Take a tour of the 11th arrondissement.

The crowd at Giclette.

Photographer: Elin McCoy

On a chilly Saturday afternoon in Paris three weeks ago, I was drinking a deliciously zingy Loire Valley pét-nat, Vins Hodgson Chalan Polan chenin blanc, alongside a scoop of housemade ice cream poached in olive oil.

I don’t recommend pairing wine and ice cream, but, hey, it’s de rigueur at natural wine bar Folderol, which opened in December 2020 and quickly jumped to fame on TikTok. So much so that the owners, American chef couple Jessica Yang and Robert Compagnon, had to put up a sign outside: No TikTok.