Bart Fawbush has faced his share of challenges building a boutique winery known for its unusual varietals.

Bartholomew Winery began in leased quarters in West Seattle and later moved to Kennewick, where it was one of the first wineries to join the Columbia Gardens wine village near the cable bridge.

Moving presented challenges as did opening in a new location just beginning to draw attention from the wine-drinking public.

Bartholomew is too small to secure a contract with a national beverage distributor. It relies almost exclusively on direct-to-customer sales in its tasting room.

Challenges aside, Bartholomew Winery is a profitable business with a growing wine club, Fawbush said. It produces about 3,000 cases annually and occasionally bottles small batches for third parties.

Amid a global downturn in demand for wine, it is the kind of success Washington wine industry leaders want to highlight.

Industry leaders who gathered for the recent annual WineVit conference in Tri-Cities say the industry needs to change its messaging.

WineVit, organized by the Washington Winegrowers Association, was held earlier in February and convened winemakers, growers, vendors and others.

Despite the prevailing chatter about a worldwide surplus of wine, falling demand, rivalry from craft beers and spirits, indifference from the younger generation, and the contemporary movement towards sobriety, it’s claimed that Washington’s $9.5 billion wine industry needs to shed its pessimistic outlook and celebrate its victories as it competes for a larger portion of a diminishing market.

Adam Schulz, the proprietor of the Incredible Bulk Wine Co. in Walla Walla, who presented during the state of the industry meeting, remarked, “The scent of desperation is reviled by people. It doesn’t assist in the marketing of wine.”

Admittedly, Washington’s Ste. Michelle Wine Estates canceled 40% of its grape contracts in 2023 and put a stop to production at its 14 Hands Winery in Prosser.

There are thousands of gallons of unsold bulk wine accumulating in storage tanks, impacting future output.

However, as officials point out, Washington should dedicate less attention to negativity and strive more for a larger piece of the market.

The Washington wine scene can benefit and grow from smaller wineries like Bartholomew, contributing to the goal of ‘a bottle of wine on every table’—which is the Washington Wine Association’s mantra.

Fawbush endorses this positive direction, provided it is accompanied by a genuine push to promote Washington wines.

When speaking about his own winery, he highlights how it remains small, flexible, and devoid of debt. It thrives through ongoing innovation and trying different things, he says. Varietals including Carmenere, Tannat, and Primitivo form part of his interesting lineup. These unique offerings in Washington aid in attracting patrons to his tasting rooms.

He avoids wine sampling in favor of forming relationships and educating customers about the wine they are consuming.

“When a customer is at the doorway, it’s crucial to seize that business opportunity as effectively as you can,” commented Fawbush.

Wine is a vital commodity for Washington.

Wine America estimated that the industry contributed $9.5 billion to Washington’s economy in 2022. It’s one of the key agricultural outputs of the state.

Wine supports 61,300 jobs, $4.1 billion in wages and generated $771 million in taxes, including $277 million for state and local governments.

Kristina Kelley, the new executive director of the Washington Wine Commission, understands the challenges but notes they’re not unique.

“I think the problems we have here in Washington are no different than any other wine region,” she said.

Negative headlines don’t help, she said.

“It is not, ‘Woe is Washington,” she said, referring to a headline in the Oct. 31, 2023 edition of Wine Spectator magazine that accompanied a column about the Ste. Michelle cutbacks.

Kelley anticipate several flat years for Washington wine, but is committed to promoting the state’s diverse wines. The bottle-on-every-table mission suits Washington’s diverse wines, grapes, styles and price ranges.

“There is an opportunity to be part of every occasion,” she said. “There is no need to go outside of Washington.”

She acknowledged there will be pain ahead as the industry adjusts, as seen with the Ste. Michelle contract cuts. Schulz, of Incredible Bulk, referred to it as “a state of imbalance.”

As per the influential 2024 State of the US Wine Industry Report compiled by Rob McMillan, the founder and Executive Vice President of the Silicon Valley Bank division of First Citizens Bank, there is an overwhelming surplus of vineyards at a national level.

The report mentions that the category under $12 saw demand dwindling, whereas the higher price ranges managed to keep their sales volumes in the positive territory.

McMillan’s forecast for 2024 suggests that premium winehouses will experience success; however, for high-production wineries, the future does not seem as promising.

According to the report, “There are two solutions to declining wine demand.”

We either work together to create a resonant message that positively influences consumption, or we use whatever means we have to increase efficiency in production, grape growing and marketing.

Kelley, of the Washington Wine Commission, embraces both.

The state has a close-knit wine community known for its cooperative spirit. And it is eager to expand its message to reach customers.

I do have a sense of optimism, she said.

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