Yamabuki, 2023 Oak Knoll District, Napa Valley Albariño, 14.2%, $38, 4.5 stars. A fresh and vibrant Albariño featuring a blend of citrus and tropical flavors. Highlights include pineapple, orange zest, and mineral elements. Remarkable.
Chappellet, 2023 Signature, Napa Valley Chenin Blanc, 14.1%, $75, 4 stars. This Chenin Blanc presents layers of Meyer lemon, quince, and nectarine. It maintains a balanced profile with a crisp finish. Charming.
Cormorant, 2023 Fenaughty Vineyard, El Dorado County Vermentino, 12.4%, $28, 4 stars. This Vermentino offers delightful aromas of white peach, lime, and grapefruit. Ends with a crisp finish. Attractive.
Longboard Vineyards, 2023 Elieo Vineyard, Russian River Valley Albarino, 13.1%, $36, 4 stars. This Albariño is bursting with lively citrus, stone fruit, and mineral notes, supported by a crisp acidity, making it exceptionally well-made.
The esteemed Shozaburo Dogura, a pioneering entrepreneur and initially among Japan’s conservationists, would undoubtedly appreciate the dedication shown by his great granddaughter, Miki Cunat, through her role in developing a collection of wines at Napa’s Materra Cunat Family Vineyards honoring his legacy.
One highlight from this collection is the Albariño titled Yamabuki, 2023 Oak Knoll District, Napa Valley, priced at $38. This Wine of the Week recipient, crafted by Director of Winemaking Chelsea Barrett, showcases a vibrant and refreshing profile with flavors of pineapple, orange zest, and mineral undertones.
The name Yamabuki originates from a bright yellow flower in the rose family that blossoms from April to May in Japan. In Hanakotoba, the Japanese language of flowers, Yamabuki symbolizes “elegance” and “luck with money,” aptly reflecting Dogura’s prosperous life.
Besides his environmental initiatives, Dogura contributed significantly to infrastructure development including road construction in Japan and railroad projects in Taiwan. He also supported several newspapers and played a role in founding significant educational institutions such as Nihon Joshi Daigaku, Japan’s inaugural women’s university, and Doshisha University.
Albariño, a white grape from Galicia in northwest Spain, is seldom found in California vineyards.
“Albariño is quite unique for our area, providing an exotic flavor for many patrons,” said Barrett. “It’s a wonderful wine that pairs splendidly with various dishes, including seafood, dishes with tomato bases, and notably, paella.”
In 2020, the Napa winery started cultivating Albariño vines, with the first batch of these vines being bottled in 2023.
“Cultivating young vines requires attention to develop strong roots and canopy systems,” Barrett noted. “We have excellent conditions on our land and 2023 has been a particularly favorable year for growth.”
Barrett, originally from Calistoga, completed her viticulture and enology studies at UC Davis in 2010. Following her graduation, she worked at Opus One in Oakville and then at Joel Gott Wines, in Napa and St. Helena. She later joined forces with Heidi Barrett, her mother, on various labels including Amuse Bouche, Au Sommet, and Aviatrix in Calistoga, before managing winemaking operations at Materra starting in 2019.
Materra, established by Brian and Miki Cunat in 2007, produces under 10,000 cases of wine annually. The vineyard’s production includes varieties such as Albariño, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petite Sirah, and Syrah.
In June, a newly constructed 10,000-square-foot tasting and event facility was unveiled at the winery. The venue, designed with both indoor and outdoor tasting areas, boasts 25-foot high ceilings, dormer windows, and a covered patio.
The grand gallery room regularly updates its exhibits, showcasing a collection of the Cunat family’s valued possessions ranging from Japanese artifacts to classic automobiles. The facility also features a private event space and a catering kitchen.
The vision is to have a full-time chef, who will pair traditional Japanese dishes with the winery’s Japanese series of wines.
“We’re extremely excited to welcome guests for a sneak peek of our newly opened tasting room,” said Barrett, adding that the Yamabuki Albariño is one of the most intriguing in the lineup.
“It’s wonderful, because our property is very conducive to growing phenomenal Albariño,” she said.
You can reach wine writer Peg Melnik at 707-521-5310 or peg.melnik@pressdemocrat.com. On X (Twitter) @pegmelnik.
Yamabuki, 2023 Oak Knoll District, Napa Valley Albariño, 14.2%, $38, 4.5 stars. Delicately flavored with a blend of citrus and tropical fruits, this Albariño showcases hints of pineapple, orange zest, and mineral elements in a fresh and appealing style.
Chappellet, 2023 Signature, Napa Valley Chenin Blanc, 14.1%, $75, 4 stars. Featuring aromatic layers of Meyer lemon, quince, and nectarine, this Chenin Blanc offers a balanced and crisp finish, exuding charm with every sip.
Cormorant, 2023 Fenaughty Vineyard, El Dorado County Vermentino, 12.4%, $28, 4 stars. This Vermentino presents delightful aromas of white peach, lime, and grapefruit, culminating in a crisp finish that enhances its elegance.
Longboard Vineyards, 2023 Elieo Vineyard, Russian River Valley Albarino, 13.1%, $36, 4 stars. Exhibiting a vibrant mix of citrus, stone fruit, and mineral notes, this Albariño is crafted expertly with a zesty acidity, making it exceptionally refined.
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