The village of Chablis is known for its renowned wines, but it is often overlooked compared to the more famous regions of Bourgogne. While Chablis is technically part of Bourgogne, it has its own unique qualities that set it apart. Located northwest of the Côte d’Or, Chablis and its neighboring region of Grand Auxerrois offer exceptional wines at affordable prices.

One family that embodies the dedication to excellence in this region is the Nicolle-Thieblemont family. Charly Nicolle, a seventh-generation winemaker, has a deep connection to the land, describing the Chablis countryside as being “risen from the ancient earth folds where the ocean hid shells and fossil treasures for me to find under my plough when laboring in the spring.” He and his partner, Lucie Thieblemont, have embraced sustainable and organic farming practices, despite the challenges posed by the wet and hot climate of Chablis. Their commitment to quality is reflected in their labels, Domaine Charly Nicolle, Domaine Paul Nicolle, and their partnership in Domaine Lucie Thieblemont.

Another family making waves in Chablis is the Besson family. Adrien and Camille Besson, the fourth generation of winemakers, have taken over the daily operations of Domaine Besson. They have made adjustments to improve the expression of the terroir in their wines, including ceasing bulk sales and increasing aging. By incorporating traditional farming practices, such as planting fruit trees around the vineyards to enhance biodiversity, they have achieved remarkable results. Domaine Besson is now recognized for its award-winning wines and commitment to maintaining the integrity of Chablis.

While Chablis is well-known, its neighboring region of Grand Auxerrois often goes unnoticed. One family that is putting this region on the map is the Bersan family. With a winemaking tradition dating back to 1453, Jean-Francois and his son Pierre-Louis manage 20 hectares of vines, producing wines from the Chablis and Saint Bris appellations. Located atop the limestone strip that spans from the White Cliffs of Dover to Sancerre, Saint-Bris is the only appellation in Bourgogne dedicated to Sauvignon Blanc. The Bersan family seeks to create wines that bring pleasure to the consumer, and their Sauvignon Blanc is a testament to their commitment to quality.

Chablis and Grand Auxerrois may not be as famous as the Côte d’Or, but they offer exceptional wines crafted by passionate and dedicated winemakers. The village of Chablis, with its distinct terroir and historic vineyards, is a treasure waiting to be discovered. So, the next time you’re in the mood for a truly special bottle of wine, remember the village of Chablis and the family-owned wineries that call it home.

Bourgogne, a region known for its soulful wines, is home to a diverse array of grape varieties. From Aligoté to Chardonnay, Pinot Noir to Cesar, and Sauvignon Gris, there is no shortage of love for the wines produced here.

One particular wine, the Bourgogne Cote d’Auxerre Blanc Cuvee Marianne, holds a special significance. Named after Jean-Francois’s daughter, Marianne, who sadly passed away in 2008, this wine is a tribute to her memory. Jean-Francois remarks, “It is not a sad wine because we speak of her through it every day. She is here with us.”

In the northern village appellation of Irancy, brothers Felix and Gabin Richoux of Domaine Félix et Gabin Richoux are experimenting with a unique red wine made from 100% Cesar grapes. Cesar, an ancient grape variety indigenous to the region, presents its own challenges. “Cesar can be vegetative,” explains Richoux. “Its big clusters produce more tannins, and it needs warmer weather to thrive.”

Having taken over their family’s winery, the brothers are committed to preserving their farming legacy. They achieved organic certification in 2013 and embrace biodynamic farming practices. However, they are unable to afford the steep fees associated with Demeter certification. Despite this, they continue to make changes in the production process, such as using manual tanks instead of automatic ones to have better control. They also age their wines longer, with some staying in barrels for up to three years before bottling.

Meanwhile, in the village appellation of Vézelay, Domaine de la Croix Montjoie is bringing a dynamic and exciting energy to the region. While Chardonnay is the only permitted grape variety, some wineries, like Domaine de la Croix Montjoie, also produce Pinot Noir under the AOC Bourgogne Rouge appellation. Occasionally, Cesar and Melon de Bourgogne can also be found here.

Sophie and Matthieu Woillez, the owners of Domaine de la Croix Montjoie, purchased the farm and its 25 hectares of vines in 2009. They chose the name “Croix Montjoie” after the crossroads between Vézelay and Tharoiseau. Their old vines, growing next to the forest, bring freshness to their wines, while the younger vines add expression and depth.

The winery obtained organic certification in 2021, joining a growing number of producers in Vézelay committed to sustainable farming. Despite the challenges posed by the weather, such as the devastating frost that wiped out 80% of their 2021 vintage, the Woillez couple remains positive. Sophie says, “Our appellation may not be a star, but people appreciate our wine, and the price is reasonable.” She takes pride in producing wines that can be enjoyed immediately.

In Bourgogne, where tradition and age are highly regarded, these winemakers are carving their paths and making their mark. They pay homage to the region’s history while embracing innovation and sustainability. With each pour, their wines tell stories of love, loss, commitment, and a shared passion for the land.