The time between the loading and unloading of Aspen’s Lift 1A may seem brief, but it was sufficient for Greg Van Wagner, a local sommelier, to imagine a wine-making partnership. This vision materialized into reality with the establishment of Ajax Cellars, largely catering to the Roaring Fork Valley over the last 13 years.

Van Wagner expressed his desire to produce unique wines not readily found elsewhere. "It’s wine that’s unique to this valley," he noted. The burgeoning Colorado wine scene is still community-driven, often built on personal connections and trust.

Having once come to Colorado as a sponsored road biker and aspiring Tour de France competitor, Van Wagner fell for wine while working at Frasca in Boulder. When he moved to Aspen in 2012 as the maître d’ at Element 47, he became further entrenched in the local wine community.

His connections with fellow winemakers Joe Bucket and Evan Martin led him to embrace wine production. It was during a chat with Martin, founder of Martin Woods Winery, that Van Wagner was inspired to transition to the production side of wine. Together, they collaborated to blend wines, with Van Wagner championing their distribution in the valley.

Ajax Cellars sources grapes not only from Martin’s Willamette Valley but also from a Riesling vineyard located at 6,300 feet in Dolores, Colorado, the highest Riesling vineyard in North America. Van Wagner also collaborates with a vineyard in Palisade, the heart of Colorado’s wine production. He explained, “When you are in these vineyards and you taste the resulting wine, you can absolutely tell there’s a connection between what’s in the ground and what’s in the glass.”

The wines, under the Maroon Bells label, represent a full-circle moment for Van Wagner, who remains an avid cyclist and finds inspiration in the majestic surrounding landscape.

Van Wagner aims to continue enhancing the quality of his wines while building connections with customers. Martin believes that true power in winemaking goes beyond mere flavor and impact; it’s about creating a lasting impression and emotional connection in those who drink it.

Ajax Cellars wines are available throughout the Roaring Fork Valley at various locations, including Of Grape and Grain, Aspen Wine & Spirits, and The Little Nell.