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Masters of Aglianico: Exploring the Iconic Red Wine Grape of Southern Italy

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The Aglianico grape, known for its thick skin and high tannin, flourishes in the southern Italian regions of Basilicata and Campania. It commands respect in the world of fine wines, renowned for producing age-worthy bottles that become more complex over time. Although it was previously dubbed the "Barolo of the South," a title that limited its perception, Aglianico’s unique characteristics and regional diversity are gaining recognition.

Aglianico is predominantly associated with two key appellations: Aglianico del Vulture in Basilicata and Taurasi in Campania. Each offers distinct expressions of the grape, enriched by local terroirs and winemaking practices. Aglianico del Taburno and Cilento DOC are emerging regions that further showcase the grape’s versatility.

Harvested later than many other Italian varieties, Aglianico benefits from extended ripening, which allows for deep flavor development and full phenolic maturity. The wines often exhibit a complex aromatic profile with notes of black cherry, plum, and herbs, evolving over time into earthy, savory tones.

In Basilicata, the volcanic soils of Monte Vulture give Aglianico wines a fresh and floral character, largely thanks to the region’s high altitude and mineral-rich terrain. Notable winemakers such as Elena Fucci and Fabio Mecca are producing exceptional wines that highlight the unique terroir. Fucci’s Titolo is a benchmark for refining volcanic expressions, while Mecca’s Don Anselmo exemplifies elegance.

Moving west to Irpinia, Taurasi wines present a different narrative, influenced by a mix of soil types and elevations. The historic Mastroberardino estate has made significant contributions to this region, with its 1968 Taurasi Riserva celebrated as a classic aged red. Other producers like Feudi di San Gregorio have also broadened Taurasi’s appeal with approachable fruit-forward offerings.

In southern Campania, the warmer Cilento DOC is producing riper and more accessible Aglianico wines. Producers such as San Salvatore 1988 embrace biodynamic practices to explore the coastal influences on the grape’s expression, resulting in vibrant wines with distinct aromatic profiles.

Lastly, Aglianico del Taburno rounds out the list of significant production areas. Its wines are characterized by fuller body and softer tannins, often reaching maturity more quickly than their Taurasi counterparts, making them an accessible introduction to the Aglianico experience.

As these regions assert their identities, Aglianico is enjoying a renaissance. Producers are refining their methods, exploring longer aging processes, and focusing on vineyard management to reveal the grape’s full potential. With its growing recognition and diverse expressions, Aglianico is firmly establishing itself as a staple of Italy’s fine wine scene, poised to capture the attention it deserves.

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February 1, 2025 Wine
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