my point pretty quickly here, but last week I talked to you about being transparent and telling you everything that happens in the winery, and I spent this weekend really struggling with next steps and wanting to be honest.” Cappiello’s Instagram reel, which at the time of this writing had received over 2,900 likes and more than 400 comments, most of them supportive, went on to explain that after tasting some of the older vintages of his Monte Rio Cellars wine, the sommelier-turned-winemaker found that they were “not only not good, but undrinkable,” leading him to realize he needed to filter his wines and add sulfur to make them stable.

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Former co-owner and wine director of New York City’s Pearl & Ash and Michelin-starred Rebelle, Cappiello went to Sonoma in 2017. His career started as a dishwasher and busboy at 15 years old. Upon moving to New York, he quickly climbed the ladder of wine professionals, starting as a waiter, then moving to sommelier at the Tribeca Grill, and later becoming the wine director at Gilt, which received two Michelin Stars during his time. After 2013, Pearl & Ash quickly gained fame for its comprehensive wine list, lively soundtrack and Cappiello’s routine sabering of champagne bottles; Rebelle, which opened two years later, was awarded a Michelin star. Cappiello was named sommelier of the year by several publications. After closing his two Lower East Side restaurants, he relocated to the west coast to work his first grape harvest and started training with Pax Mahle at Pax Wines in Sebastopol. He decided to trade his suit for T-shirts when he left Gilt to open Pearl & Ash, a casual uniform he has maintained, adjusting only to accommodate weather changes.

In a phone interview, Cappiello discussed working with Mahle, where he continues to produce Monte Rio and co-owns Skull Wines. He mentions Mahle’s winery as an incubator for several successful brands. Initially, Mahle took charge of the first two vintages of Monte Rio, but from 2020 onward, Cappiello has been overseeing all winemaking decisions at Monte Rio.

Cappiello, in his Instagram video, said he chose to speak out against the sommelier community of his past, which he believes is dominated by purists who dictate what characterizes a wine as natural. He states, “I am trying to call out sommeliers who have never made a bottle of wine or risked their lives and finances to start a winery. I’m not going to play by their rules anymore.” Cappiello discussed the inner workings of Monte Rio Cellars and explained his perceived departure from natural wine.

What was the main point you were trying to make with this video?

My intention is to challenge the rigid ideology surrounding natural wines. It seems to me that there’s an overwhelming focus on ticking off a checklist of certain practices or traits. Whether the wine is all carbonic, zero-zero, and the like; these become critical deciding factors for a natural winemaker and the curators of natural wine at shops and restaurants.

Why do you feel the need to be transparent?

My drive towards transparency has grown as I aim for financial stability. This requires engaging in broader conversations with those less gripped by dogma, individuals who value the actual flavor in the glass and the ability to market it. This is imperative for economic stability, especially when the wine is served by the glass in restaurants. It became clear to me that making a reliable wine product was more vital than adhering to the preconceived notions of so-called natural wine enthusiasts who perhaps lack practical winemaking experience or true understanding of what natural wine entails. I’ve always held this view, but haven’t been vocal about it until now. For instance, I’ve been implementing the cross-flow technique for a while, and 2021 marked the first time I used it for a white wine. It’s rather irrational, but I can’t help feeling somewhat guilty after doing it, as if I’ve done something forbidden.

What part of the wine community did you think was going to take the most issue with your transparency?

My objective was to shake things up among those who were crafting a narrative about natural wine and what they believe others should be doing. And this can significantly influence other buyers. I am well aware how daunting and bullying this culture can be, whether it’s about what constitutes natural wine, or what is considered trendy or quality wine. It’s unfortunate but sommeliers and wine merchants aren’t always kind to one another. The domineering nature and gatekeeping tactics get passed down. In my eyes, it resembles the dogmatic religious approaches used while I was growing up in a born-again Christian family. With these influences, it’s often just word of mouth and divine insinuation that we pass onto others as important. This idea grows increasingly corrupt when you realize it’s people who think they know better imposing their opinions and interpretations. With wine, it’s no different. Too many individuals dictate how things should be.

Do you consider yourself a natural winemaker?

I’ve always perceived myself as someone who makes wine naturally, rather than being a natural winemaker. To begin with, this term is still undefined, and using it to label something as natural wine can be risky since there’s no set definition and it has been a debate for a long time. Also, it was a community I wasn’t keen to join. The idea of being a natty wine producer, to bro it down, didn’t gel well with me. If you ask me whether I consider myself a natural winemaker now, I am not certain. I used to think I was, but perhaps now that’s a decision others will have to make for me.

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