Unlocking the Essence of Terroir: A Winemaker’s Journey

In the vast expanse of Sonoma County, California, lies a vineyard that dared to challenge the prevailing norms of wine cultivation. What seemed like a radical idea at the time stirred controversy among the well-respected names in the wine world. John Hamel, the winemaker and director of winegrowing at Hamel Family Wines, posed a simple question: can we dry farm in Sonoma County?

The response was a resounding chorus of “You will make worse wines!” Irrigation had long been considered a necessary practice to ensure healthy grape bunches, but John was not convinced. He recognized the importance of water conservation and had already adopted a thoughtful approach to irrigation, only watering the vineyards when necessary. However, he couldn’t shake the feeling that a greater quality could be achieved by understanding how to manage the unique properties of his land.

Seeking inspiration and guidance, John reached out to Dominus, a prestigious winery in Napa Valley known for its success with dry farming. The technical director welcomed the opportunity to share their knowledge and experiences, shedding light on the tremendous effort and vigilance required for dry farming. Undeterred by the challenges that lay ahead, John made a firm resolution to unlock the full potential of his vineyards.

John’s journey began years before, when his parents purchased a property in Sonoma with a small vineyard as a retreat from the bustling city life. As he pursued his passion for slow, organic food and attended college, the family embarked on a small-scale winemaking venture. John went on to work on organic farms and eventually found himself in Napa’s Mount Veeder, where he cultivated impressive Cabernet Sauvignon vineyards. Yet, the allure of returning to the land persisted, leading him to Hamel Family Wines.

Armed with a winemaking certificate from UC Davis, John dedicated himself to the study of winemaking and winegrowing. In 2017, he officially assumed the responsibilities of winemaking and vineyard management. But his aim was never to take the easiest path towards crafting high-quality wines. Instead, he embraced an unwavering commitment to leave no stone unturned in his pursuit of perfection, even if its realization remained elusive in his lifetime.

As he delved into the intricacies of his vineyards, the notion of terroir puzzled John. The French concept, which refers to the expression of place in a wine, intrigued him. He enlisted the help of experts to analyze the soil composition, but their findings offered little clarity on how it translated into the character of the wine itself. Frustration mounted until 2014 when he stumbled upon an interview with Pedro Parra, a renowned Chilean terroir expert.

Parra’s words resonated with John like no others had before. Finally, he heard someone speak with clarity and depth about terroir. Parra’s expertise, grounded in a PhD from the Paris Center of Agriculture, provided the missing piece of the puzzle. Inspired by this newfound understanding, John set out to unlock the essence of terroir in his own wines.

Through relentless study and hands-on experimentation, John Hamel embarked on a journey that embraced the challenges of dry farming and sought to reveal the unique personality of his vineyards. With each passing vintage, he endeavored to express the very soul of Sonoma County in every sip.

As Hamel Family Wines continued to thrive, John’s determination and unwavering commitment paid off. His bold decision to explore dry farming challenged the conventional wisdom of the wine world and served as a testament to the power of innovation and perseverance. Today, Hamel Family Wines stands as a testament to what can be achieved when one is willing to defy expectations and unlock the true potential of the land.

In the ever-evolving world of winemaking, John Hamel’s story serves as a reminder that the pursuit of excellence requires not only a deep understanding of one’s craft but also a willingness to embrace change and challenge tradition. And it is through these endeavors that the true essence of terroir is unveiled, one vineyard at a time.

Taking a Leap of Faith in the Vineyards

Pedro, a renowned consultant who had spent years providing his expertise to wineries across France and the world, unexpectedly received a call from John. Intrigued by the curiosity emanating from John’s voice, Pedro decided to visit the vineyards in Sonoma to learn more about his intentions.

As Pedro walked through the vineyards, he noticed the defining characteristic of these landscapes: volcanic soils, specifically basalt. Sitting down to talk, John expressed his admiration for Pedro’s work and his desire to understand the intricacies of winemaking on a deeper level. Pedro sensed John’s passion and made a bet on him, entrusting him with his knowledge and guidance.

Using his experience and expertise, Pedro conducted various tests in the vineyards. These tests allowed him to create detailed maps, dividing each vineyard into small plots based on numerous factors. This newfound understanding of the vineyards opened up a world of possibilities for John.

John realized that managing each section of the vineyard differently was key to optimizing their potential. With this profound understanding, John became successful in dry farming, a practice that focuses on minimizing water usage. In 2017, he began dry farming 20% of the vineyards, and by 2018, this number had risen to an impressive 75%. Today, depending on the vintage, the vineyards approach 70% to upper 70% dry farming.

One of John’s secrets to dry farming success lies in encouraging the vines to develop deep roots. By restricting water supply, the vines are pushed to send their roots deeper into the soil. This, in turn, results in a more extensive and prolific root system, which enhances the quality of the wines produced.

John revealed that one unexpected benefit of dry farming was the ability to harvest more balanced grapes. Balancing sugar and phenolic maturation in California’s climate can be a challenge. Sugar ripeness, which contributes to alcohol content and flavor development, often increases at a faster rate than phenolic ripeness. Typically, winemakers mitigate this issue by adding water or acid to the grapes. However, John found that dry farming allowed the grapes to reach an ideal balance naturally. The phenolic maturation occurred at a quicker pace, preventing sugar levels from climbing too high and acidity levels from dropping too low.

Furthermore, John observed that the water deficit caused by dry farming redirected the plant’s energy from vegetative growth to fruit maturity. Remarkably, even in 2021, a year of historically low rainfall, with only 12 inches compared to the typical 28 inches, John’s vineyards thrived. In fact, the 2021 vintage ranks among the top two best vintages he has experienced in the past decade. The success of this challenging year has solidified John’s confidence in dry farming as the best practice for his vineyards.

John’s story showcases the power of knowledge, innovation, and taking risks. By embracing Pedro’s expertise and adopting dry farming techniques, John has not only achieved remarkable success but also discovered a newfound harmony between his vineyards and the grapes they produce.

From a Cow Horn to Biodynamic Practices: A Journey of Discovery

John has been farming his vineyards using biodynamic practices for several years now. He even received certification in 2015. However, he couldn’t help but feel that he and his team were just going through the motions without fully understanding the meaning behind each step. This lack of understanding made him worry that he wasn’t utilizing these practices correctly.

In his quest for knowledge, John reached out to a well-known woman in the biodynamic wine world, Corinne Comme, who is based in Bordeaux. Corinne took the time to explain the essential nature of each step and introduced him to techniques that were better suited for his vineyards. John quickly realized that while biodynamic practices had originated in northern Europe under Rudolf Steiner, adjustments needed to be made to find a balance within California’s wine region. Following Germany’s practices blindly wouldn’t work; instead, he needed to find harmony with the natural surroundings.

As a result, John began exploring the use of native plants traditionally used by indigenous people in California for future treatments of his vines. He understood that these plants were primarily used for homeopathic purposes for people and may not have a direct correlation to managing crops, but he was willing to take on the challenge for the next decade. He believed that understanding these plants better could add another layer to the expression of terroir, or a sense of place, in his wines.

Reflecting on a visit to France in 2015, John recalled a meeting with Anselme Selosse, a legendary figure in the Champagne world. He shared his excitement about the energy he put into his vineyards, only to be met with a surprising comment from Anselme. Upon learning that John irrigated his vineyards, Anselme compared his efforts to having potted plants in the field, implying a lack of connection to the terroir. At first, John dismissed the comment, thinking that it was impossible not to irrigate in California. But as time went on, he couldn’t shake the notion that Anselme might be onto something.

This remark sparked John’s interest in dry farming, a practice that relies solely on natural rainfall and eliminates the need for irrigation. He realized that while Hamel Family Wines already possessed all the necessary elements for producing exceptional wines, including beautiful vineyards and state-of-the-art winemaking facilities, the missing piece might be aligning more closely with the natural conditions of the local terroir.

The journey towards dry farming is not an easy one, as California’s climate poses unique challenges. However, John is determined to investigate and implement alternative practices that better match his vineyards’ specific conditions. He understands that achieving perfection in expressing terroir requires constant learning, experimentation, and adaptation.

As John continues to push the boundaries of winemaking, the future of Hamel Family Wines becomes increasingly intriguing. The recent update of their wine labels reflects the tremendous work that John and his team have put into their vineyards to ensure that their wines truly embody a sense of place.

With each step forward, John strives not to blindly follow any philosophy but to gain a deep understanding of how different theories work and their actual results. He is far from complacent with his current achievements. The possibilities for finding new, more applicable ways to practice biodynamics in California are endless, and only time will reveal the full extent of his exploration.

If there’s one thing we can be sure of, it’s that Hamel Family Wines is a name worth keeping an eye on. With their unwavering commitment, dedication to understanding the land, and unyielding pursuit of perfection, they are on a journey to redefine what it means to express terroir in California.

– What an experience! The 2019 Hamel Family Wines from the Nuns Canyon Vineyard in Sonoma County, California, is truly a masterpiece. This wine combines intense minerality with an elegant tannic structure, creating a captivating sensory experience.

Starting with the palate, this wine offers a burst of juicy cassis flavors that invigorates the taste buds. The rich taste of black cherry compote takes center stage, while a subtle saline minerality adds a unique twist to the overall profile.

But the complexity of this wine doesn’t stop there. As you delve deeper into the glass, you’ll discover multifaceted notes of tree bark, iron, and even hints of jasmine. These elements contribute to the wine’s depth and intrigue, making each sip a new adventure for the senses.

The tannins in this wine are finely etched, providing a smooth and velvety texture. This, combined with an overall energetic quality, gives the wine a sense of vitality that dances on the palate.

As you savor the last sip, you’ll notice a concentrated finish that lingers on the tongue, leaving behind lingering aromas of dried wildflowers. It’s a gentle reminder of the journey you’ve just experienced, inviting you to come back for more.

It’s important to note that this exceptional wine is a blend of 78% Cabernet Sauvignon and 22% Cabernet Franc, with all the grapes sourced exclusively from the Nuns Canyon Vineyard. This speaks to the meticulous attention to detail that the Hamel Family Wines team dedicates to their craft.

In conclusion, the 2019 Hamel Family Wines from the Nuns Canyon Vineyard is a true gem. Its intense minerality, elegant tannic structure, and multifaceted flavors create an unforgettable experience for wine enthusiasts. Whether you’re a seasoned connoisseur or just starting your wine journey, this bottle is sure to leave a lasting impression. So, grab a glass, sit back, and let yourself be enchanted by the magic of this extraordinary wine. Cheers!