The Art of Champagne Dosage at Champagne Billecart-Salmon

Imagine the scene: eight individuals, representing the heart and soul of Champagne Billecart-Salmon, gather in a room to make a decision that will shape the reputation of the esteemed Champagne house. These individuals include four family members across three generations, the head of the vineyards, the assistant chief winemaker, the current chief winemaker, and the former chief winemaker. In total, it took them five months, 250 wine tanks and barrels, and exhaustive note-taking to reach this pivotal moment.

Champagne Billecart-Salmon, rooted in the village of Mareuil-sur-Aÿ in the Champagne region of France since the 16th century, has earned a legendary status among Champagne connoisseurs. Their meticulous practices, coupled with access to top vineyards within Champagne, have solidified their exceptional reputation.

One of the key components that make Billecart-Salmon exceptional is their unique approach to fermentation. Unlike many other Champagne houses, Billecart-Salmon employs a combination of barrels and stainless steel for fermenting their wines. This method preserves the “fruit purity” of the Champagne, while also adding depth and concentration from the barrels. This, paired with their dedication to aging wines and their signature cold fermentation method, implemented in the 1960s, ensures that the Champagne retains its regional identity, bringing out the true essence of the terroir.

Mathieu Roland-Billecart, the current CEO and a seventh-generation member of the Billecart-Salmon family, explains that the cold fermentation process not only preserves the fruit character of the wine but also builds a strong acidic backbone that contributes to freshness and longevity. This practice, passed down through three generations, showcases the family’s commitment to excellence.

Another vital aspect of Billecart-Salmon’s winemaking process is the dosage, the small amount of wine added to each bottle after disgorgement, which is the removal of sediment after the second fermentation. Dosage has long been a topic of discussion in the Champagne industry, as it determines the sweetness level of the final product.

Mathieu Roland-Billecart emphasizes that dosage goes beyond just the sugar content. While Billecart-Salmon has always been known for its low-sugar dosage, it is essential to understand that dosage is about achieving balance. The DNA of Billecart-Salmon is built on finesse, elegance, and balance, with sugar being just one element in the equation.

“Dosage is one of the least understood things in Champagne,” Mathieu asserts. He wants to dispel the notion that high-sugar Champagnes are inherently bad and low-sugar Champagnes are necessarily good. Instead, he believes that balance is the key, and Billecart-Salmon strives to achieve this balance in their dosage.

For Billecart-Salmon, the dosage is a precise art form, carefully crafted to enhance the character of each Champagne while maintaining equilibrium. It is a testament to their dedication to quality and their unwavering commitment to excellence.

So, the next time you raise a glass of Billecart-Salmon Champagne, remember the meticulous decision-making and the artistry that goes into every bottle. From the vineyards to the cellar, every step is driven by passion, tradition, and a relentless pursuit of perfection. Cheers to the art of Champagne dosage and to the legacy of Champagne Billecart-Salmon!

Harmony and balance are the key ingredients to creating a harmonious wine. However, achieving this balance is not always an easy task, even when all the outstanding components are present. Mathieu Roland-Billecart, the CEO of Champagne Billecart Salmon, knows this all too well. He understands that choosing the right pieces for the puzzle is crucial in order to achieve the desired harmony.

One important aspect of creating a harmonious wine is the amount of sugar used. This amount can vary from year to year, adding to the complexity of the puzzle. Additionally, the wine chosen from the numerous wine tanks and barrels also plays a significant role in bringing balance to the final product. For example, if the Billecart-Salmon Brut Réserve is primarily made from wines from the 2018 vintage, it is not simply a matter of adding more 2018 wines to achieve the desired balance. The final addition of wine is the last opportunity to bring the entire blend to its ultimate harmony.

Since taking over as CEO in 2018, Mathieu and his team have dedicated just as much time and effort to perfecting the dosage as they have to the actual blend itself. The dosage, which makes up around 20 milliliters of the bottle, is a crucial step in the winemaking process. For a Champagne house like Billecart-Salmon, known for its finesse, elegance, and balance, this attention to detail is essential. It adds more time and energy to their already meticulous process.

When a new family member takes over the reins of a well-known wine legacy, it is a cause for celebration. Mathieu thought it would be fitting to release their 2008 vintage Champagne wines in 2018, marking Billecart’s bicentenary year. However, as the wines aged on their lees, it became evident that they were not ready to be released. Instead of rushing the process, Mathieu and his team patiently waited until each wine was ready. The 2008 vintage Rosé was released in 2021, followed by another vintage in 2022, and now the Cuvée Nicolas François is released in 2023.

This approach may go against traditional marketing sense, especially during such a significant anniversary. However, it is engrained in the DNA of Billecart-Salmon and Mathieu himself. They prioritize excellence and are willing to invest more time in the winemaking process to achieve it. Mathieu describes the dosage as a “time-consuming artisan approach.” The Billecart-Salmon family has never been concerned with showcasing their cleverness in winemaking; instead, their focus is on providing a remarkable experience to the drinker and highlighting the incredible place they have safeguarded for over five centuries.

In today’s world, traceability and transparency are valued. Each bottle of Billecart-Salmon can be traced using an origin code displayed on the label. By entering this code on the My Origin website, consumers can learn about every aspect of that particular bottle, from the vineyards to the winery and finally, the cellar. This dedication to transparency further demonstrates Billecart-Salmon’s commitment to providing a unique and exceptional experience to each wine lover.

The NV Billecart-Salmon Brut Réserve, for example, is a blend of the 2018 vintage base wine, 46% reserve wines, and a combination of 36% Pinot Meunier, 32% Chardonnay, and 32% Pinot Noir. With a dosage of 7.5 grams per liter, this Champagne exhibits a delightful nose of lemon blossom and a saline minerality. On the palate, it reveals notes of white peach skin, hints of brioche, and an incredible texture with fine bubbles. The wine strikes a perfect balance, offering a touch of weight mid-palate and overall creaminess, finishing with a bright note of lemon.

In conclusion, the art of winemaking requires more than just outstanding components. It demands careful selection, patience, and an unwavering commitment to achieving harmony and balance. Mathieu Roland-Billecart and the team at Champagne Billecart Salmon understand this, and their dedication to excellence shines through in every bottle they produce. Whether it’s by meticulously perfecting the dosage or patiently waiting for the wines to be ready, Billecart-Salmon continues to prioritize quality, ensuring that each sip provides a truly memorable experience.

Title: A Tale of Two Champagnes: 1998 and 2008 Billecart-Salmon Cuvée Nicolas François

Introduction:

In the enchanting world of Champagne, there are certain vintages that stand out, capturing the essence of time and the embodiment of a producer’s legacy. Today, we embark on a journey through the years 1998 and 2008, as we explore two exceptional vintages of Billecart-Salmon Cuvée Nicolas François. Join us as we delve into the story and evolution of these remarkable Champagnes.

The Legendary 1998 Billecart-Salmon Cuvée Nicolas François:

In the year 1998, Cellar Master Mathieu set out on a mission to showcase the incredible longevity that Billecart-Salmon is renowned for. He chose a vintage known for its ripeness and sought to display how the fresh style of Billecart could keep such a vintage vibrant even after 25 years. And indeed, the results were nothing short of extraordinary.

Upon first encounter, the 1998 Cuvée Nicolas François unveils a vivid display of juicy nectarines, intertwined with subtle hints of marzipan and lemon meringue. These flavors dance harmoniously with touches of orange zest and toasted spices on the palate, creating a remarkable fusion of textures. Concentrated with fresh fruit and buoyed by bright acidity, this Champagne leaves a lasting impression with its broad, rich finish and uplifting spirit.

The Sensational 2008 Billecart-Salmon Cuvée Nicolas François:

A decade later, the year 2008 attracted attention as a superstar vintage, known for its exquisite combination of beautiful fruit and high acidity. It is in this vintage that Billecart-Salmon pays homage to its founder with the release of the 2008 Nicolas François, a Champagne that exudes elegance and energy.

With 83% of the wines sourced from stainless steel and the remaining 17% aged in barrel, this cuvée showcases the harmonious marriage of 83% Grand Cru and 17% Premier Cru vineyards. Composed of 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay, this Champagne boasts a dosage of 2.9 grams per liter, perfect for lovers of a balanced and nuanced palate.

As one approaches the 2008 Nicolas François, a delicate invitation of honeysuckle and lemon pastry fills the air, accompanied by subtle background notes of lilacs. Upon tastings, the wine exhibits marked acidity and an intense energy that captivates the senses. The palate experiences a breathtaking journey, guided by a chalky minerality that lingers on the long, expressive finish. Truly, this Champagne is a testament to the artistry and dedication of Champagne Billecart-Salmon.

Conclusion:

Through the prism of time, we have witnessed the evolution and magnificence of Billecart-Salmon Cuvée Nicolas François. The 1998 vintage stands as a testament to the longevity and freshness that characterizes this esteemed Champagne house. Meanwhile, the 2008 iteration showcases the splendor of a superstar year, highlighting beautiful fruit, high acidity, and an enduring legacy.

As we bid farewell to this chapter, let us raise a glass to the visionaries at Billecart-Salmon, who have crafted these remarkable Champagnes, each offering a unique narrative of their own. Cheers to the timeless elegance and unwavering excellence found within a bottle of Billecart-Salmon Cuvée Nicolas François.