As climate change continues to reshape our world, it is no surprise that wine experts have long been concerned about its impact on the wine industry. Shifts in harvest seasons, lower quality wine, and restricted plant growth have all been potential outcomes of a changing climate. However, a recent study published in iScience suggests that Bordeaux, one of the world’s premier wine-growing regions, may actually benefit from climate change – at least for now.

The study analyzed a 70-year dataset of wine critic scores in Bordeaux, paired with high-resolution weather data from the same period. The findings revealed that wine quality in Bordeaux has increased over time, with factors such as rich and strong taste improving. The researchers focused on 19 controlled designations of origin (AOCs), which are French geographical regions known for their unique wine characteristics and production methods.

The statistical models used in the study tested how each AOC’s wine quality was related to weather factors such as season length, temperature, and precipitation. Surprisingly, the highest-quality Bordeaux wines were found to come from years with warmer, drier summers, cooler, wetter winters, and earlier, shorter growing seasons – conditions that climate change is predicted to make more frequent in the region. Warmer temperatures, in particular, can increase the sugar content in grapes, resulting in sweeter wine.

One unexpected finding was the positive impact of increased rainfall during the non-growing winter season on wine quality in the following harvest. Traditionally, weather conditions during the growing season are considered the main influencers of grape quality. However, the study revealed that weather conditions in the non-growing season also play a significant role in the subsequent harvest. More winter rain leads to better water balance in the soil during the growing season, providing optimal conditions for grapevine health and, ultimately, grape quality.

The improvement in wine quality could also be attributed to advances in winemaking technology or changing critics’ preferences, the study authors noted. However, the researchers chose Bordeaux for their study precisely because its wineries rely heavily on traditional methods, such as hand-harvesting grapes, to limit the influence of changing technology on the data.

To assess wine quality, the researchers collected wine scores from various public sources, including online vintage charts and 14 wine publications such as Wine Spectator, Cellar Insider, and Hachette Wine Guide. Despite the subjectivity of wine critic scores, there was a surprising consensus among their opinions. Wood and his colleagues found that critics, catering to different markets with varying preferences, tended to agree on the quality of wines. The general consensus was that people preferred stronger, sweeter, and richer wines.

Interestingly, the team’s statistical model indicated that Bordeaux’s wine could continue to improve in taste as climate change progresses. As temperatures rise and rainfall patterns shift, the region could experience warmer conditions with less summer rainfall and more winter rainfall – factors that have been linked to higher-quality wine in the past.

However, the study also highlighted the challenges posed by climate change. Increased warming and extreme weather events are significant risks for Bordeaux grapes. Wildfires, which have already impacted France, as well as other Mediterranean wine regions like California and Australia, can introduce smoke flavors into the grapes, negatively affecting the wine’s taste. Furthermore, extreme heat can lead to drought conditions, jeopardizing wine production if grapevines do not receive adequate hydration.

According to Wood, while less water in the summer may be beneficial, there is a threshold that cannot be crossed. Grapevines need some water in the ground to draw on; otherwise, they will die. The challenge lies in determining where this threshold lies. As climate change progresses, wine quality may initially improve but will eventually decline, making the future uncertain for Bordeaux and the entire wine industry.

Already, climate change has caused shifts in harvest dates, affecting the alcohol content and flavor of French wine. Hotter summers have also led to the withering or burning of grapes. It is clear that climate change poses significant risks and uncertainties for the future of wine production. While Bordeaux may currently be benefitting from climate change, there is no guarantee that this trend will continue. Adaptation and resilience will be crucial for winemakers as they navigate the challenges that lie ahead.

Climate change is causing traditional wine-growing regions to shift northwards, according to Kimberly Nicholas, an associate professor of sustainability science at Lund University in Sweden. She describes these changes in the wine industry as “climate change that you can taste”. Unlike many other crops, wine is highly sensitive to climate, and its quality is more important than quantity. As a result, the wine industry has been making adjustments to adapt to the changing climate in four main ways: changing winemaking techniques by adding acids to adjust pH levels, modifying farming practices by increasing irrigation or providing shade, planting vines in rows that are not exposed to direct sunlight, and relocating vineyards to new areas.

Nicholas suggests that although the industry has been successful in adapting to some extent, there are limits to how much they can adapt. She explains that while there is still room for maneuvering, it is important to recognize that the potential for adaptation is not infinite.

In conclusion, climate change is significantly affecting the wine industry, as traditional wine-growing regions are moving northward. The industry has been implementing changes in winemaking methods and farming practices to adapt to the changing conditions. However, it is crucial to acknowledge that there are limits to adaptation.