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From Insult to Appellation: The Surprising Story of Sparkling Wine in Piedmont, Italy

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The Piedmont region in northwestern Italy is celebrated for its exceptional wines, particularly dry reds like Barolo and Barbaresco, and the sweet sparkling wine, Moscato. However, it has a rich but often overlooked history of producing sparkling dry wines.

In the early 1600s, a jeweler-turned-winemaker named Giovanni Battista Croce pioneered a sparkling wine made from Nebbiolo grapes, praised for its unique characteristics. Notably, Thomas Jefferson, prior to his presidency, found the sparkling quality of Piedmont’s Nebbiolo impressive when he visited Turin in 1787. He likened it to a hybrid of Madeira, Bordeaux, and Champagne. Additionally, the esteemed author Stendhal acknowledged Asti’s sparkling wine in his 1838 novel.

By the early 1900s, Piedmont’s sparkling wines were showcased at the Universal Exhibition in Paris, indicating a growing recognition. In the 1930s, Asti Spumante gained prominence both in Italy and abroad, eventually featuring in royal weddings, such as that of Umberto of Savoy in 1930.

Today, the Alta Langa designation represents a high-quality appellation of sparkling white and rosé wines from southern Piedmont, crafted using the classical two-fermentation method. These wines, made primarily from Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grapes grown at least 250 meters above sea level, must adhere to strict DOCG regulations. This includes a minimum vineyard density and a maximum yield, alongside a mandatory aging period on lees of 30 months.

The establishment of the Alta Langa appellation stems from a phone call on January 18, 1990, where winery owner Ottavio Riccadonna and oenologist Ugo Conti expressed their determination to challenge the perceived exclusion of Piedmont wines from the classical method of sparkling wine production. In subsequent meetings, they rallied support from seven key producers, forming a coalition dedicated to promoting this forgotten tradition, leading to the establishment of the Alta Langa consortium and its eventual recognition in 2002.

The formation of Alta Langa DOCG significantly transformed the Piedmont wine landscape. Many local producers take pride in its success, highlighting its quality during tastings and food pairings.

The sparkling wines from Alta Langa showcase a vibrant and harmonious quality, often presenting tropical fruit aromas like guava and pineapple, alongside complex flavors that evoke a satisfying richness, perfect for culinary pairings. Alta Langa continues to be a symbol of elegance and tradition, inviting enthusiasts to explore its depths alongside the celebrated reds and sweet Moscato of the region.

For more comprehensive tasting notes and evaluations, visit my Vino Voices website.

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November 24, 2024 Wine
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