Vines at Beckstoffer Dr. Crane vineyard

In recent years, Cabernet Franc has been stealthily gaining favorable attention among wine enthusiasts and Napa Valley vintners, rising from its former role as an element of Bordeaux blends and moving onto center stage. “The secret is out and for good reason,” says wine writer Kristy Wenz.

But this surge in popularity is no mere fad. Wenz calls Cabernet Franc “eminently drinkable,” known for its freshness, vibrant acidity and versatility in food pairings. It offers a spectrum of flavors, from lush, dark fruits with significant aging potential to crunchy red, brambly fruits with green pepper notes.

Winemaking styles and geography contribute to this diverse range of expressions. Interestingly, the grape is also practical in the vineyard, requiring less growing season than its family member and Napa Valley darling, Cabernet Sauvignon. This makes Cabernet Franc more reliable in cooler vintages and ensures its availability for early harvests when weather conditions and fire smoke pose threats.

Winemaker Chris Carpenter of La Jota Vineyard Co. says that concern about climate change and fire danger by way of smoke taint makes varieties that ripen earlier more desirable, as California growers “want to get fruit off the vine as quickly as possible before any big fire event.”

Beyond its utility in the vineyard, Wenz notes that an increasing number of winemakers around the world—from Tuscany, Hungary, Languedoc, South Africa, Argentina and North America, particularly California and Washington—are now making exemplary single-expression Cabernet Franc.

Initially attracted by the grape’s distinctiveness, Carpenter has since championed the use of some of the valley’s oldest Cabernet Franc plantings. He sheds light on the historical importance of these vines, tracing their origins back to 1976 when Bill Smith acquired the then-dormant La Jota Vineyard and winery.

Contrary to the previous owners, who were known for their white wine grapes, Smith planted Bordeaux varieties. However, his decision to plant these on St. George rootstock rather than AXR, a common choice in the valley, allowed these vines to escape the devastation of phylloxera. These very vines continue to thrive today, their age contributing to consistent growth patterns, ripening curves and a concentration of flavor and texture that truly reflects the character of the variety.

“That block sets the flavor standard by which we judge all the subsequent blocks we have planted since we took over in 2005,” says Carpenter. La Jota’s current vintage 2019 Cabernet Franc sells for $125 direct to consumers.

Carpenter says Cabernet Franc appeals to wine drinkers who like to have choices when it comes to “varietal expression, across varieties.” He believes this grape offers a unique experience, likening it to the difference between the bands Nirvana and Foo Fighters: “Distinctive though similar, and in a very analogous way as one was derived from the other, as Cabernet Sauvignon is a cross of Cabernet Franc and Sauvignon Blanc.”

The rising popularity of Cabernet Franc is a positive sign of diversity in wine offerings, says Carpenter. He believes that its unique qualities set it apart from other profiles and make it increasingly appealing to both consumers and the winemaking community.

Originating from France, specifically Bordeaux and the Loire Valley regions, Cabernet Franc showcases unique expressions in both areas, enriching the wine experience. Carpenter believes that experienced wine drinkers could argue Cabernet France stands shoulder to shoulder with the greatest of Cabernet Sauvignon wines: “Cheval Blanc being the great example of that.”

As per the increasing consumer interest for unique and distinctive flavors, Carpenter predicts a growing preference for Cabernet Franc. “From a tasting standpoint, it offers a perfect blend of red and black fruit,” he comments. Furthermore, Carpenter notes a herbal essence, which could be explicit, as in the Loire-style focus, or implicit, much like the Right Bank style. Cabernet Franc tannins may look like Cabernet Sauvignon but are more coarse-grained, suggests Carpenter. It also features a “delightful floral rose petal aroma that offsets the herbal aspect,” remarks the La Jota winemaker.

Historically, marketing varied grapes and wine styles in Napa Valley has posed challenges, Carpenter explains. However, he advocates for Cabernet Franc as deserving of recognition and celebration. Carpenter argues, “If more wineries made an effort, the choice for a unique Napa Valley Cabernet Franc experience would make wine lovers think twice before choosing France over California. You might guess that I have a certain bias.”

Old vine Cabernet Franc is found at La Jota Vineyard Co.

Matt Sands, winemaker at Lithology, situated at the foot of Howell Mountain, is acclaimed for his work with the Cabernet Franc grape. He is devoted to gaining acknowledgment for the “incredible untapped potential” of lesser-known grape varieties thriving in Napa Valley. He aspires to lead future winemakers with his experimentation and passion for producing exceptional wines in an ever-evolving environment. “This encompasses demonstrating how impressively Cabernet Franc can emerge as a vital Napa Valley pillar,” professes Sands.

From the esteemed Beckstoffer To Kalon and Beckstoffer Dr. Crane vineyards, he reveals that Cabernet Franc wines from these vineyards are distinctive, characterized by strong floral scents, including violets, lavender, and wildflowers. Lithology Beckstoffer Dr. Crane Cabernet Franc stands out thanks to its unique, single-variety production from this well known vineyard. Unfortunately, the current release 2019 is no longer available.

According to Sands, Cabernet Sauvignon shall continue to be a regional frontrunner. On the other hand, venturing into other grape varieties lets vineyard owners display their creativity, identify what thrives in their vineyards, and present their intriguing discoveries to high-end wine lovers.

“Myself and a few other upcoming winemakers are eager to explore the Valley’s complete potential,” states Sands. He categorizes Cabernet Franc as “prevalent but underutilized,” believing a shift is occurring where these grapes can and should play a significant role in Napa. “The more we test the limits of what is expected of this region, the more of its full potential we can uncover.”

There’s also a market demand for Cabernet Franc, Sands points out. “From a consumer’s point of view, we’re noticing the arrival of the curious consumer who deviates from the usual wine drinking habits to explore more.” Sands is confident that if this curiosity persists, along with investments by winegrowers in Cabernet Franc, this grape’s popularity is set to rise further.