A vineyard in Bolgheri, Tuscany: A Tale of Passion and Resilience

The scorching heat weighed heavily on the winemaker as she carefully made her way through the vineyards of Bolgheri, Tuscany. The grape bunches hanging from the vines were a stark reminder of the challenging conditions brought about by a particularly hot spell that had been named “Lucifer.” The summer of 2017 had proven to be an arduous growing season, with the sun mercilessly beating down, offering no respite from its fiery wrath.

But when one works for one of the greatest Italian wine producers, there is an unwavering commitment to carry out the job, no matter the circumstances. Meticulous care is required, as the grapes must be sorted at various stages. Even after undergoing the lengthy process of becoming wine meant for an iconic Italian producer, the final product may still be deemed unworthy and sold off. Such is the life of those who strive for greatness.

Despite the relentless heat that drained the energy from the workers, the passion that burned within them could not be extinguished. They triumphed over the most challenging of circumstances, demonstrating their dedication to the craft of winemaking. Olga Fusari, the winemaker at Ornellaia, acknowledged that the summer of 2017 was the hottest and driest in the estate’s history. This revelation came as a surprise, as the resulting wines were remarkably fresh, brimming with acidity and pure fruit expression.

Ornellaia, located in the village of Bolgheri along the Tuscan coast, has long been inspired by the outstanding wines of Bordeaux. The marriage of Bordeaux grape varieties with the unique terroir of Bolgheri yielded extraordinary wines, earning them the moniker of “Super Tuscans.” These wines, including Ornellaia, captivated the world with their exceptional quality and relatively reasonable prices compared to their Bordeaux counterparts.

Le Serre Nuove dell’Ornellaia, Ornellaia’s second wine, followed in the footsteps of the great estates of Bordeaux. It served as a stricter selection for the estate’s top wine, offering a slightly less expensive alternative without compromising quality. However, as time went on, Ornellaia carved its own path and established its distinct identity. Today, some wineries aspire to be like Ornellaia rather than emulate the top Bordeaux estates.

Despite its youth, Ornellaia has made significant strides in understanding its vineyards since its first vintage release in 1985. Decades of exploration and study have provided valuable insights into the management of their precious soils. This knowledge has empowered them to better cultivate their vineyards, resulting in wines of exceptional character and distinction.

The story of Ornellaia is not just about a vineyard and its wines. It is a tale of passion and resilience, of a winemaker and her team who refuse to be deterred by the harshest of conditions. It is an ode to the pursuit of excellence, a testament to the power of dedication and continuous learning. Ornellaia stands as a shining example in the world of winemaking, inspiring others to strive for greatness and forge their own path.

The expression and quality of a sense of place are crucial when it comes to winemaking. Every vineyard has its unique characteristics that influence the taste and character of the wine produced. One vineyard that has truly embraced this concept is Ornellaia estate.

Olga, the winemaker at Ornellaia, explains that they have spent a considerable amount of time analyzing the different components of their soils. Through this process, they discovered that the sandy soils of their vineyard gave the wines of Le Serre Nuove a remarkable freshness and finesse. This realization led them to reconsider the original criteria of using only the youngest vines for this wine.

In the past, Le Serre Nuove was intended to be an accessible version of Ornellaia, available at an earlier stage. However, over time, it has gained recognition for expressing a unique quality of the vineyard. Just like Ornellaia rose to prominence and separated itself from the Bordeaux greats, Le Serre Nuove has emerged from the shadow of its predecessor.

The 2020 vintage was particularly challenging, but not for the reasons one might expect. As the world was grappling with the ravages of the COVID-19 pandemic, winemakers faced unprecedented difficulties. This tragedy made it difficult for people to focus on vintage reports and updates from Tuscany and elsewhere.

Despite these challenges, the growing season of 2020 proved to be favorable. The hot and warm summer, although not as extreme as in 2017, allowed for a higher amount of acidity to be retained in the grapes. Coupled with cool nights, this resulted in an enchanting aromatic profile that distinguishes the wines of Le Serre Nuove.

The 2020 Le Serre Nuove wines have enough concentration to age well, yet the ripe tannins create a silky texture that makes them enjoyable even now. Considering the difficult conditions under which these wines were produced, it is astounding to find such refined, refreshing, and stunning qualities in each bottle. These wines exemplify elegance and prove that even the worst times cannot compromise their graceful quality.

To illustrate the evolution and consistency of Le Serre Nuove, let’s take a look at a vertical tasting of different vintages:

– The 2020 Le Serre Nuove dell’Ornellaia is a blend of 44% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Cabernet Franc, and 13% Petit Verdot. It exhibits intriguing aromas of granite, rosemary, and tarragon, with subtle spices in the background. The mouthfeel is stunning, striking a perfect balance between plush, ripe red fruit and overall brightness.

– The 2019 Le Serre Nuove dell’Ornellaia is composed of 54% Merlot, 28% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Cabernet Franc, and 4% Petit Verdot. It offers a charming nose, with lifted aromatics of Mediterranean scrub and hints of lilacs. The slightly firm structure gives shape to the wine, while a prolonged expression of forest floor lingers on the finish.

– In contrast, the 2017 Le Serre Nuove dell’Ornellaia consists of 54% Merlot, 26% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Cabernet Franc, and 6% Petit Verdot. It reveals ripe red cherries on the nose, laced with intense minerality and a touch of lushness. The wine unfolds with notes of fresh leather and cigar box, while maintaining a reserved elegance.

– The 2015 Le Serre Nuove dell’Ornellaia showcases a complex nose of tobacco leaf, broken earth, and shaved black truffles. This vintage, which blends 64% Merlot, 17% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc, and 9% Petit Verdot, delivers finesse and elegance on a generous body, mesmerizing with its refined and delicious fruit.

– Finally, the 2014 Le Serre Nuove dell’Ornellaia comprises 50% Merlot, 34% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Cabernet Franc, and 7% Petit Verdot. It presents pristine red fruit, such as strawberries and raspberries, along with hints of savory spice. The wine’s crisp acidity, fresh sage notes, and very fine tannins provide a caressing texture.

This vertical tasting highlights the consistency and evolution of Le Serre Nuove, showcasing its ability to embody elegance and excellence across different vintages. These wines have undoubtedly demonstrated that even challenging circumstances, such as a worldwide pandemic or extreme weather conditions, cannot compromise their graceful quality. They are a testament to the resilience and artistry of winemaking at Ornellaia estate.