Penne alla vodka is a simple dish with an unexpectedly rich flavor, and Ina Garten’s version gets its depth from an unusual step: roasting the sauce in the oven.

Rather than preparing vodka sauce quickly on the stovetop, Garten lets it cook slowly for about 90 minutes. The extended roasting concentrates the tomatoes’ sweetness and gives the sauce a fuller flavor. The recipe is inspired by the version served at Hamptons restaurant Nick & Toni’s.

How the sauce comes together

Start by sautéing yellow onions in olive oil until translucent. Add garlic, crushed red pepper, and dried oregano, then pour in the vodka. The vodka helps bring the sauce’s flavors together and temper the tomatoes’ acidity. It also helps the cream blend smoothly into the sauce later.

Once the alcohol’s aroma has faded, add two 28-ounce cans of whole peeled tomatoes, drained and crushed by hand. Season with salt and pepper, cover the pan, and roast the sauce in the oven for about an hour and a half. Save the drained tomato juice to loosen the sauce later, if needed.

When the tomatoes have cooked down, blend the sauce until smooth and return it to the pot. Stir in heavy cream, which softens the flavor and gives the sauce its familiar rosy color. Add al dente penne and let it finish cooking in the sauce so the pasta absorbs its flavor. Finish with freshly grated Parmesan for richness and a savory edge.

The process takes longer than a quick stovetop sauce, but the concentrated flavor makes the extra time worthwhile. The recipe also makes a generous batch, so you can freeze some for another meal.

Get Ina Garten’s penne alla vodka recipe.