Introducing: The Natural Wine Revolution

The wine industry is experiencing a shift, as wine made in ancient ways gains new fans. Natural wine, which embodies sustainability and minimal processing, is capturing growing interest in the United States. Surprisingly, this surge comes at a time when overall wine consumption has been declining since 2015, according to IWSR Drinks Market Analysis, a reputable research firm. Although natural and other sustainable wines accounted for less than 1% of sales in 2021, their demand was outpacing the entire wine category, as reported by alcohol delivery site Drizly.

So, what makes natural wine different? Natural wine is crafted from hand-picked organic grapes that have not been exposed to herbicides or pesticides. Following the ancient practices of the Romans, these grapes are gently crushed — sometimes using the winemaker’s own feet, embracing tradition. Then, the natural fermentation process takes place, with no addition of water, yeast, or other ingredients. Some natural winemakers opt to add sulfites, a naturally occurring chemical found in grapes, as a preservative, while others refrain. Additionally, some filter their wines, while others leave them unfiltered, resulting in a cloudy appearance and sediment. The end product is wines that are earthy, savory, and less predictable compared to those mass-produced by large wine producers.

Naturally, a trend as promising as natural wine is not without its challenges. Unlike organic wine, which requires government certification, natural wine lacks a formal definition in the United States. It is also challenging to find in stores, as most natural wines do not explicitly label themselves as such. “Natural” may sound appealing, but Anita Oberholster, a professor at the University of California, Davis, suggests that “conventional wine is pretty natural too.” Therefore, defining and researching natural wine will be crucial for its growth.

One winemaker who has taken up the mantle of championing natural winemaking is John Keller, the owner and winemaker at Neu Cellars in Northern Michigan. Armed with a biochemistry degree, Keller previously worked for a large winemaker in California but became disillusioned by the heavy chemical manipulation involved in ensuring consistency in each bottle. In 2019, Keller and his father opened Neu Cellars with a singular focus on producing natural wines. Last year, they proudly produced 3,000 bottles. Keller describes natural winemaking as a nerve-wracking process, as he can only practice once a year and cannot resort to additives if something goes wrong. It’s a process that requires trust in the natural elements and the conditions for the best outcome.

While natural wine may seem like a recent fad, Erin Coburn, owner of Minimo, a natural wine bar in Oakland, California, explains that it is more akin to a return to tradition. In countries like Georgia, winemakers never ceased producing natural wine; they continue to ferment grapes in egg-shaped clay pots that have been used for thousands of years. However, drawing a line between natural and conventional wines can be challenging, particularly when it comes to high-quality wines made with exceptional grapes. Many additives commonly used in winemaking, such as yeast for fermentation, are natural substances found in vineyards. Moreover, many conventional wines are crafted without the addition of additives.

To address the need for distinction, some in the industry advocate for adopting standards for natural wine, as seen in France. The French wine industry approved the “vin méthode nature” label and certification process in 2020. Since then, over 430 vintages have proudly displayed this label, according to the Union for the Defense of Natural Wines. Brian Gelb, Vice President of Wine for Total Wine, a major retail chain with stores across the United States, has been responding to the growing demand by introducing natural wines onto their shelves over the past two years. However, Gelb acknowledges the difficulty in determining how much of their inventory already falls under the “natural” category. Thus, having consistent terms and phrases that are universally understood would greatly benefit both consumers and retailers.

In conclusion, the rise of natural wine represents a revolution within the wine industry. As consumers become increasingly conscious of sustainability and minimal processing, the demand for natural wine continues to grow, defying the overall declining trend in wine consumption. Although obstacles remain, such as the lack of a standardized definition and limited availability, the passion and commitment of winemakers like John Keller are driving the movement forward. Natural wine is not just a passing fad; it symbolizes a return to tradition and an appreciation for the individuality and character that can be found in a bottle. So, the next time you raise your glass, consider indulging in the flavors and stories woven into a natural wine, and join the natural wine revolution.

The fascinating world of wine is one filled with complexities and nuances. From the grape varieties to the aging process, every aspect of winemaking adds to the final product. But in recent years, there has been a growing concern about the use of natural imagery by wine brands without clear transparency about what “natural” really means.

Anthony Zhang, the co-founder and CEO of Vinovest, a wine investment company, has highlighted this issue. He believes that some wine brands are taking advantage of the lack of standards surrounding the term “natural” and using it as a marketing tool. This can mislead consumers, who are often willing to pay a premium for wines made by smaller producers using natural methods.

One example of this is Absentee Red, a natural California red blend that costs around $26 per bottle. Vivino, an online wine merchant, states that similar conventional wines start around $14. This significant price difference suggests that consumers are willing to pay more for wines labeled as “natural.”

However, not all winemakers are enthusiastic about the idea of standards. While Keller, a winemaker who uses organic grapes, supports the concept, he feels that the cost and rules associated with certification are not justifiable. Furthermore, Cheryl Stanley, a food and beverage management lecturer at Cornell University, raises questions about what truly defines a “natural” wine. With so many different perceptions, she wonders if any wine can truly be considered completely natural, considering the human intervention involved throughout the winemaking process.

Despite these challenges, there is hope for greater transparency in the future. Starting in December, wines sold in the European Union will be required to carry ingredient labels and nutrition information. This change can empower consumers by providing them with more information about the wines they purchase. It is expected that the United States will follow suit in the coming years.

Pax Mahle, the proprietor and winemaker at Pax Wine Cellars, is an advocate for natural winemaking. He crushes his grapes by foot, showing his dedication to traditional methods. However, he also believes in the freedom to make small adjustments, such as adding sugar or acid if necessary. Mahle’s approach emphasizes the importance of making high-quality wine, rather than adhering to strict absolutes.

In the end, the natural wine movement is not about absolute rules but rather about producing exceptional wines. While standardized definitions and labeling can help consumers make more informed choices, it is crucial to remember that the true value of a wine lies in its taste and quality. So, the next time you raise a glass of wine, take a moment to appreciate the craftsmanship behind it and savor the unique experience it offers.