Wollersheim Winery, located in Prairie du Sac, Wisconsin, is a beloved destination for wine enthusiasts. Every year, over 350,000 people visit the winery to savor its exquisite wines. However, the winery’s success may not have been possible if it weren’t for a pivotal moment in 1988.
The story begins with Philippe Coquard, a winemaker from Beaujolais, France. Coquard had initially planned to pursue his wine education in California but ended up in Wisconsin instead. There, he became an apprentice to Bob Wollersheim, who had purchased the winery in 1972. During his time there, Coquard fell in love with Wollersheim’s daughter, Julie.
Wollersheim Winery has a rich history dating back to the 1800s when the first grapes were planted by Agoston Haraszthy, a Hungarian pioneer often referred to as the father of California wine. Before settling in California, Haraszthy spent some time in Wisconsin, planting grapes and living in the region.
However, in 1988, Wollersheim Winery was facing significant challenges. Coquard recalls, “We might have gone back to France – there was not enough money to grow anything.” It was during this difficult period that Coquard and Julie realized they needed to come up with a winemaking idea that would help keep their family winery afloat.
One evening, while dining out, Coquard tried a Fumé Blanc and had a realization. He decided to create something similar but using Seyval Blanc grapes instead of Sauvignon Blanc. Coquard wanted to capture the aromatic profile of the delicious grapes in the resulting wine. Determined to make this idea a reality, he immersed himself in research, even seeking guidance from his father, an experienced winemaker in France.
Coquard employed cold crashing to stop the fermentation process and retain the desired flavors and aromas. The wine resulting from this technique was named Prairie Fumé, paying homage to the winery’s location in Prairie du Sac. Released in 1989, the very first vintage of Prairie Fumé quickly garnered numerous accolades at wine competitions.
Prairie Fumé possesses a natural sweetness due to the halted fermentation, which also gives it a 10 percent alcohol by volume, providing complexity and weight. Today, Wollersheim Winery produces over two dozen different wines, including Scarlet Fumé, a semi-dry red wine, and Prairie Blush, a semi-dry rosé. Prairie Fumé became Wollersheim’s flagship wine, attracting visitors from near and far.
Coquard and his daughter, Celine, who will be the 14th generation winemaker in their family, work together to craft exceptional wines. Coquard expresses his pride in her talent, saying, “She has it. We taste the same way. She has the (natural born) talent.”
As Prairie Fumé approaches its 35th anniversary next year and Coquard celebrates 40 years of winemaking at Wollersheim, one thing remains constant: a commitment to quality. Coquard asserts, “Quality has always been the driving factor in our wines.”
Wollersheim Winery and Distillery have become an agritourism hotspot, attracting visitors from neighboring states like Illinois, Iowa, Minnesota, Indiana, and beyond. With its storied past, exceptional wines, and a dedication to quality, Wollersheim Winery continues to flourish, thanks to one winemaker’s “eureka” moment.
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