Swapping their state-enforced veils for T-shirts reading “life” and “liberty”, a daring group of Iranian women who have found sanctuary in France are now contributing to the creation of wine deeply rooted in ancient Persia. Their journey has been nothing short of extraordinary, filled with hardship, danger, and determination.

One of these remarkable women is Marjan Jangjoo, formerly a sports coach teaching aerial yoga and snowboarding in Iran. Last November, she was forced to flee after security forces came to arrest her. With only the clothes on her back, Jangjoo embarked on a treacherous journey through snowy mountains, enduring unimaginable challenges. Eventually, she reached the Kurdish-controlled region of northern Iraq, where she received support from people in France who helped plead her case to the French consulate in Erbil, eventually leading to her asylum in France.

In France’s western Dordogne region, Jangjoo and her companions have found solace in the vineyards. They are fighting to uphold their ancient wine-making traditions, which have faced significant obstacles under the Iranian regime. Soodeh Lashkarizadeh, one of Jangjoo’s friends, explained that the Iranian government seeks to destroy the happiness associated with activities like dancing, sports, and drinking wine. The repression against sportspeople in Iran is particularly severe, as they serve as role models for many working-class young people who are able to identify with them. Chowra Makaremi, an Iranian-born anthropologist at France’s National Centre for Scientific Research (CNRS), supports Jangjoo’s journey and emphasizes the importance of sport as a vehicle for transmitting values.

The women find sanctuary on the vineyard of Masrour Makaremi, brother of Chowra Makaremi, where they actively contribute to the harvest. The vineyard boasts Syrah grapes, a variety closely associated with France’s Rhone valley but said to have been brought back from Persia during the crusades. The winemaking process is closely aligned with ancient Persian traditions, utilizing terracotta amphoras for fermentation and sealing them with a natural resin derived from pistachio trees. Notably, the vineyard also houses an amphora dating back to the last Persian dynasty before the Arab conquest in the seventh century. Masrour Makaremi acquired this relic through an auction and uses it to ferment a small portion of the wine, adding a historical depth to the beverage.

For Makaremi, winemaking represents an act of resistance intertwined with the revival of Persian culture. He sees the women working in the vineyard as part of the same fight that claimed his mother’s life when she was executed in 1988. Makaremi and his sister later joined their father in exile in the French city of Limoges. However, his memories of walking among the vines with his grandmother in his hometown of Shiraz, where the ancient wine tradition thrived, continue to fuel his passion for winemaking. Despite the current suppression of protests within Iran, sparked by the death of Mahsa Amini, Makaremi holds on to hope that someday he will be able to plant new vines in his homeland. If not, he hopes his children will carry on the legacy.

The story of these Iranian women and their fight for freedom and cultural preservation through winemaking is incredibly inspiring. It is a testament to the resilience and determination of individuals facing persecution, and a reminder of the power of culture and tradition to connect us to our roots. Their journey symbolizes hope for a brighter future and the enduring spirit of the human will.